Hugh

Nope, thats him in the EVO9 MR taking me down in the last run. My best run of the night was against the white EVO. I ran the 9.166 against his redlighted 9.008. Not bad for a 34 year old raggedy car with no drivetrain... I think.

Here's the streetfire link: Click here to see Video Or you can download the Mpeg in high quality here: Right Click, Save As

Thanks for that! Nice pics and writeup.

OK, use the top connection on the blow off valve to connect to the intake manifold. It's as simple as that. If you can, isolate the wastegate on its own vacuum line just to smooth things out. Having this stuff all hooked together could be causing your boost dropping problem. It's best if your line for the wastegate comes from the intercooler piping somewhere, preferably the hot side just outside of the compressor. Here's a diagram of a properly setup blow off valve: And here's an example of an isolated wastegate setup: Notice how its out there all on it's own... nothing to mess with it. If your turbo doesnt have a fitting, just go from the intercooler pipe.

Wow, that would be a tough problem to diagnose. Definitely falls into the "visual inspection" stages of the troubleshooting. Heh heh Glad you got it running. If you need timing help, use the service manual. I've got them on my site in the tech section for download. ( http://www.zeroyon.com )

I imagine the engine work done would reduce mileage a lot, but like you said... driving out of boost, you can keep mileage up. Horespower takes fuel to make. Even a 400hp SR20DET is using a buttload of fuel while boosting. The fuel saved is only saved when you're not boosting. The trick is to drive daily without mashing the gas pedal. (good luck on that one, its tough to stay out of the throttle) I found with my last build that after upgrading to a huge turbo setup, my mileage went way up! The reason for this? Well... when you spool 20psi on T04S, you find yourself rocketing down the street at a ridiculous rate. This becomes extremely dangerous, and therefore you stop doing it. I found that I would drive to and from work daily without boosting more than once or twice. Some days I would get to work, look at the peak boost on my AVC-R, and it would say 0.2 or something like that. I started getting decent mileage, and it was nice. Whenever I felt the need for speed, however... punch that throttle and watch the boost gauge swing... and hold on to your shorts! Same applies for this Corvette, too. Except hold onto your tongue, you might choke on it!

I have no plans for all digital. I have the Apexi El Series 2 gauges with the controller box. (peak, record, etc... in one unit) I wish Apexi would make a speedometer to match their 5" tach, and I'd get that. Otherwise I'm looking for a matching tach and speedometer. (most likely Autometer) I like an analog tach, for sure. It helps me a lot when drag racing. I don't like shift lights, either. So my plan is to run the Apexi gauges for EGT, Boost, and Fuel Pressure along the three stock holes, then mount my digital displays all down in the center as 280Zforce's car is. Down there will be the Blitz Racing Meter that shows oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, and boost... then the AVC-R, and the Apexi turbo timer. Everything will be digital down there, analog in the stock holes.

MSA really needs to update their catalog pics with on-car shots. (of owners' cars)

Thats just what I need, then. I just read about it on their site... says it works with virtually any sending unit. Sweet. I just found my fuel gauge!! Now I gotta choose between red or blue... damn. I wonder if the blue would match well with the AVC-R down there.

Hey... electronics are funky like that. One thing might act differently in your car than the next guy's.. It's worth a shot to unplug the MAF real quick and see what happens. Have you pulled the plugs to look at them yet? Make sure you're not flooding the motor and then trying to change things to get it started. You might find the fix, but its flooded so it doesn't start. Obviously you should smell some fuel in the exhaust (especially if you have no cat on the car) and that would tell you its flooding. To flush out the fuel, I usually pull the fuel pump fuse and run the car til it dies. (or just turn it over for a few seconds in your case... so long as the plugs can fire, they should clean themselves up)

Yep, suits your car very well. I got a look at your ride when it was sitting at Vildini. You may have seen my car in there during the same time frame. Maybe one of these days we'll run into eachother over there. (meet, not hit cars... heh) Which gauge is the fuel level, and does it work with the stock sending unit?

Wow, that T88 is a BIG turbo. My friend has one he plans to run on his 3-rotor RX7. (to oblivion RPM, I suppose) He let me hold the turbo, and I was in awe. Yeah, you can't be the fastest guy out there. There's always somebody faster.

Umm... the 89-90 KA is supposed to have a MAF that puts out the same signal. It's not ideal for performance, but so long as you wire it correctly you would know if that fixed it. If you wire it wrong, you will probably burn up the ECU, so be careful with that. Anyway, yes. I've seen a car not fire because of a bad maf signal. Try unplugging the MAF altogether and starting it. This should put the ECU in limp mode, and allow it to run up to about 1500rpm. I once idled my car for a long time with no MAF hooked up. (to keep power brakes while being towed after twisting the output shaft on the transmission off)

Its possible your coolant temp sensor is bad. I've seen it happen before.

In the very first video when the thing started and then stalled... I laughed so hard I almost spit my drink on the keyboard. That's what hooked me into watching the rest of your videos. Thanks for the update. Cool video, as usual.

Ouch! Thats too bad. I guess its not just me that gets nailed by everyone in my Z. I figured they thought it was such a POS they didn't care... but with your car so clean, you'd think people would care. Bastards.

I've never heard that before. Are a lot of people complaining about this? Usually any tune using the stock ECU will not be effected by warmup issues. The reason is that tuners don't touch that part of the computer. Are you having issues with it taking too long to warm up or something? Is your radiator fan running full time from the get-go?

Yep, pretty close. The main differences are in the idle air control area. The basics should be pretty much the same.

It's direct ignition though. For the ingnition to be firing, the CAS signal has to get to the ECU, and then from the ECU back to the ignitor. Thats what makes me speculate the ECU is ok. If you had someone else's handy, its worth swapping just to see. But its also less likely for an ECU to corrode from sitting.

Thats pretty weird... he's got fuel, clicking injectors, firing spark plugs... but no cylinders firing? OK, the MAF could need to be cleaned or replaced. I've seen that happen before. If his car sat for 5 months, the MAF could've easily corroded to the point where it doesn't work now. Remove the MAF, spray the element with brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner. Brake parts cleaner is nice for a MAF because it dries out quickly. This problem puzzled us for hours one day until we swapped MAF's with a friend's SR and it fired right up.

There is a major difference in the wiring of an ammeter and a voltage meter. The ammeter was wired inline, meaning it broke the circuit of the power wire headed into the car. The voltmeter just taps into the continuous line and reads voltage off the line referenced to ground. So, on the ammeter, both connections go to the split main power. On a voltmeter, one goes to the power which is not split, the other goes to ground. Don't know if this helps, just taking a shot.

Wow, thats wide. To the point where its distorting the lines of the Z. I think its tough, but not pretty. I'd rather tuck the wheels a little.

Yeah, I put the illuminas on 5 when I wasn't daily driving my Z. Now I put them on 3 to take it easy on my bones/teeth/back when going over bumps. 3 is nice, 5 is sweet. But 5 is little abusive.

I loved using my friend's nibbler. Fastest, smoothest way through sheet metal. Watch out for those little scrap pieces, like stated above.

I'm always thinking in turbo terms... but in an NA application, do you need to taper the plenum towards the ends? Less air has to pass the ends of the plenum, and velocity needs to be kept up there, right? Or is that strictly for boosted engines?