Bartman

It all depends on what you want. I think that a setup for the dragstrip may not be the best setup for a track or street car. JTR designed a setup that puts the motor further back and lower for better weight distribution and handling. You don't have to buy their "kit", you can make your own mounts using their templates (or even using your own design). Most people prefer the "JTR" engine placement, and that's what most people are going with on their SBC swaps.

Unless these are something new, they only work in the Scarab mounting position. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114388

Aren't these for the Scarab mounting position? I thought they wouldn't work with the JTR setup.

I would, but with the double roller it won't go back on. I'd have to change the height of the cam dowel and the cam gear doesn't have the spline shaft for the old opti drive pin. I was hesitant to replace the opti, but everything else seems to check out okay and with over 50,000 miles on the old unit it can't hurt. I should sell my genuine GM low mileage non-vented opti to help offset the cost.

Looks great! Is this your strip only setup, or are you going to run these all the time? I couldn't find the size you posted on the Hoosier website, the closest I could find were some Vintage & Historic 26.5 x 9.5-15. Which model and size are they? Is the rim 8" wide"?

I think John's kit is really the only way to go for an LS1 install, but from what I've heard I would stick with the JTR setup for a non LS1 install. The JTR setup is cheaper, has better placement, and has better documentation. You have several options for the transmission mount, but I think the JTR one works just fine. BTW - Welcome to HybridZ edit: Here's a thread by dat240zg who tried John's kit, you may want to contact him to see what he thinks of it...he may have swtiched to the JTR setup now. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112471

Off hand the only relays I can think of (without AC) are the ones for the fans (primary and secondary) and the fuel pump. You need the wiring diagram and figure out which PCM pins are supposed to control what(i.e. - A11 for cooling fan). You can then trace the wire from this PCM location and find out where the other end of the wire is located at. This link may help: http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ltx-lsx/176800-lt1-wiring-dummies.html

Okay, I'll give it a shot. I don't think anything you listed needs a relay. The pink wires sound like they need 12V ignition positive from your new fuse block. The check engine wire needs to go with an ignition hot to a light you probably want somewhere on your dash (it sends ground to activate the light). The knock sensor wire goes between the knock sensor on your block and the PCM, I think the VSS output goes from a connector that connects to your transmission to the PCM, and I don't think you need to use the evap solenoid. That's not everything you listed, but it's a start. I still strongly recommend getting the FSM or signing up for alldata.

Hey Tim, long time no hear. Like that240guy stated I put in an older unit when I switched everything over to the later vented style (I wanted to go with a double roller when I upgraded the top end). Now I'm getting a new opti and to make sure fuel isn't the problem I'm installing a fuel pressure gauge as well.

Glad to hear a recommendation for the Accel since that's what I ordered. The Dynaspark does seem to be the best solution, but for my application I can't justify the price.

You can definitely wire everything yourself, but you need the proper wiring diagrams (along with alot of patience). If you can get a copy of the Factory Service Manual covering the donor car, it will be a big help. I did pretty much what you are doing (with some help from the previous owner), and it just takes some time and investigation. On my car the fans and the fuel pump are activated by a ground wire coming from the PCM. You just need to figure out which wires these are and use them to activate relays (it's relatively easy to wire a relay so that it sends out power based on a negative signal). I used a Painless fuse block for my constant hot and ignition hot PCM wires, but you could conceivably use wires from your Datsun (if you're really hurtng for cash). http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRF%2D70103&N=700+4294843320+115&autoview=sku Good Luck.

Congrat's on getting her running and on the road. Very nice looking and clean setup.

I just looked at the eBay listing for the Opti I installed and it had about 52,000 miles on it, so even if the Opti isn't the problem it sure wouldn't hurt to get a new one anyway. I've got one on order and I'll post up the results.

I think I'm just going to go ahead and buy a new opti. I read on another forum that the optical sensor can come apart and still create spark, but it would be random. It is getting spark, but it doesn't seem to be timed right...so this could explain the problem. Mine has quite a few miles on it anyway...so what the heck.

I'm getting spark at the plugs and I had the computer programmed for me. I can communicate with the PCM using DataMaster (unless I'm cranking the engine), and it was running fine before it died on the freeway.

Something like this?

Water will get in, but they're located in areas that will not have a problem with that. The water would pretty much just fall to the road below between the engine and the frame rails. They are M3 Fender vents. I have the M3 emblems that I'm thinking of installing and changing to say 570Z. The current paint scheme idea is for black on the top and blue on the sides.

I got a couple of hood vents a while back and I've got them placed in my hood a few weeks ago. The thought was to help hot air escape from the engine compartment, but whether they work or not I like the look anyway. They still need some more work, but these pic's should give you a general idea of how it will look.

Could the opti be bad even though it passed all the opti and spark tests?

I put the MAP Sensor back in it's original location with no change. I've also checked the continuity of the coil and it checked out fine. In addition I checked that one of the injectors is getting power on one side and the negative is pulsing properly on the other. Nothing is pointing to any type of electrical problem at this point. I know my injector is getting the proper signal, how do I know it's actually working properly? I'm also waiting for my presure gauge to make sure that the pressure is in range, otherwise I'm kinda running out of ideas. Any more ideas?

Good to see you and your son as well Van. A show is a good place to see other like minded people, talk about cars, and see what other people are doing. I don't mind not winning anything, in fact I didn't deserve to win anything either. For some reason my voting card only had like five categories to vote on even though there were many more awards given out. Making voting only for registered drivers is not what I would consier to be people's choice either, and I think your observation regarding voting is a good one. BTW - When are you going to bring this car you posted pic's of a while back http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113341?

One more thing. The last thing I did before the car show was put on a dress top plate which required me to move the MAP sensor. It is now connected to a vacuum port (that was previously capped) on the intake and the old hole is sealed with a plastic cap that came with the top plate. How can I test the MAP and could anything related to this cause this problem? I could move this back for testing purposes.

I got spark at both a spark plug wire and the coil. I don't have a good reference to use, but it looked a little weak to me. When I tested the spark with my test light at the coil it was able to arc from about an inch away (which I think is normal) I did the voltage checks as part of the shbox opti and spark test and I got over 10 volts DC at both terminals. I also got between 1 and 4 volts ac from terminal B while cranking the engine.