Bartman

Looks great! Can't see the pearl in the pic's, but it looks nice and smooth with a good high luster.

Good job! I gotta get mine ready and take her to the strip one of these days. Where was that at?

The ebay seller is awsinc and he has a web site of cartoka.com. Just search for "4 LED blue 168" to find the right lights. The 4 led lights fit perfect and 168 is the type of bulb. If you're willing to buy from Hong Kong, you can get them even cheaper (that's what HK, US stands for), but I'd rather get them from the state of Washington. The steering wheel is an eBay special, and yes I hooked up the horn to one of the buttons.

Here's a couple of quick pic's: Starting lining everything with the doors sounds like a very good plan, and no I didn't realize that the hinges actually allow fore and aft adjustment. As always, thanks for all the help!

I installed an Autometer ultra-lite speedo and tach in my car a while back and then I installed electroluminescent faces on my stock gauges that fairly closely matched the look of the Autometer gauges (at least during the day). The problem was they looked very different at night. To make it even worse I just installed a stereo with blue lights, and my wife and I decided that I needed to make my Autometer's light up blue as well. I searched around and found out that Autometer sold these little blue condom looking caps to make their lights shine blue. I bought these and installed them, but they looked more green than blue, and just kinda overall looked bad (the carpet dash pad will be replaced soon). Unsatisfied I kept searching around until I found out that you can install blue LED lights. Autometer sells those as well, but the want like $12 a piece. I kept looking around and finally figured out I could buy the LED lights I needed on eBay for about $2 a piece. Well I installed them tonight, and now I'm very happy with the results. What do you think?

The headers I have are the ThermalTech coated #T8019C which are the Patriot PTE-H8019 from Summit Racing. They are made for angled plugs and the port shape is oval even though the ThermalTech web site lists it as 'D' shaped. Quite a few people are using this model without frame or steering linkage problems. BTW: Look at this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103407

They would probably limit your opening too much, but the lights from a Cutlass like this look like they would fit. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-Oldsmobile-Cutlass-Supreme-SL_W0QQitemZ120050445664QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6405QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I called my wife on her cell...and what do you know she was inside Walmart. She bought two as well; one for me and one for my daughter.

(Super)Dan, you are appreciated! So much so I have a beer here at my house with your name on it. Let me know if you want to drop by and have a couple.

I think the answer to your specific question is that the turn signal lever sends positive to the flasher and the flasher sends positive to the signals. I don't recall my turn signal flasher having 5 terminals...but maybe it does. I seem to recall the turn signal flasher not being the same as the hazard flasher.

I've been working on my body panels and I think I have the front all lined up correctly now (cowl, hood, inspection panels, fenders, etc.). The problem I have now is with my passenger door. It's too far back so that the gap between the door and the rear quarter panel is very tight and there is a big space between the door and the front fender. If it was the other way around I could put in some shims to move the door back, but how can I get it to move forward? I can take some picture if that will help.

I run the same headers with my LT1 angle plug heads without any problems. They are actually the same Patriot headers that you can get elsewhere (Including Summit Racing).

Maybe we need to have some sort of intervention for all us HybridZ addicts...or maybe that's what the "outage" was really all about. I was going through withdrawals so bad I had to go to some other Z sites.

I just used the search on "5205" and found at least a couple of people using those headers...nullbound and dr hunt to name a couple. You should talk with them and see how well they work. edit: it looks like you probably already looked through those posts...hope they work out well for your application. Post up some pic's when you get them installed.

Actually, I did exactly that in order to get my tank installed. Here's a link to a web page that has some info and pictures. http://mysite.verizon.net/bzandbergen/LS1FuelTank.htm

It wouldn't work with the LS1 tank...it takes pretty much all the available room front to back. What it buys you is room on either side for the duals.

I don't have measurements off hand, but I think it would work. My mufflers are sort of an oblong shape with the exhaust exiting on the bottom. You could either get a mufler with a center exit to raise it up some, or turn it 180 degrees to have the exit at the top.

Your other option is to use a gas tank from a different vehicle. Myself and a few others used nylon tanks form LS1 f-bodies, and Dan Juday used one from a Suzuki Samurai. Edit: I added a pic of my duals. I know some people don't like the tips, but my kids like it and it works for me as well.