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Bartman

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Everything posted by Bartman

  1. As far as removing emissions, most people remove the EGR. My system was running only idlers and the alternator, but in order to make it work the power steering pump was gutted to serve as an idler (I've since added the AC compressor back into the system). The stock water pump is driven off the cam, so getting an electric unit doesn't affect your belt routing; although it should give you a couple of ponies and will allow you to switch to a true double roller some time in the future (which I did as well). I'm running the JTR radiator with a Taurus fan, and it's working really well.
  2. Well I removed the IAC valve from the throttle body and it would not move one iota while cycling the ignition. I'll have to buy another valve and see if that solves my problem. Rock Auto has AC Delco units for $59.79 and an aftermarket unit for $52.79...not sure if the AC Delco unit is any better, but it's not too much price difference.
  3. I've been doing a lot of research on the IAC and here's the way I think it works: First Here's a diagram of an IAC circuit on shbox.com http://shbox.com/1/iac2.jpg If this is correct, this may confirm how I think the IAC works. Somewhere in the throttle body a small amount of airflow is diverted to the IAC. The amount of air that makes it through the IAC is determine by how much the pintel is open. The air that flows through the hole between the throttle blades is not restricted by the throttle body IAC circuit(the same amount of air will flow through regardless of the pintel setting in the IAC controller); but it will use the special IAC passages in the intake manifold. Now, I still haven't found where the air actually enters and leaves the IAC circuit in the throttle body and I've had it apart a couple of times. Maybe someone can tell me where these passages are? I have a pretty healthy cam in my engine and the idle is a little on the low side. If I crack the throttle blades a little, the idle goes up but I don't think this is the right way to raise the idle. If the engine needs more air at idle I think it should be via the IAC passages in the intake manifold and not the main plenum (better distribution to all cylinders). If the IAC counts are high at idle, I think the best way to compensate is to increase the size of the hole between the throttle blades, which delivers the air using the IAC intake manifold passages. Please let me know if I'm correct in my theory or not.
  4. I agree with you...I don't like the g-nose front end either. There are quite few people who do like them, and you can probably find someone who would be willing to buy your g-nose. Finding a stocker front end will be pretty easy, so I would just sell yours, get a stock front end and have a couple of extra dollars to buy other Z goodies.
  5. Mike, Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Do you have a navicular fracture? I've had one in the past, and I spent four months in a cast. They let the fingers stick out, but the thumb was encased as well as most of the forearm until just below the elbow.
  6. This is not the kind of post I would expect from a HybridZ member. Maybe you're confused and thought you were at a different site?
  7. The LT4 hot cam kit is a good deal, and there are a few people at this site that are running with it. I would think you would be close the 300 hp your wanting with this kit and maybe a couple of other improvements (programming out emissions, shorty headers, cold air intake, and possibly higher rated injectors). Depending what your goals are with the turbo, you can probably get a cam that would work better with it. I would think that if you put out all the money for a turbo system, you would want your engine to be setup to make use of what it can do for you. I would figure out what you want your engine to be in the long run, and then purchase the items that will get you there. You can waste a lot of money buying things like a cam and then finding out you want a different one later.
  8. I'm not a paint expert, but usually you don't color sand until the paint job is completely finished (all base and clear coats). When your color sanding, your actually sanding the clear coat and you don't want to sand through to the color (base) coats.
  9. It looks pretty good, but $2500 sounds like a lot of money for what you're getting. Maybe Z's without much rust are worth more on the right coast, I would think something like that would be around $1000 here in Southern California.
  10. frank280zx is using them, or something very similar.
  11. Looks great! Keep us updated with your progress and info on when and where you're racing.
  12. No, don't put them on your Z...but show me how I can put them on mine.
  13. The JTR radiator is aluminum with plastic side tanks. You can read about it here, and yes it is available direct from JTR. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V8-chapters/V8-DatsunZ-Cooling-System.pdf https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Datsun_Order.html I'm using one on my install and so far it works great.
  14. A couple of questions for you if you don't mind. First, did you get your swap CARB approved? If not, how will you deal with it the next time you need an inspections...if so, did you run into any major issues getting the approval? Second, do you have sponsors? I would think so based on the stickers...just wondering if that is working out well for you. Very nice car and swap!
  15. I know John, he's the president of the ZCCIV that I belong to and he is a "super nice guy". He went out and bought me a new cap for my water heater hose when it went out the the Japanese Classic Car Show last year.
  16. Thanks for the report Bill. I'm generally busy on Thursday nights so I haven't made it to any of their meertings, but it sounds like I should try it one of these days.
  17. 235/45-17's will probably work, but most manufacturers of that tire size do not recommend you install that wide of a tire on a 7" wide rim. Your contact area to the pavement will probably be smaller than what you would have with a narrower tire. Read Brad-ManQ45's post in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112952 According to his data 215's, or maybe even 205's, give you the best performance on a 7" wide rim.
  18. You can find other styles or brands in that size that would be close in price to what you're looking at. I'm running 225/45-17's and I don't have any problems with turning the wheels.
  19. Hey Bill Group Z is meeting at 7:00 tonight at Fuddruckers restaurant. I have other plans, but at least there would be other Z's too see. I can forward you a map if you send me your email address. Edit: you included your email in your first post, so I forwarded you the info.
  20. Now that sounds like a good race...I wish I could be there to see it. Make sure to get some video. You stated stock suspension, but have the rear ends have been beefed up? I'm pretty sure I read about jnj upgrading their's. John, you show him and represent HybridZ...unofficially of course
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