Bartman

Okay I put on a good battery from one of my other cars last night and gave it another go with no luck. The engine turned over quicker, but still won't start. I also tried to disconnect the MAF with no luck as well. I didn't have a hard fault so I have no way to figure out what code(s) were being thrown previously and I don't have a crank sensor. I do need to check my injectors and proper fuel pressure (I've got a fuel pressure gauge on the way). I'm getting close to buying a new Opti (you can get a brand new Accel on eBay for $232.66 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACCEL-GM-94-97-LT-1-LT1-OPTI-SPARK-DISTRIBUTOR-59125_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33690QQihZ004QQitemZ140036836451QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW) but what else, like ICM and coil. This will add up, so I'd like to check everything else first. A couple of things I'm not sure of from this post. on the tps check to you just hook up DataMaster while moving the throttle, or is this with a multimeter. On the MAP what kind of reaction are you looking for? Thanks again to everyone for their help and input.

They are fleshcutters hungry to make a meal out of someone's unsuspecting leg. I made sure that the tips sit in further than the bumper to help prevent them from snacking on me. I'm sure some people don't like them, but hey there's a lot of people that don't like the fact that I stuck a V8 in my Z either. Now let's talk about the M3 fender vents I stuck in my hood.

The sytem isn't throwing any codes right now, but can I get it to throw any without first starting? Can the opti still be bad even though it passed the shbox tests? I'm not convinced that its getting a strong enough spark, so I still need to figure out how I can test that. The battery didn't work all that well when it first broke down, that's why I had to get a jump (which is strange, because it was working fine until then). I've been jumping it while I'm trying to diagnose the problem as well. The wires are fairly new as well, but you never know.

Why don't you send a PM to Tim240Z and see if he can tell you how he did it on the unit I have. He should be able to help you out.

Well surprisingly enough, my opti and spark checked out okay with the shbox tests. I'm kinda stumped now. I still think the spark looks a little on the weak side...any suggestions?

You want to loop the lines and not gut it? It would probably work, but you would be taking some horsepower to do it that way. My lines are just capped off with rubber caps.

Can't wait to see some paint on your Z...it's been needing it for even longer than mine has. Great color too!

Sorry I missed you, I would have enjoyed talking with you. I won a trophy last year for 2nd best engine swap, but they didn't give out any awards for engine swap's this year. Even if they did, I don't think I would have won this year. There were some very nice cars there, and I think in general the crowd wasn't as in to my V8 conversion as other japanese motor conversions. Still, some people seemed to be very impressed and were asking lots of questions. I started it up when a buddy of mine dropped by and people came from all around to check it out. Unless you look in the engine bay, the car doesn't look like much. lol, the tips were a special request from my wife and kids. I try to keep them involved with the project and let them help pick out parts for it. I do this hoping they won''t mind so much when I spend so much time working on it in my garage. The air box is open on the front, so it gets all the air from under the hood. I was thinking about adding a scoop like one on the Z06, but then I'd have to worry about moisture getting in.

Well I didn't win any awards and my car didn't make it home (at least not under it's own power), but it was a nice show nonetheless. Here's a couple of shots that someone took of my car. As you can see, I've put on a few polished items on the engine. I've got to get her fixed and get to the bodywork.

I'm going to try this test tonight and see what results I get: http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test

Thanks for all the information. It looks like DataMaster losing the connection to the PCM while cranking is normal, and not a sign of a problem. I checked my wiring to the PCM and everything looks good (constant power, switched power, and I've already run all my PCM grounds to the battery and have a good grounding strap from the engine to the chassis). The A/C has been off since the problem first started. I also checked for spark at the plug and at the coil, and although I do have spark it doesn't seem to be very strong. More information: The morning that this problem started, the CEL was on and I didn't have time to check for codes before the car show, so I don't know what code was being thrown. It ran pretty good, but it did buck a little bit at very low RPM conditions while driving in traffic. After it died I couldn't hardly even get it to crank at all. I had my cables with me and I got someone to stop and give me a jump. It would crank and it backfired but it would not start. It seemed like the timing was off or something else electrical related. When you try and start it and stop cranking the engine will continue to turn over for a short time, but very slowly (almost like it is dieseling). When I rebuilt and upgraded the top end I also upgraded to a vented opti, but I put in a used one that I got from eBay. So it could be an opti problem, but I don't want to just throw parts at the problem. If I can isolate the problem as the opti I have no problems buying a new one.

I didn't check spark since the PCM doesn't have power while I'm cranking......but I will verify. I'm currently tracing through all my PCM wiring, since that seems to be a likely area for a problem. My AC is wired independant of the PCM.

On the way home from the JCCS on Saturday my engine died on the freeway. I went to switch on the air and the engine died on me (I knew it might, because the idle speed with the A/C on is still too low), but I expected it to start again afterwords. Well it wouldn't start, and I wound up getting it towed home. I thought it would be something simple, but I still haven't figured out the problem. It will crank, but it won't fire. It's getting fuel and the Check Engine light is on when the ignition is on and when it cranks. I hooked up DataMaster to try and see what's going on and it can establish communication with the PCM when the ignition is on, but as soon as it cranks it loses communication with it. As soon as you stop cranking, DataMaster can again communicate with the PCM. I had a similar problem when I first wired in my PCM using an ignition hot wire that wasn't hot when cranking, but I fixed that a long time ago. I checked the iginition hot wire going to my PCM last night and it is still hot while cranking the engine. I'm in the process of checking all my wiring, but I thought I would see if anyone has any ideas of what could be happening.

Yes, I still have it...PM sent.

I have my odyssey battery installed behind the passenger seat with a nice aluminum case I got off eBay. I grounded it to the bolt for the seat belts and yes the positive cable runs to the starter. I did not use a neutral safety switch.

I think this picture is from the last jump I made. It's what we call a Hybrid jump with some of us standing a couple of people belly flying. I got my picture in Parachutist magazine a couple of times and even made the cover of the USPA calender in 2003 (I think). I was way into it for a few years, but now I get more satisfaction from working on my car. I think I spend about the same amount of money, but I have something to show for it other than pic's and video.

Here's a post I made about this a while back. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107698

I've logged well over 800 jumps, mostly freefly type jumps with alot of sit flying, head down, and other crazy stuff. I haven't jumped for a couple of years now...the Z has taken over my free time. I probably won't go back though, the thrill of it all has gone for me. Good luck to you and be prepared to spend alot of money if you're going to stick with it.

You can prime the LT1 in a similar way, but I think the intake has to be removed to remove the dummy distibutor shaft and get your power drill/screwdriver in there and turn the pump. I think it actually turns with a large flatblade type screwdriver tip. I can look it up in my manual if you need more info, I did it when I rebuilt my top end.

If your getting a custom grind, have you thought about going with a 4/7 swap. If I didn't get a deal on my heads/cam package I think I would have gone with one.

How did you bend a valve? The 847 sounds pretty good with 234/242 @ .50 and 539/558 with 1.5:1 rockers. Are you going to go with 1.6 Roller Rockers as well? I don't know if you've done it already, but I would switch to a double roller as well...especially if the timing chain had anything to do with your bent valve.

Accordng to their website: All of the pieces that we will be making are of two part urethane with a flex additive, reinforced with either fiberglass mat, fiberglass weave, or carbon fiber weave. So it's probably stronger than just urethane and holds it's form a little better. They can also "break" since they also state: They can also be repaired easily and we will be offering an 'in the field' repair kit that can be used to repair minor cracks while at the track, with a short 2-3 hour cure time. I'd be interested to see and feel one their end products.

If I'm understanding correctly, you would like to wire your fuel pump relay with a single ignition hot wire which would serve as the power for the pump as well as the power to activate the relay (meaning the fuel pump would always be on when the ignition is on). Is this correct? If so then I think VinhZXT gave you the right advice. Perhaps your saying that the relay switch is ground activated. I have a couple of ground activated relays in my install since the PCM activates several items with a ground signal. IIRC the wiring for that is different than what you posted. I can check my MAD Enterprises wiring book and post up a diagram if you need it.