Bartman

The hood is lifting at the front hinges. The hood itself is not bending at all, it is raising up because the hinge is raising up. I probably do have the hood your talking about. I got it from boate who told me that it came with his car. It is fastened like oem, and it works fine except for this lift that I think is caused because the hinges no longer have the springs to keep them down when closed.

So I've got the hood installed using the stock hinges (with the springs removed), and I have a little problem. When I drive the car the under hood pressure pushs the hood up a little. It really bugs me to see the hood higher than the fender while I'm driving. When I stop I can push the hood back down, but when I'm driving it stays up. The only solution I can think of is to put in a couple of hood pins on top of the radiator support. Anyone else have any other suggestions?

Maybe the MSA kit would be a good choice for you. I don't think the oil pan height is much of a consideration with the JTR setup, because the lowest part of the oil pan is still higher than the front crossmember. It sounds like easy distributor access would be a plus for you, and like you said you don't need to worry about placement of the manual shifter. I think you would have better header selection as well. As far as the TH350 mount, it would probably be fairly easy to make the necessary modifications for the 2 + 2, and you would probably have to do the same with the JTR setup. Good Luck, and it looks like your doing your homework!

Well, it sounds like there must be differences. My PCM definitely provides ground both for the 2 seconds after iginition is turned on as well as when the engine is cranking. I'm not using the Chevy oil pressure sending unit, so I can't say for sure how that was originally setup to work (my engine and PCM is from a 94 f-body). Either way it sounds like you have what you need to get it wired up. Good luck on your swap!

I'm still not convinced we have everything figured out correctly. My understanding is that the line from the oil pressure sending unit is not a back up in case the fuel pump relay goes bad, but a safety device to ensure that once the engine is running that extremely low oil pressure will stop the flow of fuel. I don't think the PCM has to know anything about the low pressure, it knows when the ignition is first turned on and then energizes the relay for 2 seconds (by giving the relay ground). I know the PCM continues to give the relay ground as long as the car is running, because that's how I have mine wired. What I don't understand is how the oil pressure sender cuts power to the pump or relay when the oil pressure is low. In general the PCM doesn't power devices directly, it gives ground to a relay which then allows the relay to give direct power to the device. This is how the cooling fans work work as well as the fuel pump (even the MIL is activated by a ground from the PCM). P.S. - Perhaps the third wire you mentioned from the sensor is for an idiot light?

I'm not sure exactly how it is wired, but there's some information on this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95610 In the thread they talk about switching from the fuel pump relay to power from the oil pressure switch once the engine cranks, but I'm not convinced. I'm just using the output from the PCM to activate my relay (the PCM uses a ground signal for this) along with an ignition hot. The relay turns on for two seconds when ignition is turned on and then turns on again once I start cranking the engine. I think the oil pressure sender is supposed to be wired in such that the fuel pump is turned off if the oil pressure is less than somewhere around 4 psi.

Is it overkill...probably. I think dual quad's is more of a style issue than strict performance (at least in most installations), if it's something you like I'm sure you can make it work. Two40MuscleZ is running a tunnel ram and someone else put a system on their car recently, but I don't remember who.

Looks good! What do you have for a drivetrain (or planning on doing)?

I agree, it sounds fantastic. I notice the rear of the car dropping quite a bit under hard acceleration. I wonder if you stiffen that up a little (higher rate springs), you may be able to get a little more out of it.

Sounds interesting and looking forward to more information. Are these both going to be track cars, autocross, street, or ?

You've got the Z back? I must have missed that...I thought it was still at the body shop.

Those are some pretty good times, especially for the conditions. I thought you had to dip below 10's for a cage?

awd92gsx has the exact same hood, but he painted his black.http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101130 The airdam is the Kaminari unit, and I'm not planning on any other mods to it other than installing some fog lamps. I'm thinking smaller oval units instead of the big ones that it was originally designed for. A special thanks to boate for making me a great deal on the hood.

It looks like I will have to "split the difference". I couldn't get everything else to line up with the fender as far back as I had it in my last picture. I had to move the fender forward a little bit to get everything to fit properly. So I will probably wind up removing the kick panel to move the door slightly forward. Thanks for all the help.

Yes, there has been several discussions regarding this, but I'm more concerned with low speed venting. Without much speed to create this high pressure area, it comes down to the simple fact that hot air rises and the rear vent allows this heat to escape.

I'm using seats out of a 94 Mazda Miata, and they fit fairly easily. As a bonus, I just installed speakers into the headrests (the seats have provisions for installing speakers in them).

I'm not planning on opening up the front, because there would be no benefit...in fact it would probably be a hinderance. I think the rear vent will help allow the heat to escape at low speed conditions. My air intake comes from under the hood before the radiator support, so the front vent wouldn't help for my install. I do want the front vent to appear open at a distance, so I will likely paint the front vent area flat black or something similar.

Sure, I'm about 12 miles south off the 15/Indian Truck Trail in a place called Horsethief Canyon Ranch.

So I have four hoods now, but I think this is the one I'm going to wind up using. It took some time, but it's completely installed including the factory latch and hinges. In general the hood is pretty cool, but I wish it would have come with rolled edges.

Looks really good. Fills out the flares well and the height gives the car a pretty mean stance.

The vent controls are an upgraded unit that I bought with my Vintage Air GEN II mini A/C package.

Okay since the rear quarter to door gap seems to be pretty good, I started by moving the fender back until the front gap looked good. The bottom of the fender fits good, but it's sitting out in the picture because the bottom bolt isn't installed yet. I'm just putting stuff on loosely until I figure out the correct placement of everything. I'm pretty happy with the results! The problem now is with the cowl and inspection lids. The cowl is temporarily installed without the little rubber pockets because it was hard to get it back enough to fit the inspection lids (you can see the cowl panel is low in the back right now in the pic above). I had to shim the inspection lids in order to get them far back enough so that they didn't hit the fender at the front. So I get some work to do, but this is probably the right way to go about it. Thanks again to everyone for their help and advice.