NZeder

Thanks for that - I guess I should now try the rack in there too given your comments. I also think that engine mount that I am using is just a little taller when installed - time will tell. I have checked your gallery and you have pics of the 2jzge install do you have any of your RB install with the CRS mounts?

Bring this one back from the dead, K-Mac now have a bolt in camber/caster plate for the S30 chassis ie 240z/260z/280z. see http://www.k-mac.com.au/pages/newprods/datsun/datsun.htm The pic on their site shows a pre production unit with out the caster adjustment. I have just received my set and I am waiting for K-Mac to confirm if I can post pics given the design is patented. As my car is still a body shell I can't comment on how well the work on the road but I can say they are very well made and do work with both stock setup and coilover (I have test fitted this to both). With coil overs you get more adjustment in camber. Cheers Mike

Hell no flares are required as the rim will sit out a fair bit. Here is pic of my RS Watanabes on the rear of a standard Zed ie guards and suspension and you will see how far they stick out. The rims is 16x9.5 -19 tyre is 245/45/16.

Not true here in NZ we got Z31T units and found the same issues but this was on early cars and very low race cars.

Modified Castlemain Rodshop units. The Castlemain mounts are designed to use the standard zed isolator but I am using the Energy Suspension isolator partnumber #2.1102 as they have a safety interlock design see http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/univ3.html and here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120218&highlight=2.1102 So we cut off the ears and welded on a new 5mm plate that had longer ears for these wider mounts.

Some more pics - the cross member is the not the final one just one spare that I had. We can now fab up the gearbox mount and sort a few other things in the engine bay before the engine is removed and the body work finished once and for all.

Ok got busy tonight after work. The stainless steel headers that came with this engine are a very close fit. And they almost fit but they are fowling on the flange at the floor but only just. You see the engine mounts have been modified for the captive engine mounts and this has raised the engine 5mm from the standard castle main mount. So if this was not done I believe there would be no issues. Having said that I plan to install the RB30 in the future so that will lift the head 38mm from where it sits now so I am going to see if I can get the header modified to lower the flange. Anyway here are some pics.

Yes I spotted the mag in the shops today at lunch so I had to pick up a copy

Not sure about the hight as I don't have a 240z anymore. Re the fit of rims. I found this thread on the Australia Z site/forum. You will see pics of a car fitted with 16x7 16x8 both +4 Rota RB-R (you can tell they are RB-R as you can see the flatter shape to the spokes and you can also see the wheel nuts) if you look further down the thread you will see another zed with Rota RB install in 16x7 +4 you will notice the more curve to the spoke and also the wheel nuts are more hidden in the deeper holes in the rims due to the thicker bit around the mounting made possible by the more curve on the spoke. I personally like the RB-R look But this thread does show you a zed with the 16x7+4 and 16x8+4 with 225 and 245. Hope this helps http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=2135.0;topicseen Regards Mike

This project of your got me doing some research now that petrol locally is now $2 a litre or approx $6.23 US a gallon and I think a 280zx would be better due to the better drag co-efficient of the S130 body design over the S30. I read on a EV site that you want to use a car with a low Cd, ideally under 0.35 the 240z has a 0.47 Cd vs the 280zx 0.38 or better yet a 300ZXT (with chin spoiler and rear spoiler/wing) Z31 with a Cd of only 0.30 (0.31 for the standard car) The Ferrari Enzo has an aerodynamic drag coefficient as poor as 0.36 so the Nissan ZX range looks good

Not quite right. You see the 7" rim is infact almost 8" from outer rim to outer rim and the 8" rim is 9". So an 8" rim with a zero offset is more like 4.5" backspace and a 7" with 0 is 4" so +15 will then add your extra 0.59" so both will have almost the same backspace of 4.5". The max of the 280z due to the lower spring perch is around 4.5" to 4.65" so a 8" with +4 would be good. The 0 will work too but you need to be careful of the tyre choice as they could catch on the guards and it will be rear that will have more issues at the 0 offset. Here is a different (more of a side shot of my old 240z) with the 16x8 +10. Now on fronts I had a disk setup that went over the hubs so this was the same as running a 6mm spacer so that would make the rims on the front sit the same as the 16x8 +4. You can see there is room on the rear (you might also make out that rear guards are rolled/trimmed, this was done before I purchased the car for when it had the 16x9 with a 245/45/16 fitted) so with a 225/45/16 you can see on the 16x8 it is a good fit. As the 240z spring perch is almost 1" higher you can get away with more backspace on the fronts like almost 4.9" (this is what the 16x8 +10 end up with, and they would clear with my old brake setup which was stock) These would not work on a 260z that I tried them on (we did not get the S30 bodied 280z but our later 260z has the same suspension setup as your S30 280z) So I would recommend 16x8 +4 on a 280z, these will be very close on the fronts so a 245/45/16 will more than likely cause rubbing. So a 225/50 or 225/45 would be the best bet. The only reason I say this is you will have the same rim on all 4 corners ie you can rotate the rims/tyres which you can't do with the staggered setup. However your investment in rims your choice. I have been there and done that a number of time with rims and for a car with stock guards I liked the setup that was on my last 240z you can see by the pic the combo worked well on the 240z with the 16x8 +10 so I think if you have stock type brake setup ie no disk over the hub then 16x8 +4 are almost perfect on the zed cars. A 0 offset gets a bit close to the lip of the guards. Cheers Mike

What zed to you have a 240z or a 260z/280z? There is a difference in the front strut spring perch location so it can make a difference. I had a 240z with stock spring perches and when I purchased the car it had 16x9 on all 4 corners without guard mods. I then replaced these (as a 245/45/16 which was ideal for the rim were too wide and guard mods would be required) so I go some 16x8 +10 on all 4 corners with no issues anywhere. Here is a pic rims are Rota RB-R in hyperblack 16x8 + 10 tyres are 225/45/16 with a rim protector type side wall. These rims would have clearance issues on a 260z/280z front strut so you would be better with the 16x8 +4. With a 0 offset you might have clearance issue on the rear depending on the tyre ie how it sits on the rim and the size as there appears to be less room on the rear than the fronts.

Does your controller do regen? If you don't have a clutch maybe you could use the old clutch leaver as a regen leaver?

google show people have done the Lithium Polymer thing for electric cars see http://www.azom.com/news.asp?newsID=10581 and http://www.dragtimes.com/video-viewer.php?v=RXJWNzFR_QQ and http://www.proev.com

The 300zx used alloy for a 26mm rotor then went to alloy for 30mm rotor and then to cast iron supporting the thicker 30mm rotor and also a new design. The caliper difference is well documented on the web as is the flex of the alloy calipers - google is your friend but this will help you tell which is which. http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm or for a different info from here http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Brake_Upgrades_Miscellaneous

I think this flex/deflection you feel is the reason Nissan/Sumitomo when back to cast iron units not cast alloy.

Love the project - I was going to do this to a B210 a few years back and I still keep an eye on the electric car conversions and commercial electrics cars as this is something I want to do one day (the old electrical engineer in me before moving into IT) and with our gas at around $6 US a gallon today I am very very keen to do something like this.

From that site see That does not look like a 240z/S30 front strut - just look at the mounting ears for the brakes - looks like it has 5 bolt mounting all around the spindle? Also this gives it away too Notice the caliper is front mounted - were as the stock 240z/S30 is a rear mount caliper.

The only reason I can thing of (going by his location) they are easy to come by and they support a thicker rotor, so if you need to make a mounting bracket you can also add a much larger rotor at the same time that is 30mm or 32mm thick. You have to remember that in our part of the world the Wilwood or Outlaw calipers are usually more $$ due to import cost and duties etc. ie it was cheaper for me to purchase an import some US Brake F88i from the US than purchasing them locally vs secondhand Nissan calipers which can be had for the same price as one or 1/2 a Wilwood. I did think about these for my project also and was tempted as they would be up the task for the road use etc.

The only place that I have seen an adaptor for the use of these 4 pots fronts on a S30 is on Yahoo Japan (auction). If I recall the mounting ears on the these later calipers is 100mm where as S30 is 3.5" or 88.9mm.

Well in our part of the world the 240sx is a 200sx and some of the later models of these the S14/S15 did come with the 4 pot Nissan calipers on the fronts

Check with the pertronix setup/documentation as I think they require a 3ohm coil for 6 cylinder setups. I have a pertronix and one of their coils on my 71 240z works great I did the wiring mod that has been explained on this site etc. I can't recall the coil I got but it is a 3ohm I think.....Just checked what I ordered it was the 60,000 volt HV High Vibration Epoxy Filled Coil 3.0ohm unit = partnumber 60130. This setup has been running great in the car for the last 10month or so.

At work I am the IT guy (geek if you like) at home I am Dad and the guy that spends too much time surf'n the interweb thing for zed stuff and on forums etc I don't own a flat panel anything or a HD recorder or media gadget thing and my kids don't watch TV so I have an old 29" CRT and VCR. I know networks and how to make those black boxes work in the office at home my printer is broken and has been for months. And here is the big one - why spend $$ on gadgets when the can spend on a zed gadget's the household gets zed parts I get :) Channel 2 at Midnight - right now on Channel 8 is "5th Gear" or motorsport on Channel 30 until Midnight...now we are talking

I would if have the technology to do just that but only have a very old VCR that sometimes works + don't want to break any copyright rules

Nice but not really a street car. I mean this by the fact that it is not running stock front end setup = modified from stock with tubed front end. Look at the R.I.P.S car and it is still a stock 240z from the seats forward - ie the diff setup is not stock but then non of the fast drag cars street or otherwise they are all (or just about all) tubed with a custom live axle setup. Now if Rob was to do this to the front of the zed then add some lexan to replace glass, then add some FG panels to get the weight down from the 1340kg it is at now then it would be quicker and as Rob has stated they still have trans issues to sort before they get near the potential the car has even in its current format.