NZeder

Nice but not really a street car. I mean this by the fact that it is not running stock front end setup = modified from stock with tubed front end. Look at the R.I.P.S car and it is still a stock 240z from the seats forward - ie the diff setup is not stock but then non of the fast drag cars street or otherwise they are all (or just about all) tubed with a custom live axle setup. Now if Rob was to do this to the front of the zed then add some lexan to replace glass, then add some FG panels to get the weight down from the 1340kg it is at now then it would be quicker and as Rob has stated they still have trans issues to sort before they get near the potential the car has even in its current format.

guys lets see if I can explain this a bit better. First I will not be talking about the VLSD 88 axles just yet so all this is just the normal 300ZXT axles. This is what I have found with the 3 sets of 300zxt axles I have collected over the last few years. There are two axles, a LH and RH side. One has a longer input that goes into the diff. This axle with the longer input to the diff share the same 4 bolt CV thing on the other end of the shaft. The shaft is a different length to the other side. The other side has a shorter diff input and also a shorter shaft in the between the two CV things (the 4 bolt bit and the diff input bit) So the shafts are not the same length! Now I think the confusion comes from some of the after-market CV/Axles out there and these might be using the same length shaft with the different diff inputs on the ends. And this might be causing really bad issues stated above. However I know for us here in NZ, and what we have found on my mates early 240z, that even the shorter 300ZXT shaft was not short enough. I think the same length shaft is not a issue on the 300ZXT but on the S30 range where it is tighter for space to begin with this only make the matter worse. Now the VLSD 88ss shafts have a much much longer diff plug in for the VLSD engagement I cam only assume the shaft is the same length as the corresponding part on the 300ZXT with the different diff input CV the only difference. Again most of this talk is about the 300ZXT and the VLSD 88ss shafts should be discussed as it will only add to the confusion. Also please understand that when I am talking about the shaft I am just talking about the metal bit between the two CV joints (ie the diff input bit and the 4 bolt bit) when I talk about the axle I am talking about the complete unit with the CV on the end of the shaft.

The R31 Skyline and Z31 shafts are the same part as they have the same partnumber in Nissan FAST so in the pic it is one is more compressed than the other. The 280zxt shafts are different as they have the tri-pod which is the same spline count just on a smaller shaft diameter. I found some Nissan axles that are much shorter as stated there are two types that I found - in the weekend I will dig them out and take some pic and measurements. As to the question about the 300zxt shafts yes they are different lengths - if you remove the ends the long side axles has a shaft that is 10mm longer than the short shaft. Hell I can't remember the exact difference is length best I get them out of the shed and take some pics/measurement again. Again I will do this but in the weekend.

Well it is on local TV tonight - might just have to stay up and what the whole thing

Yep have a R200 in the rear now with the 260z (we didn't get the S30 280z locally steering wheel is on the other side) mustache bar so what I meant is that the car was originally a forward mount R180 however it is now changed/corrected with the R200 fitted too. I guess I was trying to see if all the other cars with the shaft length issue are all early shells that originally has the forward mounted diff (ie upgraded to the R200 with correct mustache bar and CV shafts) I managed to find a stock Nissan CV shaft that is shorter than the 300zxt shaft - I will have to go out to the shed and find it and measure it again. This shaft has the same spline count/size as the 300zxt shaft just shorter, I think at the time I thought it was too short but I might have to revisit the maths again. Again I will update shortly - later today my time.

I think you will find it is not the crank snout but the acc pulley on the front has a different offset. I am lead to believe that the R32 has the different offset for the 3rd pulley but R33/R34 are the same. I see that Ross has different part numbers for RB20, RB25, RB26 (R32), RB26 (R33), RB26 (R34) and the RB30. If I am going to get one I am thinking I will get the Ross unit for the following reasons. 1. Well made product 2. Locally made (well sort of just over the Tasman sea) 3. They have a listing for the RB30 4. The front (3rd) pulley is a bolt on and I don't want or need it

We found on mates 240z that flipping the CV cage was not enough we used 2 sets of axles using 2 short axles. On the shorter side of the axles he shortened the axle before the C-Clip and as he is using the 280zx type lock nut not the penn type nut he also shortened the stub axles this gave enough clearance to get the axles in without binding throughout the travel. The short axles on the long side with the correct diff input resulted in no cage flip and no clearance issues. So in the end we had 2 custom axles for the short side made, one for my zed and the other for my mate's 240z. Not sure if it makes a difference but my mates 240z is a early body shell ie originally had the diff forward and the hand throttle/cable next to the choke cable. How many others with the lenght/bind issue are these early shells? As the suspension is out of my later 260z I can't comment if I need the custom axles but given I have it now I will be using it anyway (again this custom axles is only for the short side and we are using the normal short axles on the long side with the correct ends) The custom axles is 10mm shorter if I recall correctly.

Hi Octane Racing do the Ross Full Metal Jacket RB balancers for under $500 AUD see http://hioctaneracing.com.au/eshop/index.php?manufacturers_id=52

Great job Rob. The real bonus is the local TV coverage of a Zed car good to see, this with the classic race cars that get a bit of air time on Prime/Sky TV it is good to see Zed's on the box. So if this car is for sale Rob what is next on the project/agenda?

Thought I would bring this thread back from the dead. Some might know that I have a RB30 bottom end and I plan to install a RB26 head on with triple TB etc. Anyway I will be picking up an engine in the next month or so that is hybrid out of Japan. It is a RB25 bottom end with RB26. The engine is a DE with modified stainless steel header, RB20DET gearbox and "Top Secret" ECU. This means that I can put this into the car and get it back on the road sooner as the RB30DE that I want to build will require more $$ spent on it which I don't have. Anyway until I collect the engine (still need to pay for it) I will drop its pants to install the rear sump and I will check the internals out to see what has been done. This is what I do know - it has HKS high lift cams, HKS adjustable cam gears, 1.0mm metal head gasket. Gearbox as a quick shifter installed so I can only assume it will have a twin or triple plate clutch (again once I get the engine home I will drop the box off and check that out too). I have been told by the importer that it has some special internals too and their guy in Japan heard the engine run before it was removed and imported into NZ and it sounded/ran/rev'ed well. So this got me to search on Japanese sites to see what they are doing to RB's and I found a few tuning houses are building RB29's to increase the torque of the RB25 bottom ends. I guess this is because of the rare RB30 bottom ends even in Japan (most were in Australia, NZ and some in South Africa). Anyway the RB29 is made using a RB25 bottom end, with custom rods and pistons with the RD28 crank that has been worked. The RD28 crank is a 83mm stroke so does this sound like the old LD28 stroker trick but in RB's So anybody know more about using the RD28 crank in the RB bottom ends? I can only hope that my new engine will have some of these Japanese trick, time will tell.

I have not made mine yet but plan to do with 260zman did however I will modify/make mine to take the energy suspension GM gearbox mount as this is a captive mount. I figured if I have to make something why not use a good mount that is easy to replace and that does fit on the RB box with no issues and the GM mount is fine for the job

Spotted this for those looking for a Z31 kit see http://page16.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u23855548

My question is why? Nissan made a Z31 with an RB in it - this is where most get the rear sump from so just pickup the engine mounts etc from Nissan = factory parts could not be easier could it not?

You might be able to get the new shafts from here http://oem-surplus.com/nwp/300zx3.htm

You will see the C10 above has OER carbs - I have a set on my current 240z and they are just like the Mikuni's easy to set but with weber jets and other bits = easy to get jets/tubes etc I recommend these if looking for new carbs. I will be running my triple DCOE TB's on my RB N/A power zed when I get that far.

hmm would love to see what headers these have.

very very well done I like it.

Excellent I am pleased it is correct I was 99% sure it was going to be so that make me feel better about spending the time to hunt down this number in the first place.

Ok found this today and thought I would share. Looks like this place in Japan do a DCOE manifold for the RB's. Here is link also shows pics of a RB20DE which has RB26 crank = RB24DE ie same bore/stroke as the L24 at 83mm bore and 73.7 stroke running 12.1:1 CR and triple TWM Throttle Bodies. http://home.att.ne.jp/delta/ner/RB20DE.html

A little off topic on the gearbox stuff but I found here in NZ from a Japanese imported Laurel that was fitted with LD28 a factory (by the look) FS5W71C with L6 bellhousing I have not pulled to see what the gears ratios are like but I was amazed to see just a box I had heard of them but it was like an urban myth I thought (I believe only came on these last of the LD28 that were manual = very rare)

the sound ohh the sound....speaking of which here is the sound of a RB26DE yes that is right a RB26DE as in an engine from a wrecked AUTECH R32 Skyline that has been installed in a R31 Skyline. http://www.nzeder.net/phpws/images/videos/MVI_0061.wmv EDIT: Now this is a video and some pics of a RB25D power S30 from rockyauto in Japan. So it is a carb'd RB25 so this is what they sound like http://www.nzeder.net/phpws/images/videos/video001.wmv 1.7MB Click images links for images http://www.rockyauto.co.jp/stock/img_show.php?id=1641&img=photo2&size=l http://www.rockyauto.co.jp/stock/img_show.php?id=1641&img=photo3&size=l http://www.rockyauto.co.jp/stock/img_show.php?id=1641&img=photo4&size=l http://www.rockyauto.co.jp/stock/img_show.php?id=1641&img=photo5&size=l

I guess the idea of this thread is that guy is interested in keep it Nissan and in-line six. If some of us could get an S20 engine we would put these in but given they are hard to get and RB's can be found I assume this is why some of us are looking at doing these conversions. Well you could - I wouldn't but you could - you see I have an RB gearbox in my garage with an L series bellhousing on it - same mod like the KA box mod you guys do in the US (KA are like hens teeth down here but RB stuff is easy to find, RB20/25/26 and 30's) so there is nothing stopping you from going the other way around and install a RB bellhousing on a L28 box. Again I would not do it as to get the RB bellhousing you have to first get a RB box = just put that in. But I could get my other L28 bellhousing and see if it will mate up to my RB30 block tomorrow when I visit the workshop after work? Again I still would not do it as even if it did line up the gearbox would be on the wrong angle = gear leave would be sticking out the side of the gearbox tunnel so to fix this an adaptor would be required or as above RB bellhousing so you then come back to getting a RB gearbox......and around and around we go do tell For me the RB is a good choice = CC with the RB30 bottom end and still a Nissan motor (mine will be with triple TB's as I have these already along with an after market ECU - just need to mod the fuel system)

If you think about it this would a about the cheapest way to go if you want that RB DOHC look while still on a budget. Not ECU or wiring changes, no fuel tank/fuel line issues (assume you have a carb 240z already). Just need RB25DE engine and box (the RB25DE box is the same as the RB20DET), electric fuel pump, some triples on a custom manifold (you might have these already on a L24/L28), rear sump, engine and gearbox mount and you are away. The power gain over a L28 would be nothing or less but if it is the look you are after you will have it If you have an earlier 240z shell it would be better to use a KA/CA/SR box and install the RB bellhousing as the tail is longer and the gear leaver would be in the correct location for the 240z shells that had the A box originally but you would then need to shorten the drive shaft. This would get you up and running with RB power/look quickly you could then save the $$ for a RB30 bottom end and do the DOHC conversion to this, then in a weekend swap out the RB25D and put in the newly build RB30D for more power.

I think they all will be custom to some form. You can get RB25DE headers from Fujitsubo (and others) that might work with minor mods so that take care of headers for RB20/25 heads. But RB26 = custom (Unless you find the rare RB26DE from the AUTECH R32 Skyline). Intakes will have to custom on any head but the RB26 first 1/2 of the intake before the standard TB's has 45mm throats that are almost (within a 1mm) the same as DCOE but the bolt pattern is different closer at one and further apart at the other. But an adapter should fix that - not sure if the RB26 intake will fit on a RB20/25 head? Anybody know the answer to this?