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Everything posted by NZeder
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great news on yours 260zman. Mine is still sometime away. After selling my 240z to fund the building of a new garage for the 260z and to complete the project once and for all (10 years and a number of project scope changes I will get there) I can see light at the end of the tunnel. Here is tonight's efforts - I now need to visit the car and measure from the head mounting face to the strut tower to check that distance but I think they will fit - however I might need to shorten the trumpets up a little so I can put a cold airbox around them. Now I just need to have the throttle shafts shortened so I can mount all 3 TB on the manifold.
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Well - lets see - put some bungs in the standard injector holes - mount some DCOE TB's on with the injectors further away this has benefits, many when looking at larger injectors and higher performance applications. There is lots of info and theory about this on the interweb thing see here for example http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0704_pitstop_fuel_injector_location/index.html but the idea is that small injectors have a good spray pattern = close the head is good ie OEM setups but larger injectors the spray pattern is not so good so having these further way = more atomisation before it get to the valve. You can run a tapper TB like I will be 50mm at the trumpet, 48mm at the butterfly and 45mm at the manifold = better for flow = more performance can be gained vs straight bore TB's. If your ECU support it - you could have a dual injector setup ie use the ones next to the head for economy/low speed work and the add or swap to the higher performance injectors. Or you could have the injectors in the stock location but have empty carbs and use these for their butterflies and the old school look - now that is an idea I like They will look way cool - how much is that worth? And also this •Long skinny intake runners create air velocity and torque at low RPM. •Short fat intake runners create air velocity and horsepower at high RPM. So you will be adding more length to the intake runners as the DCOE TB's will be at least 20mm further away (this is how thick these adaptors are) and there is room for this in the zed engine bay
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Just got my RB26 DCOE adaptors back from the CNC guy. So my question how many others on here would be interested in a set? I can arrange the supply of these for $300 USD + shipping for 3 of these adaptors. They will be supplied with cap screws to mount these to your RB26 manifold - these replace the standard RB26 TB and allow the bolting on of any DCOE carbs or throttle body. Made from marine grade alloy. Perfect for you N/A RB26 head conversion or maybe a blow through setup with something different from the standard RB26 TB setup - ie using the standard injector location and second set in the DCOE throttle body. Pics attached and once I mount up the DCOE TB I will take some more pics - I might mount some carbs for photo's too Pic #1 = RB26 head manifold without stock TB installed Pic #2 = RB26 head manifold with new adaptor sitting in place Pic #3 = RB26 head manifold with new adaptor 1/2 bolted down Pic #4 = Prototype drawing If no interest then at least you guys will see what I have done
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R.I.P.S RB30 street engine getting another update for testing
NZeder replied to RIPSNZ's topic in Nissan RB Forum
That is some local humour. D.o.C = Department of Conservation ie they look after all the rare and protected plants, birds etc. The Takahe is such a bird and a D.o.C staff member shot one thinking it was one of the other native birds that is not on the rare list. google "doc Takahe shot" -
Don't forget that there are other countries in the world that are not JDM but still have the controls on that side of the car
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R.I.P.S RB30 street engine getting another update for testing
NZeder replied to RIPSNZ's topic in Nissan RB Forum
If we don't burn up all the oil/petrol the car makers won't come up with new technology - so it is our job to burn it up for the better of the world Great job Rob I am sure you will reach your target pass time. -
Does anyone know what the inner rack thread/pitch is? This is the part that screws into the rack see pic below for sample (taken from another topic on this site) Is it a M18 M20 or what? I thought I would ask before I pull my rack apart to findout (there is nothing wrong with my rack and if I can keep it together that would be cool if someone knows the answer ie I don't have to strip it to find out) I have tried searching the web (for a few nights now) and I can't find the answer to the question. So does anybody know?
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Ok spent 15 minutes today in the garage between normal house hold jobs and visitors. I already have MM 300zxt/260z/280z companion flanges so I am using the 300zxt 4 bolt joint at the wheel end on these axles (same spline/size). Now as the short nose R200 diff I picked up has the 6 bolts in the 3 x 2 arrangement I am using the same matching 3 x 2 setup on the other end of the axle. I have found that vehicle I sourced these axles from come in two types. Both have the same length shafts in the centre so no issues there. One type has the 3 x 2 tri pod setup at the diff end with the other having the 5 x 1 star setup (aka like the 300zx open na diffs) The shafts in the centre are different between the two as the 5x1 star setup has the same spline/size on both ends where as the 3x2 setup has a smaller spline (same count) on this tri-pod CV end (hope that make sense) I have used the 300zxt specs I posted earlier as my guide to see if this hybrid axle will be shorter so I need my setup to be shorter than 409.5mm (ie compressed short side 300zxt axle) So if you do the flip cv race trick you make the axles 9.5mm shorter if the 3/8" statement on MM site is true so now I am looking for a setup less than 400mm. I put the axle together without the c-clips due the time limits I had today but you get the idea looking at the pics and the measurements. I took my measurements at the same points as the spec sheets attached above - ie from the bolt/mounting point at the wheel end to the seal end of the plug-in axle - again all working on the short side. Result is a length of 395mm or 14.5mm shorter than a compressed standard 300zxt short size shaft and 5mm shorter than a flipped race setup = should not bind at all. As my car is still a body shell with no running gear I can't do a test install but going by the numbers all will be good. Ok pic time - I have also included a pic of the 5 x 1 star from the other axle for reference. Also I have a pic of the 5 x 1 centre shaft next to the stock 300zxt long side shaft.
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That is what I was looking for the different casting numbers like P30 = L24 or L26, N42 = early L28, F54 = later L28. So far we know the following about RB casting numbers (there is not much info on this casting numbers on the web so I was looking for what you have found) RB26DETT = 05U = stock both on the head and block R32? Any others? RB25DE = 75T I have found this on RB32 RB25DE both head and block and above from a RB25DET R33 RB25??? = 08U = not sure yet still researching but it might be a RB25DE NEO block (I have this on a block that I have) Any others? It would be good to have a list.
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Ok got my cheap $20 NZD ($15 USD) open short nose R200 diff for the little plug in axles so in the weekend I will see if these + the hybrid axles will work = shorter than the 300ZXT CV shafts. Will update with pics after the weekend.
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RB30 have a casting mark of RB30 nice
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Any update on the casting number of the RB blocks and heads? I know the standard RB26 block and head have the 05U casting. So here is what I have found out RB26 stock = 05U on head, 05U on block RB25DE (non VVT ie R32) = 75T on head, 75T on block I also have a RB25 block that has 08U casting on it - so any others?
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I don't have my zed with the RB-R anymore so I can tell you if the 4x4 Toy calipers will clear 100% but I know this - they cleared a wilwood setup that looks to stick out more than the 4x4 calipers so I am 95% sure they would clear fine - I know there is a fair bit of caliper clearances on the RB-R rims - more then RS Watanabes thats for sure.
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I guess he means it is doubtful based on the unknown (you did not state) if the 1/2 shafts for the LSD are the same spline as the open units ie 29 spline etc. Or if the LSD is a VLSD or CLSD etc. So the centres should swap over it is just a question of alxes/1/2 shafts.
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Toyota S13W calipers dimensions
NZeder replied to Noddle's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Yes pics and is this caliper a 4 pot like the S12W and S13W? -
Just realised I did not post the length of that other axle that I found. Anyway attached is the 300zx and 300zxt shafts (complete max and min length) as I have 2 spare long shafts I can confirm they are approx 400mm long and I know the short side is approx 10mm shorter and looking at the attached spec sheet you will see that this works out - ie long side fully compressed = 421.5mm short side fully compressed = 409.5mm so the difference is the shaft length (as if you look at how the length is measured you will see this does not include the bit inside the diff) so that is a difference of 12mm or almost 1/2" for you guys that measure in that method. So to recap the 300ZXT shafts (that is without the CV's on the ends ie just the bare centre shaft) are as follows (approx lengths) Long side = 400mm shaft Short side = 388mm shaft The other Nissan shaft that I have found has the same splines as the Z31 300zxt shafts. And both sides are the same length. The length is 343mm for the shaft only. so that is 57mm shorter than the standard Z31 300ZXT long shaft and 45mm shorter than the Z31 300ZXT short shaft. My plan is to do see if some standard short nose R200 plug-in axles + these shorter shafts with the right combo of CV bits will result in a solution with no binding or chance of such occurring no matter how low your car is - once I know what the solution (if it works) I will let you know what the axles are from but they should be more common and easier to find given the number of these manufactured. If this does work it will also mean there will be a solution for VLSD centre too without the need for the hard to get (rare if you like) 1988 SS (or is that SE) VLSD Z31 300ZXT halfshafts. And even a solution for the S15 HLSD centres if you get the diff input axles too. I will update this thread once I get hold of a short nose R200 with the diff plug-in axles that I am looking for (I will know after the weekend if I get the one off our evil bay for $20 - want to keep the cost low incase this does not work don't want to be too far out of pocket) but again all using parts from wrecks so far to see if the combo does work out. Cheers Mike
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Yep they exist they come up for sale from time to time here in NZ. Going back to the "I believe" statement - I believe they are from the S13 CA18DE powered cars aka Silvia S13. Now I say I believe as I don't have evidence to back this up and you can never be to sure when you see items listed on auction site when you have not removed it your self. Anyway here is one listed on our ebay type auction site http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Nissan/Engines-drive-trains/auction-160318528.htm I quick search of trademe also has listing of R180 from A31 Cefiro's too so I guess these were used on a number of Nissan of the same period.
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Why that is were they are meant to be inside the diff. Nissan changed the location later from inside the diff to on the axles on the later short nose R200 (that is my understanding)
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Yes cost as in the past our $$ to the USD meant these were at least twice the price of the sale price in the US then you add shipping and duty = way way too pricey for us in the past. But now it is could be considered but it is still up there on the cost.
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All were RHD and 71 models that originally had the diff in forward location ie straight moustache bar. However both were upgraded to R200, both are road/race cars with 15" rims with 225/50/15.
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That statement is not true. Here in NZ we did not get the 280zx turbo but we have CV rear-end on all the series II 280zx fitted with R200's (manual's)
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Well the zeds I have seen with issues have the LCA level or they go up a little not like this so that might be why some are not having issues as their cars are not as low.
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Yep that is why I have rose joints on the LCA and adjustable TC rods. I have/am going to coilover setup and the setup I purchase came with weld in camber plates but the local engineer was not happy with them getting welded on the top of the struts and wanted us to tig weld these on from the underside - at this point I thought this is too hard so went and got these from K-MAC so they will bolt in and the strut tops are not modified in anyway = Engineer happy = me happy my car can get back on the road again some day soon. These will help also with the finer adjustments in both camber and caster as my LCA are not on car adjustable (these were on the car when I took it off the road almost 10 years ago to fix some rust under the battery box, that was fixed in a 1 week but having family as your panel beater = right price but you do wait, a long wait at that too)
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PDK Fabrication strut braces install
NZeder replied to ezzzzzzz's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Anybody know the answer to that question? -
Correct. The RB30 block is 38mm taller than the RB20/25/26 blocks. I have an RB30 block but this engine in the photos is not my RB30