NZeder

Or check out these guys - camber and caster bolt in - no cutting required http://k-mac.com.au/pages/newprods/datsun/datsun.htm I have a set (but my car is still in bits) for the fronts only and they will give me enough adjustments for my requirements. The 240z/260z/280z items is 1/2 down the page and the pic is rear unit without caster adjustment (and positive camber adjustment to correct too much neg on a lowered S30 chassis)

Any idea when PDK will start selling these again and why they stopped?

Excellent idea with a RB25DET it is the best option - I guess that is why Nissan used these boxes behind the RB25DET in the first place Please let know how your project goes maybe start a thread in the Members Project thread

depends on your power goals. A RB20DET/RB30 box will work but the question is how long will it hold together? The RB25DET boxes are not cheap $2000-$2500 a RB20DET box $350-$500 so that is 4 or 5 boxes you can go through before you are at the same $$. Or you could purchase on of the many internal upgrades for a RB20DET box that you can get in Australia (no idea on the cost) or use a S14/S15 5 spd and one of the upgrade gear sets from below or a number of places in Japan. Remember that the S14/S15 boxes are longer (better for the early 240z shells as the gear leaver matches the original type A setup but you need a shorter drive shaft. see http://www.albinsgear.com.au/images/products/200-close_ratio_gearbox_kits/3700-nissan_240k/nissan_240k.pdf and http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/products.htm#2 But by the time you do the new gear sets etc you are at the cost of a RB25DET box without paying someone to install the gearset + bearing etc. Power = increase your budget. If you can't afford the RB25DET don't spend the $$ on looking for more power until you have the drive train to match.

Only catch is finding a later R180 in long nose, well that is the case here in NZ

Big and long as it goes though the front wheels of the donor Nissan 4x4 vehicle. Here is pic of the donor axle

Z31 are hard to find in this part of the world and ones wth a FS5R30A even harder.

Yep a cut and shut for a installation behind a different engine and I would guess a v8 install.

Maybe I have seen one other box setup like this here in NZ too. It was for a 351 V8 conversion using an adaptor plate between the Ford V8 and the datsun box. Or it might be a different box ie FJ20 (not sure never seen an FJ20 box before....maybe a search of trademe will show a pic). The FJ20 box was often used here in NZ for 240z/260z race cars back in the day as they were later model (ie almost the last of the B boxes) and depending on the car the box came from sometimes had good ratios. However most just swap on the L6 bellhousing onto the FJ20 box.

No the 300zx calipers as in Z32 twin pots which is what this thread is about don't have the e-brake function this is done via a drum in hat arrangement.

maybe you could look into something like I am working on. Not sure what size the 6 x 1 cage goes onto but have a look at this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132252&page=4 This way you can use the standard R32 6 x 1 diff output flange/axles with a custom/hybrid setup like I am doing above.

And mine - and if you don't mind Rob I will put your above post on the ZClub.org.nz site so our local NZ members can also vote for your car

Keeping this thread on track - what size rims/tyres are you running on the 280zx they look1. Wide 2. Large

Not if you find the factory 71c with a L6 bellhousing like did here in NZ - it was from a JDM Laurel powered by a LD28 I think around the 86 vintage ie last of the LD28 just before the RD28 was used. However I have not pulled the box apart to see what the ratios are but given it was from a diesel I am guessing the ratios will not be that flash.

so is that your 280zx 2 seater in the background of the pic? I know there are only a handfull of them in Oz as they were never imported by Nissan for sale when new - so only private imports from Japan, NZ or other countries in the AP region. Lov'n the look on the 260z too.

off topic but I hate sites that don't work in Firefox - making me open IE.....ahhh.. Interesting technology.

The are designed for a R33 RB25DE, the spec is (from the Fujitsubo web site) Primaries = 42.7φ x6 collector = 50.8φ x2 and if I used the 2 into 1 bit but that was in the wrong place by far = 70.0φ for the final bit. http://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/product01.php?no=620-15072&reno=00000000000000002590

Excellent work and thanks for the pics and update/post. You also have the bonus of less weight in the rear due to the R180 vs R200 so that will be worth a bit and I am sure this centre and axles will be more than strong enough for a lot of the engines we hybridz'er run.

Well I can sort of comment - I mean sort of as I have RB26 head which as a different exhaust flange setup so I needed to have the header modified to suit the RB26 head anyway. But there is the basic story so far. I have a 260z which is the same floor plan as the US market 280z ie the floor on the pass side (your drivers side) is a little higher than on the 240z so I guess on a 240z more work would be required. I purchased a hybrid RB25/RB26 N/A engine from Japan that had a modified set of the Fujitsubo RB25DE header. This was modified already, it had a different flange for the RB26 head installed on it. When installing these on the car they were too close to the chassis rail and the floor so they were modified again. I didn't know how much of the stock header was removed when installing the RB26 flange at the time and to get the clearance I needed I had some extra length added so I could change the angle at which the pipes left the head so they whole header could be kicked down and inwards towards the block/gearbox. I also had some extra pipes put on the end to move the mounting flange away from the floor/chassis rail. So here are some pics. This is a pic of the standard RB25DE Fujitsubo header (this is my spare set that I just picked up for a good price. I am going to see if I can get these modified without adding the extra pipe at the head mounting flange) Here is a shot of the modified headers that I have (currently on the car) This is a close up of the extra pipe that is under the car And this is a close up of the head flange area On the engine in the car Different angle on the car And different angle again So there was a bit of work to get these to fit. I am hoping with the second set of headers that I got I will be able to change the angle when we put the head flange on the header so this can be done without the extra pipes around this area. This will allow me to take the set with the extra pipes and change these some more so when I install the taller RB30 block I will have a set of headers for that engine too.

Yes remember they are wider at the rear, ever seen a 2+2 bumper on a 2 seater? Maybe you haven't as you guys did not have the 240z style bumpers right up to 78 did you? Anyway they are about 1" wider on either side to allow for room for the seat in the back. I think the track is almost the same in the rear so that make the rear fender/guards wider to keep the lines good. I recall someone here in NZ purchasing a slam panel replacement form the US only to find it did not fit the 2+2 as it was too small = he on sold it and the panel beater had to fab one up.

Interesting work so if you take the 245 and /2 = 122.5 then x 3 = 367.5HP for a L6 head. Well we know that can be done look at what TonyD got with the 3.0 bonny car. He stated around 100HP per 1000cc at the wheels so that would be 300HP at the wheels which would be over 360HP at the engine = 367HP at the head so very do able.

Go out and get some of the new Mini rotors - these have the following spec 276mm x 22mm with 46mm total hat. So will work with the 280z/260z hub. Not a bolt on as the rotor needs to be redrilled and the centre hole machined out. here are the Brembo specs of the 260z/280z rotor, then the 300zx non turbo rotor and the mini rotor I have also included the Peugeot 504 rotor specs in the attachments too - these are not as easy to come by here in NZ which is why I say got the Mini path = newer car so more chance of getting them from a number of suppliers. But the Peugeot is a good fit. Another option is the Madza Rx7 rear rotor and a 240z hub as the specs of the rear rotor are 274mm x 20mm with a hat of 53mm. This is close to the 240z at 52mm. Again a redrill and centre hole change. And I am sure if I keep looking at the brembo catalogue I will find more. Hope this helps.

So to clear this up - if Courtesy Nissan and others only currently stock the LH inner this is the one with the right hand thread yes or no?

From the same place that makes the TB's EFI Hardware in Australia seehttp://www.efihardware.com/ I purchased mine from http://tweakit.net.au as the manufacture was not selling via his website like he does now. Not sure if I make an air box to go around these or purchase some of his mesh ram tube covers?

So tonight I spend a few hours in the garage getting the TB shafts the right length for the RB26 manifold - so here are the results. Can't want to get these on the car - however that will not happen until after the engine bay is painted.