NZeder

cool thanks for putting me straight on the rods issue but everything else I thought you would have done you in fact had done

Well I think there are different pistons remember this is a RB30DET ie RB30 bottom end with RB26DETT head so a custom piston would be required for the correct CR. But all other parts are bone stock RB30e parts, crank (no mods), rods (no mods) I think it will have good bearings and assume the rotating mass has been balanced you know standard stuff when you build an engine. I am sure Rob could clear this up but I think I am correct. So this does go to show that the stock rods are good for the power who needs $$ I or H beams when stock units are up to the task. Also those that say you can't rev a RB30 bottom end I think Rob has proved this wrong time and time again with his shops engines, he pulls this one to 9500rpm. However this is a drag car/engine so 9500rpm on a circuit might be a different story but then who would want to circuit race a car with over 1000hp that would be insane.

There is a website in Japan that shows a RB20DE/T head that is modified to for a RB30 bottom end (aka Tommy Kaira M30 first gen engine) and I can tell you it is a lot of work, welding, welding and more welding that water jackets so the head could then be worked for air required to feed a RB30 bottom end. So I would bin that idea and get a RB25DE/T or RB26DETT head. Re the RD crank. Why? If you have a RB30e bottom end why? Rob of RIPSNZ can rev his stockish bottom end to 9500rpm with no problems and 1000+ HP with the longer stroke so why change it 2mm is not worth all the extra effort and custom parts required. Maybe if the RB30e bottom end is hard to get (which here in NZ and OZ is not an issue.....might be one day when the supply dry's up) then you do the RB/RD hybrid and build a RB28/29 like others have already done. However this is using the RB25 bottom ends and a raiser plate I believe.

Does depend on the place you get it from but Octane is not how are fuel is rated but RON which put the Octane less than the figure on the RON scale I believe. But generally the full we get here in NZ is as follow 91 RON (regular unleaded) 95 RON (super unleaded) 98 RON (premium unleaded - limited locations) - this is what Rob is running I believe Race Gas/Av Gas (not road legal as it has Lead in it and no road taxes) 105-115 RON (depends on the gas really and the $$ spent) So our 98 would be like 93-95 Octane I believe. So yes we have crap fuel here not like the nice high Octane you can get in Japan etc.

Yep seen them a mate has that setup on a Ford Capri MK1. They work well and I did consider them at one stage for my rear conversion (still working on it - so I should have done it in the end as the head aches I am having with my original plan of the drum in hat has been more R&D that I expected.) I have some of the Hi-Spec Motorsport calipers that I am going to use on my rear conversion for the low/slim profile of the caliper but I should have purchased these calipers from them as they have a mechanical park/hand brake build in. see here for info and there is a pic also http://www.hispecbrake.co.uk/calipers/SVA%20VW%20LUG.htm Never know I might just still get some and flag my whole drum in hat setup.

yo880 I see you are in Sydney, if you want to run the Z32/R32 rear brake setup I would talk to the guys at Steward Wilkins Motorsport as they sell a custom CNC backing plate that installs on the stock strut. This has the mounting for the 2 pot caliper, for the little internal drum setup for the hand brake so all you need to do is redrill the 5x114.3 to 4x114.3 if staying with 4 stud. Not cheap but all the work is done already and they have had them certed before for use on Australian roads so might be worth the coin in the end.

Yep same PC correct brigade that now doubt tied to shut down speedway in Auckland....and those that campaign against Bay Park when that was around....the list goes on. Anyway the way I see it we need to have race cars and make noise so we can burn up the petrol so the PC brigade can be happy on the bi-cycles making us confirm to their greenie way while they control every aspect of our lives like communist. And look what that greenie save the trees stance has done to Australia - made forests/bush full of too much fuel Rant over. Back to the racing - it is all about the burning of fuel so we don't have issues like the bush fires in Australia....ok Rank over now.

And yes hasn't that brand caused a bit of stir - even made the national news the other day - so I am sure that will bring you some extra exposure at the next big meet at Meremere

wow when I spotted the pics from Pete about his OBX and your talk about how yours was assembled incorrectly - it had me thinking if my unit was wrong too. Now given I was one of the first - if not the first to get one of these on Hybridz and give it ago - however my car is still off the road and all I have done is assemble the unit into the diff and paint it ready for the body to get back from the body shop...... Anyway I went back to the old threads see here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107997&highlight=obx Back in 2006 - time just flys Anyway I found my pic of the unit I got and how it was assembled. You can see the difference vs the one from Pete.

lol ROTFL.....reminds me when I went to see this at the movies when it was a new flick - me and some mate took a bunch of girls - after the film we went to the normal make out spot - then we took off and climb up the trees then we the girls came past we jump out of the tress and yeild BRAINS....I can smell you BRAINS

nice thought but for me one of the things I liked about these gauges is this statement *For your LIFETIME, as long as you own the gauge- we guarantee it! http://www.speedhut.com/warranty_page.htm So I am not going touch/open the gauges just install them as I don't plan on sell my car in my LIFETIME

Build the RV8? Is that as in RV8 Aircraft? Sorry for the off topic question

Yes RD28 cranks can be used in the RB blocks - I have seen sites in Japan selling conversion kits that look to use the RD28 crank - give away was the RD28 and 83mm that you can make out in the Kanji. The issues is the rod/stroke ratio and low pin height required - I think they are using a spacer plate, different belt and longer head bolts etc.....maybe someone who read Kanji can do a translation or one of the members here who lives in Japan can tell us more see http://www.rising-web.jp/06price/06_04rb25base_engine.html I picked up RD28 starter motor as they are a gear reduction unit so should have better starting torque Were in NZ are you? Might be interested to put it into my shed and have a play later once my car is back on the road.

looking good Tony - but just one thing - I know that on the stock TC rod setup getting a header to pass through the gap between the block, TC mount and the firewall/floor can be a challenge. Looking at this setup it might just make that almost impossible? I am talking about NA setups here were the collector and all those pipes are coming together around this region of the chassis.

I did ask before my order was complete if they could do the idiot lights in the speedo and tacho before they left the factory - got told not an option but one can only ask. The lights in the tacho are shift lights

When I get that far I will post pics. Re the map light area - well the size of those lights I posted is 84mm as the max size of the facia. The facia is 84mm x 14mm and the unit is 35mm in depth. The PCB is higher than the 14mm but I will check the map light sizing tonight and see if there is enough room but my guess is yes.

At least that track is closer to home for you, not so far to trailer the car.

There might well be - I have posted a few time about using the Pathfinder V6 axles and then some other parts to make a hybrid axles that will have the 5 bolt on diff end like you require. There are a few posts/threads for you to check out http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143201 and http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132252&highlight=cv+shaft+length&page=4

Well my revolution gauges arrived today and I plan to solve the turn signal, brake warning, high beam dash lights with one of these units. These are sold and marketed in the UK to the kit car builder and custom motorcyclist They are available via few on-line places in the UK but click image to redirect to the lightninglooms website for more info and who sells them I plan on installing this were the reading map light is on the dash or maybe make up a custom pod and install on top of the steering cover between the two main gauges I will work it out once I have one of these in my hands

Maybe you could fab up a frame like these guy do for the MX5 for installing a V8 see there production section http://www.v8roadsters.com/Products/

You could do like this guy did with his R180 sub diff install. see http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143667 Just use the 4 cylinder units - cut up the wheel end CV and make it connect to the stock flange - job done

Yes update after the weekend meet at meremere would be good Rob

You might want to talk to RBZ260 on the AUSZCAR site or The SA Zed forum - thezgarge.com and then Marc (is it MarcS or MarcG?) and see if you could come up with a setup that uses both these guys ideas and you have more RX7 setup under the car with that A arm type setup and a spindle setup that will allow for camber changes via the new front strut. For caster could you not have this as the top of the strut? Here is RBZ260 front setup using Rx7 struts and spindles and I think a Mits ball joint to get the stock LCA to connect up to the spindles.

No you are not missing anything - that is about it - you then need to have companion flange made for the S30 wheel end to the CV end of the pathy 6 cylinder. The length is just a little shorter than the 300zxt that people do but then there are those (include me) that find the 300zxt shafts on the short side are too long and bind up - and this is what lead me to all this work with the pathy axles in the first place. Just to clear it up. R200 with S15 LSD - Check S15 output flanges (3x2) - Check 4 cylinder Pathy axle (3x2) EMPI part number 80-4703 - Check this a complete axles with the 3x2 inner bit. Replacement wheel end CV of 6 cylinder Pathy axle part number 87-9096 - Check A custom companion flange for the wheel bearing end - maybe someone should see if there is enough room just for a bolt on adaptor to go from the stock to the 5x1 bolt pattern. Results would be a complete bolt on solution This will make an axle that is 395mm long when compressed. As the S30 has a short side and long side when you make your custom companion flange at the wheel bearing end just make the one on the long side a bit thicker to make the difference in the length requirement - this as has the bonus of not have a long or short side axle just the same axle on both side = make one spare one up if are a racer and take that to the track and it can be used on both side The difference in the 300zxt shafts long to short is just under 1/2" ie 12mm is the actual number. So the long side companion flange can be 12mm thicker. Does this help?

This is one of the reasons I have been playing with the pathfinder axles see http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132252&highlight=cv+shaft+length&page=4 and http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143201 As these combo of parts makes an axle that will bolt up to the S15 diff output plug-ins.