NZeder

Not quite true. Nissan did not make the RB26DE it was the turning house AUTECH. You can purchase these cars/engine in Japan but they are not listed on any of Nissan's part or model line up so parts can be almost impossible to get. I too am going to build a N/A with triples still not 100% if it will be with DCOE throttle bodies that I have to DCOE carbs - depends if I want to put the car on the track, as local rules might mean I need carbs. My engine will be RB30DE made from a 30 bottom and 26 head. Why the 26 head - simple solid lifters = more revs = which is good for N/A power. I could have used a 25 head and converted to solid lifter but then the $$ is up to what I go my whole 26 engine for and I sold the block to make it cheaper. The engine was minus plenum and ITB but had the short manifold which I will make adapter plate to go from the RB26 ITB pattern to DCOE (bores are the same just different bolts spacing) and no turbo manifold or turbos. If some people think that is wrong - they can have their opinions but it is my engine and I will build the way I like.

Here is the tip. The partnumber 38335-N3100 that you guys are looking for I assume is a pre 80's etc partnumber ie before Nissan computerised the deal network etc this number does return as NLA but here is what I did "Well I thought I would pass on what I have just found out about the R200 bearing that is meant to be NLA. You just need to know more about where Nissan used the R200's. Here in NZ we are lucky to have a number of JDM imports so we see lots of these different cars. Anyway we mainly get our R200 these days from these JDM imports (260z/300zx with R200 you just don't see wrecking anymore). These cars are R30/R31 (Skyline), C31/C32 (Laurel), Y31 (Cedric), SY31 (Gloria), Z31 (300zx), F30/F31 (Leopard) just to name a few So this prompted me to check the Japanese copy of Nissan FAST that I have. So I picked on the R30 range for my searching. And the partnumber returned was 38335-N3200 which I then used to check if they number had been replaced and yep with 38335-N3210 and then 38335-N3220 I then put the partnumber I had found into the Nissan PartMaster part of FAST for all the versions I have. The Europe version came back with S130 as using the 38335-N3200 part so this tell me that the 10mm versions of the R200 also use/can take this same bearing. Now given this number has been replaced with 38335-N3220 I figured a quick google would show if some one still sells the part. Anyway 38335-N3220 is the last version of the partnumber for bearing in question and it is still available." Courtesy Nissan have it listed at $46.24 see http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=38335-N3220&Category_Code= So there you go about 1 hour of my time and some thought you have a different partnumber to try and as Edited above Chris will let us know if the sizing is the same :) Cheers Mike

Ok just so I am following this correctly the bearing that is NLA is the red one from this pic? pics do it for me

Not sure about this as I am not a subaru type guy. I know the sub's have the long nose R160 and R180's but I believe there are R200's used on the newer larger subaru's does anyone know if these are long nose or short nose? If long nose it might be just a matter of checking the Subaru partnumber and see if this is still available - remember that this has been found out before - just because the original partnumber comes back as NLA does not always mean that the part is NLA - I recall reading (not sure if here or another zed forum) but Nissan USA said a part was NLA but someone found out the same part was used on a 720 truck and it had a different partnumber but this part was available.

MONZTER those look great - I did not know you could get panasports in 16x8. I assume you have coilovers for the +19 offset. What size spring so you run? 8" or 10"? Here is a pic of my zed again this time with the new 16x8 +10 Rota RB-R and 225/45/16

Here are some more of those fins fitted to the S30. Also note the large drop tank? Or is that a kind of diffuser on the rear? I am leaning towards the drop tank idea as you can see the different GT40 style fuel filler on the side of the car.

Just found this post and I can't believe how off topic this has gone - from 70's Japanese Aero to a station wagon Vette---WTF how did that happen. I would like to know more about period specs and the different setups that were tried during the 70's. So back on topic - Alan thanks for posting those pics in the beginning I always love to see period photos of Zcars be they JDM racers, Europe or USA. It is just amazing to see the different approaches that were taken to try to improve things. I have seen may guys in the 90's try different things with aero on zcars, some only to do what has been pointed out in this thread - ie fully enclose/duct to the raditor (after trying the laying down, different radiator etc). So this has been good to see these pics, I am sure I will be looking at them over and over again many times. I am sure all these different aero changes is what lead to the difference in the ZG lower section to include the fins/ducts to the radiator for release to the general public? I have a question - off topic with regard to the aero but related to the period mods - I see the cars (in period) are running either 14" or maybe 15" (hard to tell) but what size rubber/rims were used on the ZG type B aero packages?

Don't know what your local laws are on the bent chassis rails but here in NZ I have heard of 3 zed's failing our WOF checks (Warrant of Fitness) and therefore not road legal (we have these checks every 6 months) = big expense to get the car back on the road.

Yes the problem is the fronts I have the stock rotor setup so without the extra spacer of the rotor like you have they will not fit on. They look good

You are correct I am looking for a S30 running 16" in the period that my car will be classified under 1969-1977

First thank to all for the replies/post this is the kind of info I am after. Hi Alan, yes 15" are permitted and we are currently finding out if 16" are also permitted. The rules state rims should be period looking (so just about any minilite replica is good) and have a min aspect ratio of 50 but there no statement about rim size. I know that during the mid 70's some Porsche's were running 16" so if they can run them we should be able too also.

Guys I have a question for all those that know the answer, if you don't want to publish the info on the forum please PM me that answers to what I seek. First the reason for this post. Our local race rules are changing and there currently are interpretation issues. But to cut to the chase if I can prove a setup was used in any racing during the period I can run with this setup on the car. The period is 1969-1977. And the car is the S30 range. I already now the stock setup can work with maintenance and correct pads/cooling etc - however I would like to fit the largest period correct setup I can. So this is what I know. Stock are 271mm x 12.5mm solid with twin piston caliper FIA options were 4 pot MK63 calipers in two types - one for the stock rotor the other for a vented rotor that was close to the stock sizing but 20mm thick (this is a close fit to the toyota/300zx hybridz setup) I know what the FIA Group 4 rules allowed and most cars during this period followed these rules and that was max 12" rotor with calipers/pads free (not sure on the thickness) What I want to know is what sizing was used in other classes ie SCCA C/Production etc. Looking at the "How to HOTROD and RACE your Datsun" in the rear is a list of the partnumbers for options that were available from "Datsun Competition Department" and there is a listing for the "H/A 4-wheel disc brake kit" however I would like to know what size this is. The front and rear share the same rotors so I assume these were just parts from another supplier ie AP/Lockheed of the time not a Nissan part at all but something "Datsun Competition put together and added to an options list for racers of the day. So can anyone tell what other sizes were run in the period - also if you have any period documentation that I can use that will also be helpful when I complete my documentation locally.

You can see the news clip here http://www.tv3.co.nz/VideoBrowseAll/NationalVideo/tabid/309/articleID/44400/cat/41/Default.aspx#video Big weekend for motorsport here in Auckland (well last week here in NZ was the A1GP so been busy motorsport all over), there was this large drag meet (just out side if Auckland at Meremere), then the Tasman series of classic racing with the F5000 cars (and a number of zed at in the support races and over 400 racecar in the meeting - lets say pit space was a problem) again just outside of Auckland in Pukekohe then there was motorcross in the Woodhill forest too

You are correct - however my local racing rules don't allow us to run cap anyway so it does not bother me that they don't fit. The issue is the cap is just too shallow (or the hub/bearing/spigot is just too long) if the car was a road car I think I would maybe make some custom caps....nah just paint the hub which is what I did.

I have to disagree as I have the 16x8 +10 and a 225 tyre fitted clears fine - however my tyres are 225/45/16 not 225/50/15. The issue is 260z/280z spring perches are lower than the 240z so they will not work on these cars. 240z should work fine - and no guard mods will be required for the 16x8 +10 on a 240z Here are some pics of the clearance at the front (rear is not a problem so no pic) - it is tight but it does clear with my tyre setup EDIT: You can see the rim protector design on the tyre gets close but it still clears fine.

see this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109117&highlight=bmw+balancer Sorry for the off topic stuff now back the rods

well that is funny I ordered 2 sets of the 15x8 RB and 1 set of the 16x8 RB-R and the 15x8 RB (as in standard RB) are the more curved rim with the 16x8 RB-R straighter - if there is a difference between 15 and 16 this might explain it a bit but there are some pics of mine - I have 16x8 +10 fitted to the car but it is at the dyno shop so don't have any pics of them on the car on the ground but no fender clearance issue however my rears were already trimmed for the 16x9 that used to be there. If you look at the silver rims (15x8 +12 RB) you will see the RB on the sticker - so who know either way the 16's look better IMHO

Another difference is the late 260z/280z fronts have the spring perch about 1" lower on the strut and therefore will not take a rim with more than approx 4.5" of backspace without coilovers (well that is what I have found out here in NZ with our RHD cars anyway - Rota RB 15x8 +12 and Rota RB-R 16x8 +10 will fit my 240z fine (these have approx 4.9" of backspace) but not my 260z as the rims fowl on the spring perch of the 260z struts, only on the fronts rears are fine)

It believe you have them the wrong way around (I have a set of each - well sold the 15x8 RB's that I imported as they did not fit my 240z with the larger roll centre spacer so installed the 16x8 RB-R) The RB's have are on the left and the RB-R is on the right ie the RB-R is the straighter spoke.

I noticed that these ebay rods were only stock L26/28 so starting thinking (again, never a good idea) has anyone used say the 1.5 sets of the SR20 rods = 136.3mm long, has 51mm journal vs L24/26/28/LD28 of 53mm and a larger 22mm pin. So take a LD28 offset grind and bring the journal down to 51mm. This would increase the stock, give a smaller rod end = more clearance (if that is a problem) then get your custom piston made to use this new rod/crank setup? I know what you mean re forged pistons - they cost a bit downunder as you have to import for the US usually. I thought you would have looked at the BMW balancer like lots of Ozzy's do - there used to be a guy in Melbourne that sold them already to bolt on.

Rob you coming up to Meremere for the big meeting this weekend?

The not fitting is the RB-R these one in the pic shown (standard RB's) have no issues. And I fixed it today - the issue was a coat of paint - that is all - well that and the casting of the hub. If you look at a stock hub it has rough casting and these high spots were the issue (with the thick coat of paint) so I remove the disc, and studs (as I was going to install longer wheel studs anyway) and then just hit the hub with a file to smooth out the casting marks then just painted black from a can all good now - this might have just been my hubs as when I did a search on this site for the hub sizing a found that they vary from 72.9mm to 72mm so mine just might have had a few more high spots than others. Hope this helps.

I don't have the 4x4 caliper but I can confirm that the RB have a lot of room for caliper clearances. See pics attached of a set of Rota RB 15x8 +12. Also the RB-R also have more than enough room too. However I have found that the RB centre bore is not quite large enough to sit flush on the hub so I am currently running a 1/4" spacer however later next week I plan to remove my front hubs and turn them down (only at the base where they tapper out this is the issue and we are talking under 1mm). I am going to mod the hub not the rim as this way only 2 hub need changing not 4 rims (or if like me you plan to have another set for wets then 8 rims) Hope this helps.

Here you go Rob http://www.zclub.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=780

excellent work Rob to you and your team. The car looks great. I hope you don't mind but I have posted some of the links to your pics on the NZ Z Club site - if you do mind I will pull them. Cheers Mike