NZeder

The quickest N/A car was a 240z with a 13.42 and a slipping clutch at 173km/h so should be a mid 12 sec car (car is built for the circuit not drags as 3.9 diff) Fastest 240z was 12.72 - a targa built car with supercharged LS1 with 4lbs boost. The 1000hp Supra dumped all the trans oil up the entire strip = 1 hour later for the clean up. I think it ran a mid 12 before the issue - I was not that interested wrong model of car (it had drag slicks too). Some 300zx Z32 running around the 13's. And 2 289 mustangs doing 15-14's all day long. Looking forward to seeing the car in the future

ok if the 6 bolt type I then I think they will be the same as the Z31 non turbo = too long unless you find another shaft (or have a custom one made). But there are some 4 bolt R31 (not sure about R30 when I think about it) around.

If I remember correctly the DR30 and R31 turbo coupe CV axles are the same same 4 bolt type as used in the Z31 ie the same length = the same shafts.

excellent run Rob, shame you had issues would have been good if you had of made it to the zclub drags today - you would have had lots of runs as there was a small number of cars = lots of runs for all.

You will need very very large spacer - I would look a different rims as you would be looking at a 30mm spacer for the front and a 50mm for the rear

I have one - well it is not together yet but it will be 10:1 CR using N42 block and head, Stock L28 rods, and Crank with some old stock TOMEI 90mm pistons = 3015cc my cam is a custom grind and the engine will be running triple DCOE throttle bodies (when I complete the project). The N42 head had to have alloy removed to get it down to 10:1 due to the larger bore at 90mm (ie 4 mm over or 0.160) As stated the engine is not together bottom end is complete and head is complete I just need some more $$ for a few minor things and the body work of the car to be complete. This is going in my road zed so 10:1 is required so I can run pump gas so it will be mild time will tell when I get it on a dyno when I get that far.

second that comment. Yep they made 4 stud skyline's alright there a many of them here in NZ - R32 and some R33 all usually Non-turbo some were only CA18 or CA20 powered too but most just RB20E or RB20DE. Here is a few pics.

0 offset would be perfect for stock fenders/guards but with ZG you will want a bit of negative offset to push the wheel out to fill the ZG overfenders. Most run 8.5" -6mm front and 9.5" -19mm with ZG flares in Japan so if you want 7" and 8" (having been there and since sold the rims as they did not fill the guards enough) you should be looking around the -20mm to -25mm offset which is a lot then then you start adding too much load on the bearings due to the track changes etc.

You are correct with the clutch cover height - I had a few different height collar from RB and L6/L4's lining around and I will just use one that works best - my gearbox/motor are still out of the car but I have one that will work - the problem is I can't tell you which box it was from as they all got mixed up at one point.

Not quite right I have a set of 16x8.5 -6 and 16x9.5 -19 rs watanabes and I can confirm they have 4.5" backspace so the maths is more like Width (in) Offset(mm) Backspacing (in) 8.5j -6(mm) 4.514(in) 9.5j -19(mm) 4.502(in) This is because a rim is measured bead to bead not lip to lip. If you measure a rim lip to lip then the watanabes would be approx 16x9.5 -6 and 16x10.5 -19 but this is not how rims are measured so we don't say that. And a 4.5" backspace will clear stock springs and spring perches hence the sizing that is recommended by rs watanabe. Hope this clears this up abit - and this has been covered on a number of threads before - how to correctly calculate the BS of a rims given the manufactured method of meassuring rims (that is bead to bead)

Well I am using a RB25DET clutch and flywheel on my L28 - so if they work that way round then surely the will work the other

I have RS Watanabes for my zed which has stock spring perches and lowered spring like your setup. The rims I have are 16x8.5 -6 and 16x9.5 -19. I have 225/50/16 on the fronts and 245/45/16 on the 9.5" on the rear. The only pics I have are with no springs installed so I could check the rear custom flare and inner guard so I have blocks of wood that are just a little under a fully bound spring = the car will not get this low on the road. The rims clear the stock spring perches with no issues. You can see a few pics here on my website. http://nzeder.net/phpws/index.php?module=photoalbum&PHPWS_Album_op=view&PHPWS_Album_id=7

lol that is a relative comment you see those of us which have the steering wheel on the other size don't have these issues with the RB engine and there is more room for the L series too

You are right most go the DET path. There have been a few DE builds - the one for the 240z that Rob talked about, I know of another one that was/is getting build for a 240z but triple carbs and a dizzy - required for the race class this car is in (a zed owner convinced the race organiser that since the RB engine has a connection to the S20 432 engine that he could run, others are now doing the same, with an RB30DE but they agreed if it was triple carbed and has a dizzy like the 432 S20 power PS30's) There is two others that I heard of one in a Nissan Patrol 4x4 and a Skyline and I am sure there are others too. We have a few RB25DE R32/R33/R34 Skylines on the roads too.

There are few NZ here just check our locations and as you well know some guys that have been building RB30DE/T for a long time too for the Skyline and 200sx (S13,S14,S15) drift crowd.

If I recall the Graham car runs triple throttle bodies not too different to the ones that I have so if you factor in some drive train losses of around 28% then that should make around 288HP at the wheels which is ok but I could have thought more would be possible given I know of a L28 3.0 that makes close to that. I know of a L28 Reg Cook engine (local well known Nissan engine builder - I believe he has made a A15 with 200HP yep 1500cc and 200hp - even the Japanese were impressed back in the 80's when he did this) - back to the Reg Cook engine it was an L28 with just a 0.5mm overbore and it make 250HP at the wheels. Of cause one Dyno can read more than the next and it can vary day to day - so this is not really anything to go by.

I know of the car - I meant to say Graham but I thought Gavin - that is Graham Lucas's car painted red white and blue - my brother blasted the body shell a few years back. I am a Lucas too but not related.

Is that Gavin's 240z, Or was it Kevin's (no I don't think he got his installed in the car) or there is another one that I know of that Homewood is working on? North Island or South? I would love to see this car and talk to both the owner and builder

Ok cool you know the part I am taking about. Then this will help. The spacing of the ports on this manifold is almost the same as DCOE so close it is not funny and this is why some use the RB26 TB's to make a triple throttle body setup on a DCOE manifold. Anyway the bolt spacing is different more like IDA so the plan is to make an adapter plate that will bolt to this manifold change the bolt pattern to DCOE and be at thickness that we calculate what we require to get the best flow from this whole combo - like you have said from the trumpets to the valve it should be X long. The plan is to install the DCOE throttle bodies at a location so the throttle plates are Y from the valve and having a trumpet that is Z long thus giving the required result (assuming this all works in the space between the strut tower and head). Here is some info on the throttle bodies I have and that I will part with. These are 45mm with the pro series trumpets as shown in the pic. These come with fuel rails for Jap 11mm O-ring top feed injectors (but I also have some 14mm fuel rails that I could part with for extra). One TB has the D shaft mod for the included TPS switch/sensor. Also includes all balance joiner and a cable pull arm/linkage. Info about the TB's from manufacture. **Throttle bodies are manufactured from heat treaded 601 Aluminum alloy and are CNC machined. The brass shafts run on bearings with the butterflies secured by split screws for ease of servicing and reliability. The butterflies have .0005" tolerance fit to ensure good balance and fit while the injector bose placement is positioned to ensure good fuel atomization. **The Pro-series rum tubes have been designed using advanced computer modeling and a flow bench to obtain the best flow. They feature a full 270 degree return on the bell mouth for additional draw. **Linkages are manufactured from 6061 aluminum and reamed finished where the shaft mounts to obtain a slip proof fit. They come anodized blue for a smart appearance." These retail here in NZ for close to $3000NZD. My loss is your gain. Selling as I have had a project change and these are no longer required (sold my 280zx that these were going on, with a L28) Suit any DCOE intake manifold. I am after $1900 NZD which using a 0.75 USD to NZD (exchange rate from the other day) = $1425 USD. Shipping from NZ to US should not be too bad as they are light and will go into a smallish box. I also have some RB25DET injectors and for some extra I could include some 14mm o-ring fuel rail too so you will have a choice of what injectors you want to run. Here are some pics of one of the units that I have unpacked - the others are still as I got them (wrapped in bubble wrap)

I had a good look at the 3 RB30 block at the engine builders the other day none had cracks where your did - they had some casting marks in this area by no cracks - so let hope this new one you have will just be the same as the 3 I have seen apart - my RB30E is still complete - I need to strip this - a weekends job in the future no doubt - thanks for the heads up on the N1 water pump - might pickup a standard 26 water pump too then - I thought the N1 is anti-cavitation and flows more = better yes? The thermostat should control the temp so I would have thought an N1 would be good? The head I got was missing both intake and exhaust manifolds (much like the one you are getting by the sounds) so it was missing the stock Throttle bodies outwards. So the little manifold that goes from the head to where the TB's mount on was still there (I will see if I can find a pic on the interweb thing). I will find a pic - it will help explain it.....what this space - I will edit this post. Can't find a pic of what I am looking for so I will take a pic tonight when I get home - I will also show you a pic of one of the DCOE Throttle bodies I have.

Cool - I am putting triple DCOE throttle bodies on mine when I get there. I also have another set of DCOE throttle bodies that I am selling - 45mm straight bore (my new ones are 50-48-45mm tapered bore) these 45mm units have never been used. Anyway the RB26 should flow more than well enough for N/A applications and the solid lifters will help with the 7.5-8K RPM range I think we should be able to the 280ps at the flywheel like the stock RB26DETT. If L28's (well strokers) can put out 300+ HP at the flywheel then a RB30DE should too. I currently have the following for my build RB30E -complete RB26 head (sold all the bottom end stuff) H-Beam rods Metal Tomei 1.0mm head gasket Timing Belt/Tensioner for Hybrid RB30DE N1 water pump N1 oil pump Z31 200ZR sump/pickup LinkPlus G3 ECU ARP head and Main studs Need to do: JE pistons (waiting for $$ and NZ vs US $$ to get better) Custom CAMs on bullit shafts Head recon with new cams etc Make adapters from RB26 TB mounting to DCOE mounting (should be simple as the spacing is the same just need to change the bolt mounting) strip RB30E for rebuild Have my 260z body complete Wire in ECU yada yada

Engine bay of a R32 TommyKaira - uses RB30e bottom end and a RB26 head converted to N/A meant to have 280ps = same as the RB26DETT in stock form.

Well I thought I would start this thread given there is not much info on this site about the RB26DE's or RB30DE or RB30D's that have been build by different people. So I want to see what others know about these builds. First off we all know that the RB30DE or RB30D (ie Carbs) are not an official engine but a hybrid or custom build. Then there is the RB26DE build by Autech for the 4 door 4wd auto R32 thing. I believe only about 200 of these engines/cars were build = very rare. We all know the RB30E was only available in a few select countries Australia, New Zealand, South Africa ??? anywhere else? Not even in Japan. A Japanese tuning house (I am not sure who but much like Autech I assume) did make a few RB30DE engines for the R31 and R32 Skylines. There were marketed as the Tommy Kaira special (R31 and R32) and the R31 Hartge Limited Edition (only 3?). These RB30DE for the Tommy Kaira and Hartge Limited what were they made from? Did they use the a RB30E block or a modified RB2? block (I can't find out if it was a RB20 block or RB25 or even the RB26 block, but given the RB25/26 block did not come out until the R32 I assume a modified RB20 block) custom crank (or the RD28 crank) RB20DET rods and a custom piston. All this with the following specs. Bore = 87mm Stroke = 83mm CC = 2960 These engines were badged as M30 in both the Tommy Kaira and Hartge models. The RB26DE was just a RB26DETT without the turbos, custom forged pistons and different ECU programming and Cam shafts these were rated at 220ps (not bad given the RB26DETT was rates at 280ps at the same time) Ok that is all that I know so far about these RB26DE and M30 (RB30DE) engines. Here are few links to some nice pics of these engines - they are in Japanese so if you use some translation software you can sort of work out some of the info. R31 Hartge info M30 Rebuild - nice headers A few R31 powered by M30, RB26DE and RB25DE Build of RB30DE using RB30E block and RB26 head - The Furukawa R31 I will add more as I find info out. If anyone else has info or can correct me then please do so - I want to learn more about these engines and how they were built ie the M30 at 87mm and 83mm was this a hybrid like the L28 stokers ie RD28 crank (which is 83mm) and a sleeved RB20DE/T block. Does anyone know the block height and rod length of the RB20DE/T would this hybrid RB/RD engine work - does anyone know? And here are some pics of a RB26DE (not mine I only wish) and a scanned copy of the TommyKaira sales brocher it state 240ps UPDATE: I did find on another Japanese site that they stated the M30 was made from the RB30E block - however it did not state if they used the RB30E crank so maybe this was a custom build using RB30E bottom end, RD28 or Custom 83mm crank (could it have been a fully counter weighted unit?) different rods and pistons with a modified RB20DE head (this I believe is the case it was a modified RB20DE head) see M30 on a crate

Not really. And I don't want to hi-jack your thread more than I already have with more links to these RB30DE/RB26DE builds. You see I picked up a RB26 without the turbos and mainfolds that I was going to build as a RB26DE for my 260z (ie keeping it 2600cc and N/A) with my triple DCOE throttle bodies but my engine builder said it would have to spin hard to make any good power (ie 9000+ rpm = $$$) so told me to pickup a RB30e bottom end which I did. This engine project is on hold as I purchased another zed so $$ have to be saved again (hard when you have 2 zed to spend $$ on) Anyway as a result I have done a fair bit of searching on RB30DE builds and have a few link with pics of RB30DE's or the odd rare Autech RB26DE I could not find if this 240ps was at the crank of rear wheel I am guessing crank as the RB26DE that Autech build was 220ps at the crank. 210rwhp would be about 270hp and the crank? L28's can make 210rwhp without too much trouble in N/A form so I am hoping when we do my RB30DE (with the $$ to do the conversion, build etc) more than that and then some as a road car running on pump gas (ie keeping it around 10 - 10.5:1 CR). This is one of the reasons for the 26 head = solid lifters = higher rpm and they flow well with next to no work, have good valve's yada yada.

I know these guys sell ARP studs for RB30 both head and main and they ship internationally too. see tweakit.net