NZeder

No guys not a S20. That is a TC24-B1 head on a L6 bottom end with a custom twin turbo setup. The TC24-B1 head was a custom made head by O.S.Giken of Japan. They were cast using a wood mold I believe = no long available. I believe they made two versions of the head. The first are the better ones however I heard that there were only about 3 left today. So if you want one. First you will have to find someone who wants to part with theirs (yea right) then you will need to sell your house + wife and kids to even get a look in at a purchase Lovely setup non the less and I bet it must go. Here is pic of the S20 engine you will see the differences.

Were is that from - I have having trouble finding flattops here in NZ? Is that Stewart Wilkins Motorsport in Sydney? I might have to get pistons from AUS then and go with the 87mm flattop (even 86mm or 86.5mm would be fine if the bore are good...this is usually the case. I have not seen many L6 that have a lot of ware, usually a hone is all that is needed tops not a bore) And at that price I can then spend the engine budget on the areas that need it ie more head work

See http://www.escort-us.com/piston/nissan_c.html#3 I am thinking the same for one of my spare engine (installing a stock L28 to get the car back on the road + to sort out my MegaSquirt setup) then build up a good 3.0l using L28 rods and crank with 89mm pistons like the ones they have listed (or maybe even a good 2.9) spending more time and $$ on the head

George, The early skyline's were never imported/sold in the US. However there are a few private imports I believe. I also believe they never got the S15 Silva/200sx/240sx (depends on the market and engine size as to the name of the car ) To that end it is a bit like NZ were the Skylines were never officially imported/sold either however we do get a lot of JDM imports so we are lucky over there really. Skylines that I know that were sold in NZ new were the C110 (aka 240K GT) and I think that is about it all the others were private or dealer imports ie C210, R30, R31, R32, R33 and R34. I would love to know if there are any C10 in the country a KGC10 would be good to see in the flesh

How do you get $900 ($700 + 200) The complete Kit is 499,000 YEN which is more like $4000 USD.

George, I purchased some RB20DE (190cc I believe) (not DET as Dad's Fairlady is L20e not L20et) injectors from Trademe for $6 and $3.50 postage. I then just had them serviced/tested/cleaned cost more than I was expecting but they are all now flowing the same etc (cost $250 F.Y.I for all the US guys that is NZD or funny money to you) this is still a lot better than new injectors (infact I did not need to do the service/clean but I did this as a matter of knowing what I have to work with) So for you with your L20ET pick up some RB20DET or RB25DE injectors (I think these are red and should be 270cc 11mm o-ring injectors) these should be good for the L20et if you are not looking for more than 220-250hp (I would assume max for the L20et engine anyway) Then use the PAllnet 11mm o-ring rail. Remove the drop down resistors from the injector loom (this assumes you have these like most of the L28/L20 I have seen) I am sure others who have done that can add more as I have not done this yet - but will be. Hope this is of some use

Get the Peter Allnet's units. I have one already ( L28 ) and another one on order for Dad's L20e. Here is a link to his website PAllnet he uses PayPal and for the shipping to NZ when adding to your cart just add the shipping fee twice $14 x 2 = $28 USD. Are you upgrading to o-ring injectors? or sticking with the hose tail? I went o-ring 11mm for my RB injectors I picked up from Trademe (will have to modify the harness as these are high impenance injectors compared to the stock low units = mine is easy as it was a carb car = new harness anyway, Dads has drop resistors on the firewall so I just need to remove these and then he is in business ) Cheers Mike

I can't recall (who or if I read it somewhere) but I do remember someone telling me once that the L20 cam has a lot more meet and is good to use for putting a grind on to. So maybe this is what has been done to the L20 cam you have in this engine.

Cool now you know - re-stamped engine number. I checked Dad L20 Block = M3 or M8 (could not make it out 100%)

Might be possible. L20a = 69.7mm stroke, 79mm bore = 2000cc L20a block with L28 crank and rods = 79mm stroke, 79mm bore = 2300cc L20a block with 0.160 over bore, L28 crank and rods = 79mm stroke, 83mm bore = 2600cc ie a L26. I know the P30 blocks (ie L24 and L26 block) can be bored to 86mm so if the L20 blocks have the same water jackets etc of the L24/L26 blocks then it should be possible. Best way to tell is get the block casting number, ie P30, N42, F54 (does anyone know that a L20 block should be? I can look at Dad's L20 tomorrow when I visit his place (just don't know right now)

Sorry for the slight highjack nitr0, you could pick up a L20ET from a skyline, leopard or laurel (the laurel is the best I have been told as these are a larger car and have the same downpipe etc of the L28ET found in the USA). Then pickup a F54/P90 NA motor from a 280zx 81 or above send me the flat - pistons install some N42 pistons and bolt all the L20ET stuff on (replacing the turbo with a Z31 single turbo larger and better than the L20ET unit). Use the L20ET cam - or have this re ground as these have lots of meat. And one more thing use Z31 turbo injectors if you want to have hole tail type. This will give you the same setup as the L28ET from the US but without the shipping expence = you could use the $$ saved to purchase some nice forged pistons. Or I can sell you all these bits from my Laurel I will be visiting Melbourne on business in early January so I could put into a box and take as luggage (If I travel light on the rest of the luggage) However I will be keeping the Cam. Back to the topic RB30 here in NZ they are becoming harder to find now also as most are getting used up by the import crew for building RB30DET and installing into drag cars, drift cars, race cars and the old wild street car a Clint.

So how does it compare to your turboed car for power delivery?

No I forgot to get some - I will see if I can get some when I return to NZ - I am O/S on business right now.

What size wheels are you looking to replicate? 15" or 16" and how wide?

Well the steel metal worker looking to replicating the chrome trim for me (note replica not copy ie same material = stainless steel) said it would be too costly to create the tooling to get the double bend from stainless (almost like a very wide and flat U shape). So I have ordered a new set from Japan (the set I got with my G-Nose was missing one side of the chrome trim and the covers were cracked). So I have now being thinking of making the bands out of something else and using some of these chrome paints that are around these days - maybe a plastic, other option is brass then get this chromed. The really cheap and nasty option would be to get a set of covers make and just paint the edge chrome. Next step is to replicate the covers and come back to the trim later.

Funny you should say that - the running gear is the same as the R30 Skyline's that we also got here in NZ. And I plan on using the front suspension is my 120Y coupe (B210) as it looks to be a straight swap. I will install a L16 and dogleg 5 spd I have to create a 160Z replica (in South Africa and in Japan the B210 was sold with the L4). In S.A they were called 140Z (L14 power) and 160Z(L16 power) both fitted with twin dellortos from the dealer. In Japan they were called Nissan Sunny Excellent again fitted with either the L14 or L16. I plan to build this as a run little track car they are under 815kg in road trim so with cage and bits I should get to about the same or less and have some fun on a cheap budget. The first pic of the Cedric aka 260c hardtop we did not get here in NZ we only got the 4 door (non hardtop ie doors with frames). However there might be some private imports of the hardtops. How about this beast a 810 fitted with a different front end called a Bluebird GT and fitted with the L20a from the factory.

I would go for the Nissan C31 Laurel, I have one I picked up for $100 NZD = $73 USD, got it for the R200 diff, front suspension (going to use that in another future project - bigger disc brakes + vented at that) and maybe some of the engine bits. It is a Laurel Medalist Turbo. It is powered by a L20ET so sticking a L28ET would be easy + big power gain. It would be a real wolf in sheeps clothing. Or find a Cedric (260c is what they were called locally here in NZ)of the late 70's a C330 here is a pic of the hardtop - fitted with L26 = again easy swap. Here are a few pics of my Laurel

True Yes it would be good to know I know the feeling - can't wait to see your car when it is complete. So did you sell that twin turbo THRUST RHD setup in the end (I think it was you I talked/emailed about 1 year ago now)

RS Watanabe's are the business but I am sure there would be a market for the same size in Rewinds if they were to make them (I am sure there would be a number of people who would go for ZG overfender + wider rims if the rims were on the right side of their budget). I have a set of the Watanabe's in the same size a 240ztt but I would happily purchase a set of Rewinds in the same size (16x8.5 -6 and 16x9.5 -19)

The LZ22S piston is not designed for high RPM in fact I recall seeing in an article that stated they would be not good above 5000rpm. I am/was thinking the same my self, L28 crank, L24 rods and a piston with a 35.5mm pin height to give a better rod/stroke ratio much closer to the L24 ratio. Has anyone used the pistons from LZ20 or LZ22s and is the higher RPM an issue?

L28 = 130.3mm C-2-C L24 = 133mm C-2-C L20et rods I believe are also 133mm C-2-C (this is what the Japanese use to build 3.1, I will know more when I pull my L20et to bids - some of the L20a also use 133mm C-2-C I believe) If you have not heard of a L20et don't worry it is a JDM engine that we also get here in NZ (shares a lot of parts with the L28et ie exhaust manifold, dizzy (some have a different model), oil pump, down pipe that is about it) Cheers Mike

"RS Watanabe's 8 Spoke Type R" I believe is the full description of my rims.

Thanks for the comments - when test fitting my wheels on Dad's car I installed the 8.5" on the front and the 9.5" on the rear. The fronts tires are 225/50/16 and the rear tires are 245/45/16. Hope that clears things up a little.

if you visit my site your questions will be answered with pics but tire = 225/50/16 on 16x8.5-6 on the fronts. Yes this was installed on dads car with stock fenders but there will be clearance issues (see pics on my site). These wheels are for my car which is flared - I need to check the BS to make sure I did not need coilovers (suspension still out of my car).