NZeder

Sorry - locked spool gone already a Zed racer here in NZ is interested in it.

Re the LSD long nose thing - well I might have a few options for you now or in the future. The now - I could sell you a locked spool that you install in the center to lock the two axles together PM me your email address and I will send to a pic and price. The future - Once I get my new LSD (Torsen) setup I will be removing my R200 longnose 3.9 CLSD and putting that up for sale (to get some of the $$ back on the Torsen unit)

How is this then Skyline R32 gearbox specs:

I know some one is Australia has done the non DE head - so I am sure a DE should be do-able. See http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112888&highlight=ka24+head for more links to this conversion. DAW is correct the L20B crank in he Z20/Z22 block would be the way to go. I was thinking about this for one of my projects but I have purchased a CA18DE for that now.

Here is a pic of my gold watanabes on my car and a pic of them fitted to Dad's zed, my was orginially green and I am going to keep it green. Dad Zed with my wheels - test fit before I install the suspension back in my car

haha haha....no you pull the sump off - the thread was somewhat hi-jacked before I posted that. So back to the topic - of the other ways listed above, put it on a dyno yada yada yada (re the dyno stuff well here in NZ on a Dyno day the club had a number of years ago about 4 of our local racing zeds (240z/260z all with L28 fitted) put down over 150rwhp and I know 3 were non strokers so the comment about 110rwhp for a non stroker vs 130rwhp for a stoker I just don't by into that one) But the only sure way is to measure the stroke either with one of the fancy methods listed above or remove the sump and look for the V07 (unless the crank as had some serious prep work and this has been ground/polished off, yes I have seen this done) or just measure the stroke then. Ok no more about ebay - auctions and getting beaten at the list minute yada yada.

Off topic about the auction stuff and all but the auction site here in NZ has a feature that allows the auction to auto extend past the end time if a bid comes in - extra 2 minutes - I once watched an auction go an extra 30 minutes as the bids kept coming in -until the guy who wanted the parts more (spending more $$) forced the other guy out, the way they kept bidding you could have purchased new parts for the same as these second hard ones there were listed

All this stuff about checking the crank is good - look for t he V07 etc. But what if the builder used a custom crank like the one ArizonaZcar used to sell or the V07 is removed along with the other casting marks? How could you tell then - you would have to measure the stroke = disassemble. Sorry I through a spanner in the works. You have to assume nothing with an unknown engine.

MSnSE 029q2 has support for 6 spark outputs - so you could do COP (coil on plug) So what would be best a autronic trigger disk and the 2nd trigger circuit/setup or just go for a 36-1 or 60-2 wheel with a pick? If I go with the missing tooth setup what is a good Hall sensor to use? Or will it have to be a VR type sensor? I am thinking I could custom make a disk for the 280zxt CAS dizzy that would be a missing tooth setup - would this work (in wasted spark setup I would not need the rotor or dizzy cap. Cheers Mike

Not 6 but 3 - remember 6 cylinder = 120 degree firing order during the total 720 cycle. The CAS in the dizzy or cam (as in the RB/VG stuff) have 6 as the spin at 1/2 crank speed. If you look close enough you can see the second pick/magnett (or whatever they are) on the left just above the oil pump (hard to tell because of the black paint the engine imported put on the pully). I believe the single these CAS units put out is the same as those from the 280ZXT dizzy CAS.

Or you could look in my Gallery Here is the one from my Gallery

Ok I found the answer replace the stock trigger disk with one from these guys http://www.autronic.com/page_files/trigger_disks.htm Given that I have read that a number of guys use the VG30 internals in the 280zxt dizzy then I will pick up one of these units (and maybe the CA18 for my other car + the RB30 unit so I do go down the install a RB CAS in the dizzy hole path then have this for Just in Case). I will then follow the 2nd trigger setup as stated here http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/wheel2.html I have contacted the local dealer and I am now waiting to hear back re these disks

Anybody tried the WS setup using 3 x VB921 and MSNSe? On either a V2.2 or V3 board? I have been doing a bit of reading about this and my only real question is could I use the stock 280zxt dizzy as my CAS for this type of setup. Anybody know? Looking at the MSNS site under using Distributor Setup I see this pic so I guess it would be possible So I have not installed my MS yet - only just completed building it (I have been waiting for the time and more work to be done on the body work) I have a v2.2 board with the flyback daugther board so I am thinking of building another board to hold the 3 x VB921's and resistors etc. and for a WS setup from day zero.

Any update on this project turbobluestreak?

It is a very very simple task - where in NZ are you if you are in Auckland I can show you how to swap the oil pumps/drive over. If you are planning to turn your new L28E into a L28ET using the L20ET stuff that is again simple the L20ET exhaust manifold is the same as the L28ET and the oil pump is the same also the turbo pump is different to the stock L28E unit so you will want to swap these over anyway. First drain the oil (you don't have to but it will be much much cleaner and you wont spill much oil - you will drop some as the pump will have some left in it) So first set both engine at TDC. Unbolt and remove the dizzy from the L28E then from the L20ET. Now unbolt the 4 outter bolts from the oil pumps (these are long, 2 are longer than the others) remove the oil pump (you might need a rubber hammer to break the gasket seal) becareful as the dizzy/oil drive shaft will come out with it (of course you took photos or noted how the dizzy end of the shaft was sitting before you removed the oil pump so you can install this back at the same place = timing back at the same point). Then just do the reverse to install the turbo pump and drive in the L28E block. Install the dizzy, manifolds etc, install the engine (with bigger injectors of course and using the L28 manifold as I think it will have bigger intake ports - not sure) have fun will more cc = power/torque Now I could help you out but you must give me your first born no only kidding about that - I could give you a oil pump drive shaft and turbo oil pump (second hand) but I would need the drive shaft and oil pump from your L20ET to replace the one I give you so I can use them on my engine build when I start it. What ECU will you be using? I have an unassembled megasquirt v2.2 I could sell you (I will assemble if you require it)

KA24DE - downunder - yep rare alright. Not sure it would be worth the effort as I believe some of the 240sx guys pull the KA24DE engine and install CA18DET or SR20DET as they have more HP/work potential. Not sure what DAW has in mind in building a L20B hybrid see the link to the other thread in this first post - maybe he want to install a CA18DE head onto a L20b bottom end? Not sure of the bore/head bolt spacing between the two but as some say the CA is a 4 cylinder RB and I know that the RB has the same bore spacing/head bolt locations as the L6 so unless this is his plan? Who knows?

Carrying on from http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112575 without the hi-jack Ok got a link to site that explains how they put a KA24 head onto a L20b bottom end. This work was done in Australia enjoy. http://zac510.ozdat.com/

Ok got some answers for you With the last statement - I have heard that a KA24DE head can be made to fit a L4 bottom end, I have no idea what is involved but I am trying to get a copy of a video of a complete engine on a Dyno that I believe exists. End Hi-Jack DAW - if I get that video I will post in a new thread

I don't know the answer to that one - it is a good question, I might know someone who can answer that - I will get back to you - watch this space.

Guys please don't call the Z20/Z22/Z24 engine a LZ anything they were never called LZ engine. The LZ engine was in fact a rare factory Twin Cam head that was fitted to L14/L16/L18 and L20B bottom ends for works rally cars and also used in the formula pacific class of open wheelers in the 70's/80's see here for info on these head/engine http://www.datrats.com.au/lz_twin_cams.htm (I believe the blocks were also slightly different, ie they used fully counter weighted cranks, longer rods, different custom pistons, timing gear etc)

I believe so. But the question would be why? The NAP Z cross flow heads are designed for economy/low polution = not a performance head, well that is what I am lead to believe.

94mm bore on a LD28 Block (227.45 high) LD28 crank, Z22E rods (149.5mm), 94mm piston with 36.45mm pin height = 3456cc with 1.8 rod/stroke (same as the L24) and 11.8:1 CR - wow big number I would guess - one question - head gasket, well make that two - taking the LD28 block out 9.5mm = hell of a lot, assume resleeve EDIT: Make that three - those VW pistons you talk about these are not the ones with the 36.6 pin height and big big pin of 24mm - so assume you would go custom = right pin size, better rings to help that bady rev. You are mad...great idea and one more thing - will you get the head to breath enough to handle the potential power a 3.5 could produce

cool that explains it then

Not all RB20 boxes are the same The RB20DET from a R32 GTST Type M is differnet to the RB20DE box. I believe the RB25DE and RB20DET boxes are the same - the RB25DET is a different box altogether it is not a FS5W71C like the S13/14/R31/R32/R33 types. You can only get these RB25DET boxes from GTST R33 and above as there were not RB25DET R32's from the factory. Back to the FS5W71C boxes I believe there are a few different types - some have dual cone syncros on 2nd only others have these dual cones on 2nd and 3rd (the RB20DET is one that has both) also I believe most of the boxes have alloy selector forks however I am lead to believe the RB20DET/RB25DE boxes have steel selector = stonger again (I will tell you once I pull apart my RB20DET box that I have when I do the conversion to L6 bellhousing). I have also read that the RB box is shorter compaired to the SR/CA 71C box 845.5mm tail vs 795.5mm for the RB and that a 280zx auto mount can be used with only minor sloting of the bolt holes to mount the RB box to a 240/260z (again once I get hold I one I can tell you this also) Re the statement about handling the torque well the RB30e fitted to the Aussie build VL commodore has good torque and used these FS5W71C boxes (I know they have the alloy forks) so again for the guys in Aussie/NZ another option is these units also - wow lots of FS5W71C to chose from, you can find them all over the place - not like the 240z/260z/280zx 71B boxes these days EDIT: also a number of Japanese firms make close ratio gear sets for these 71C boxes ie OS Giken, Kameari, Holinger (Aussie) etc and these will handle more HP than most L6 can though at them ie 600+ HP. The standard 71C are good for about 400HP (the RB20DET ones that is) Cheers

I just swapped a R200 longnose 3.54 (39:11) for a R200 longnose 4.11 (37:9). The 3.54 was from a Z31 and the 4.11 from a JDM R30 Skyline. I also have a R200 3.9 from a JDM C31 Laurel (L20ET/Auto) again longnose. I am sure that as visit to a local pick-a-part will find more R200 longnose with different ratios from the many JDM Nissan Sedans/Coupes from the late 80's like the two listed above.