NZeder

I am not sure about the injector sizing - one of the turbo guys might be better to answer this one but at 800cc different I am sure that L20ET will have smaller injectors. I believe the L20ET put out 145ps in stock form where as the L28ET is more like 220ps (correct me please this is a guess). So again the injectors will be different going by these figures.

I believe the guys in Japan use the L20ET on the L28 also as far as I know on the USA got the L28ET. A number of guys here in NZ have used the L20ET in the past so yes I believe they are the same setup. Hope this helps

If NA is the thing you are after - seem to be a waste on the RB26 - import a RB30E (all are single cam) then put the RB25 head one top = RB30DE put on some throttle bodies. Re the head you will need the RB25DE head from a R32 if you get the R33 head (a better head I am lead to believe) you need to have it modified (oil gallery needs to be relocated, not a big job though). RB30 are easy to come buy in NZ and OZ (for now, but I am sure many are starting to collect these....aren't you Clint ) From time to time here in NZ you see the combo up for sale (ie already build RB30DE or RB30DET) Re the 6speeder as stated above they appear to be not that strong.

Not happy about that I bet - Clint forget what I said about S15 then - you know keep it as they are the last of the 200sx and given it is the R-Type. If that is going to happen every 65K dump it now.

Tony D, Nice pic - so mike there you go close to 200hp and 9k RPM. Tony - what have to done to the timing to allow 9K RPM, looks like you have a crank trigger setup - I believe anything above 8K required are replacement from the common/shared gear drive. Using an E88 - was this a 240z/260z E88 - I have heard the best e88 to use is the Nissan Cedric or 260C E88 as these have a smaller cumbustion chamber than the Z E88 head (ie no welding required just install bigger L28 valves and in your case with the L20a block work to ensure these larger valves don't cause issues with the top of the block). Would I be correct in guessing the you are using 40mm carbs? Mike if the car has had the engine replaced - and you really want a L20a (or L20e EFI) then I could see if I can locate on here however shipping will be the killer)

The gearbox will be what we call a 240z/260z B box downunder. The 280z B box has a wider 2 to 3 than the 240z/260z B box. Most Z in this part of the world have the 240z/260z B box only the 280zx had the wider 5 speeds. They are a good gear box to have as they are quite close ratio with only a wide 1st to 2nd. My 260z has one of these. re the cam cover yep most L series have those. The rare ones are the same down here also. ie 2400 o.h.c (on the series I 240z), I believe there were also 2000 o.h.c for the very early L20a (twin 40mm SU carbs not like the 240z 48mm SU). Only the very late L28 83-87 (yep the JDM keep using the L series until the R31 skylines when the RB relaced the L series) had the very chunk NISSAN cam covers. Most of the RHD dash crack. Here in NZ I had my covered/restored. Other than that I am sure I could see if I can find one for you? Regards Mike

nice looks good - what spec are those rims size/offset/bs?

Mike, That sound correct re the look of the car and the bumpers - we did not get the 280z bumper on any of our Zs. All have the 240z type - my Z is a 1977 260z basically bodies is like a 1977 280z but with 240z bumper, euro tail lights and RHD. Trim is the same as the 280z. The S31 did have different trim (this might be the look of the 240z ie vinyl etc but with 280z like door trim etc). My 260z had carpet not the vinyl and does not have the vented hood - the only vented hoods I have seen have been LHD 280z imports from your part of the world. With the mesh grill I would say it is a S31 (I believe all S31 were L20e ie injected L6 1998cc). So is this a S31 or a GS31 (2+2)? yes those figure I poster were for the L20e six for the S31 model (other model cars that used the L20e got less power - I guess via different cam timing) Regards Mike L.

On a side note - I have never seen a P79 or P90 head before (I have not had a good look at any Turbo L Series engines here in NZ). N42 are very common on the JDM L series engines. My L28 out of 1981 Nissan Laurel left the factory with the following block head combo, F54 and N42. I believe these L20e engines in stock form output approx 120hp net (ie flywheel HP). You might find this Fairlady is a S31. These are the same body as the S30 but the trim is different (dash looks the same as the 260z/280z but I believe the angle of the 3 guages is different) some even had electic windows fitted and there were other trim differences. Well that is about it from me when it comes to these JDM fairladies - sorry I can't help anymore. Next week I will visit a ex Nissan Japan mechanic I know and see what info I can get from him. Ok - update he is what I found on a Japanese site re performance from the stock L20e engine "L20E (SOHC1998cc * EGI electrically controlled gasoline injection device): 130ps/6000rpm and 17kg-m/4400rpm"

Sr240z - car looks great by the way. So the 16x9.5 -19 will not fit without coilovers? Did you try these with stock spring sizing before hand or did you already have the coilovers? Reason I ask is the all the research I have done a rim with 4.5" BS will fit a stock setup (my suspension is out of the car so I can't confirm this to be 100% true) and a 9.5 - 19 will have approx 4.5" BS.

Down this part of the world we have a lot of the Fairlady Z from the JDM that have been imported over the years. The L20 are easier to find than L28 these day (the last few 280zx I looked at where in fact just fairladies with the L20e engine). These L20 I have seen all seem to have an E30 head (these are also the same head I have seen on 240K and 240KGT's, these are the C110 Skylines they have L24's and a single carb.) Also we did not get the 280ZXT so most turbo of the L6 here are L20T (from the R30/R31 skylines) stuff fitted to L28s. These heads have small combustion chambers. So with some bigger valves some port work these might give high CR - I don't know most people don't bother with the L20 - just use parts ie rods, turbo manifolds, etc The Japanese use the L20 rods with custom pistons and LD28 cranks to make their strokers on L28 blocks. Not sure how much HP these will make but 250rwhp is a big ask if you want it to be reliable at the same time - I am sure you can get this HP but it might be a hand grenade (the pin is pulled it is just a mater of time before it goes off). Even the Japanese replace these engine with L28's if they want performance - so maybe that is a sign that these engine are good for parts only and the reason you can't find much info on them.

Ok time for me to join-in (will try not to hyjack this thread but please tell me if this is off target). I am about to order a new set of RS Watanabe's from Japan. I will be using the same rim front and rear (I have custom steel flares). currently I plan to purchase 16x9.5J -19. I have stock spring diameter (but the shocks are sectioned to correct the travel with lower springs). My flares look to be a little larger than the ZG in the rears and the fronts are bigger than ZG overfenders. Going by my calculation and messurements the 9.5j -19 will work (I might need to get the fronts made a little larger or roll the lip, to give me an extra 1/4") see my gallary for pics. So KUBO-Z reading your post are you saying that 8j 0 offset (approx 4.5 BS and 4.5 FS) and 9j -12 offset (approx 4.5 BS and 5.5 FS) will fit stock fenders? I assume you will have to roll the lip or trim the lip to ensure that the 9j will fit? Even if the flares are not big enough on my car my panelbeater will modify the flares to suit the rims I purchase (handy that he is my brother). I will keep you posted once I have my rims - we have the dimensions of the custom flares and I will try and post as much information re clearances etc once the job is complete. Currently the flares are the following specs. All measurements are from the inner stock lip to the new inner lip. Front - 1.75" wider than stock with 0.5" lip (can me rolled or trimmed for more clearance) Rear - 2" wider than stock with 0.5" lip (same as fronts re roll/trim) Most Z sites state that 7" 0 offset rims will fit stock fenders with stock spring diameter. A 7" rims is approx 8" from outer bead (inside) to outer bead (outside). So with a 0 offset this give 4" BS (back space) and 4" FS. All the research I have done shows that stock diameter springs the max BS is 4.5". So using this info you can say that a 7.5" rim with +6 offset will fit stock springs and fenders. So using this info this is what I get. 8" 0 offset = 4.5" BS and 4.5" FS (might be a very tight fit - negative camber and slight trim on the lip and they should fit) 8.5" -6 offset = 4.5" BS and 5" FS (0.5" too wide flares/overfender required) 9" -12 offset = 4.5" BS and 5.5" FS (will be 1" too wide for stock fenders) 9.5" -19 offset = 4.5"BS and 6" FS (flares/overfender will be required) Clint - with coilovers and the research I have done you can get away with 5.25" BS (5.5" is just a bit to close - but does depend on the location of the coilover ie 10" or 8" springs ie lower or higher platforms) So using the info above I would say the following. 4.5" FS max and 5.5max BS = 10" total rim = 9" rim with +12/13 and that would be about it. Any more and mods would be required (some might be required to get these to fit on some cars) I know a Z that has 9.5" front and rear that look like stock fender with coilovers and 5" BS but the fenders were modified a rolling of the lip in the front and small strech of about 1" in the rear, and -2.5 camber to ensure the fronts clear. So in this case a 5.5" FS works on the front with the coilovers, rolled lip and - camber. So this guys Zed has 9.5" -6 offset coilovers and stock fender in the front and a modified in the rear to if the same size/offset wheel. Hope some of this info helps and as stated I will post more info/pics when I get my wheels. Here is pic of some rims I purchased a while back (will be replacing with the RS Watanabe R Type) as they are not wide enough and will fit a stock fender 240z (pic show this). They are the following spec. 15x7 -6 offset (3.75" BS and 4.25" FS) fronts 15x8 -12 offset (4" BS and 5" FS - some lip rolling and - camber required to work on stock 240z fenders)

That is the hard way of do'n it. The best car I have seen to get the engine out of was my old mans Fiat 850 sport coupe. Dad could remove the engine and trans in 15 minutes when going for it. The whole back panel is removed - then you unbolt the suspension and disconnect the wires, fuel lines, and hoses then just lift the body enough to clear the whole thing and push it forward onto the waiting axles stands (car only weights 900kg and much less when you aren't pushing the engine/trans.

Looks very nice - you say you are running 16x9.5. What tire size are you running and what is the offset or backspace do those wheels have. I am looking at running 16x9.5 -19 with 245/45's on all 4 corners of my Zed. Also your flares how much wider are they over the stock.

Yep - but as you can tell in the photo - speed in not an option.

I wanted good wide steel flares also - so I had some custom made - the only way to get what you want (however my panelbeater is my older brother so this helps with the cost of these custom babies).

Looks like you can still get the real lower part of the ZG from Nissan - however all the other parts are NLA ie headlight covers, buckets, centre, bumper and the hinges. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_240z-g-nose http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=98520-N3256&Category_Code=s30_nismo_240z-g-nose However you can get hinges from John of http://www.baddogparts.com/bdp.htm I am very keen for a G Nose on my car. Looks like I might have to get the MSA one - feedback from anyone who has this installed?

I have read on other forums that the 300zx (z31) LSD centres can be installed in the R200a (front diff of the Nissan 4x4). These forums were 4x4 ones. So if they can take what we use then it must be conceivable that we can go the other way also. R200a centre into a R200.

I read in a local paper the other day that Mazda will be looking into electrically controlled/powered turbo or supercharging on the new RX7 and that the gentlemans agreement between Japanese Car Manufactures to limit power out put to 206kw has been lifted. So expect some very high powered cars to come out of Japan soon (but I don't think for too long before another gentlemans agreement is drawn up)

I emailed them re getting the covered headlight extensions still no reply and that was weeks ago (timezones and international tolls = I do first contact via email then based on response/feel I will call etc to do business) so they have lost me as an international buyer etc.

The 2400ohc cover are rare beasts - as far as I know they were only on the series I 240z (ie HS30 and HLS30 00500 and below). This would put the manufacture year in the 69-70 time frame. Cheers Mike

I agree with 260DET, they had Porsche type syncros but were Nissan boxes. The only race boxes I know of the were the Nissan Motorsport units that had a 1:1 5th with close ratios - sometime people call these dog leg boxes as 1st gear is below reverse on the left - where as the over-drive boxes (with a 1:1 4th and 5th was 0.8 something) had a the more convensional H pattern. These units are like hens teath (rare) in this part of the would at least. Today you might say the Nissan Motorsport CR dog boxes are unobtainium (well the bigger version are at least - I believe there was two types those used for the Zed and the small bearing unit used on the L16/L18/L20 and A series 4 cylinder engines) I hope most of my facts are correct Cheers Mike

Stock tranny for most RHD Zeds was the 5spd - rare to find a 4 spd in a RHD Zed or in a RHD roadster SP311. I think the only 4 spd Zeds I have seen are S31 type. The S31 looks like a 260z (or 260z 2+2) but is called a Fairlady and was powered by the L20E with EFI 4 spd was standard in these but most had the optional 5 spd installed when first ordered/purchased.