Jolane

I also made my own front crossmember. I also relocated my LCA pivots, but used the stock steering rack. I used rectangular tubing, and welded the completed crossmember into my car. It allows for more oil pan clearance as well. It wasn't that hard to do. Joshua

Congratulations on the new welder! I understand where you are coming from. I got my Dynasty 200DX last March and it has been great. I then got a MM210 last fall and went through the whole thing again. What a great feeling having a welder that works exceptionally well. I like the PT185 as well, and seriously considered it, but like all the transformer machines, they take too much power for me. Joshua

Mike, This might not help, but I bought a hydraulic release bearing from Keisler. I don't know what brand it is, maybe Sachs, but I was told that it is OEM for BMW and other European cars. It does not have a bleeder like the Hayes, and is very nicely made. I am still in the prep for paint phase, but expect this unit to be great. You might want to give them a cal at least and ask about it. Why do you have to remove 1/8 inch from the flywheel? Where? I think I am using the same bellhousing as you, and did not see anything about removing material. I am using the lighter OEM Camaro flywheel though, 153 Tooth, maybe that is the difference. Joshua

Here is a source for metal bends. They carry aluminum also, which would be lighter than the steel versions... http://www.roadraceengineering.com/mandrelbends.htm And silicon versions... http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/misc_intakexh.html Joshua

Jon, Those are good pictures showing the welds I was talking about in another thread. Someone said that the roof panel was soldered on, but I knew it was welded since I stripped the lead from my car. I used the same method you did, small torch and wire brush. I have not filled mine yet, but I was thinking about using Metal 2 metal (I think that is what it is called). It is an Evercoat product designed to be applied directly to metal. It is filled with aluminum I believe, and very strong (I used it on my quarter also). The downside to it is that it is difficult to sand, it is so hard. Other than that though, it appears to be a great epoxy type product. Joshua

Trudge, You got a good deal. I paid $240 each just two months ago, and had to buy the pair. That was already discounted from the dealer. I assume yours are also NOS or OEM Nissan fenders? Joshua

RacerX, Thank you for taking the time to write your observations! I certainly value your input and experience! Joshua

Huh? Care to explain more? I have read quite the opposite, but maybe it is just propoganda from the manufacturers using this geometry. Maybe it is significantly better than any other options? I am not trying to start an argument, I just want to learn. I have just always heard the contrary. Furthermore (for extra credit), what front suspension geometry would be better, regardless of track width? The one issue I saw with the Mustang II front end is that the track is too wide. If you shorten the crossmember, you need to also shorten the rack and pinion by an equivalent amount. You can get custom R&P's made, but they are mucho dinero... Otherwise it seems like it would fit quite nicely into a Z front end (with sufficient frame rail reinforcements of course, which need to be significant relative to stock!). A tube front end is on my mind for this type of conversion... Thanks, Joshua

Sorry guys, I was not trying to criticize, I think it looks fine with the foam you have in there. I was stating the thermal expansion just for general knowledge, etc. I see alum. rad's hard mounted and thought I would throw some info in there. As desert dog said, vibration is also a big no-no. Aluminum likes to fatigue, one of the bad things aluminum does. Over time that vibration, even very small, could cause fatique cracks. I assume that this is not a major nor common problem, but I guess it could be. Anyways, sorry if it seemed I was criticizing. Didn't mean to come off that way... Joshua

Qwik, Can you update this thread with any information you have found. I was wonder the exact same question a few weeks ago after looking at the VA website. Additional questions (thinking out loud): Are the hose inlets/outlets in the same places? Electrical? Ducts? Maybe one fits better than another just due to these things also, regardless of size... Thanks, Joshua

Thanks RacerX, Do you use the Zero Rust on the exterior of body panels, say on the door skins too? If so, does it just spray on like regular old primer. You said that you top coat the Zero Rust. With what, high build primer, epoxy primer, 2 stage color, ...? I have looked at the Zero Rust site a few weeks ago and got the impression that it is used like Por-15. Guess not. Joshua

It is not only the twisting stress that kills aluminum radiators. The thermal expansion can also play a huge roll. I calculated close to .088" length difference for mine between cold winter weather and hot coolant. This will create a lot of thermal stress, which could also crack a solid mount radiator. I will be rubber mounting mine also. Joshua

RacerX, Can you describe how you use Zero Rust as your foundation? I have a bare to steel shell now with replacement floor pans, etc. I was looking at using the Eastwood Product that is similar to Por15, Rust Encapsulator. This is where I a little confused. If I go with LineX or Rhino, do they need a primer? If I don't go with bedliner, would I epoxy seal over the Rust Encapsulator. I don't really have rust that I am combatting, as it has been cut out and replaced. I just want good protection and finish for the long haul. The Rust Encapsulator looks nice because I can buy it in spray cans and do sections at a time, but a roll-on might be better just for the mess aspect. I would definitely appreciate more info on your process using Zero Rust. I am particularly interested in underbody and fenderwells. Thank you, Joshua

This is not a Z specific radiator, rather it is just a generic unit that I will weld tabs onto. I just got my rubber mounts today for it, so I can work on that sometime in the next few weeks. I will be rubber mounting it for thermal stress, vibration, and mechanical stress reasons. As for pictures, nothing to see really that is not on their website at this point. Just out of curiousity, what is the "Nice stuff but.....more later..." about? Joshua

Did anyone notice the new Autometer Phantom II's and Sport-Comp II's. They look nice with the through dial lighting! Unfortunately, they are only available in 2 1/16" "with no plans to produce the 2 5/8"", I emailed them yesterday. They should be releasing the 5" Speedo and Tach in Spring 2007! Does anyone know where I can get some similar gauges in the sizes we need? I have looked at VDO, Nordskog, Autometer, Stewart Warner, and Speedhut. Thanks, Joshua

Again, if this is in the wrong forum, I apologize before hand. Please move if necessary... This is another vendor I am very impressed with. First, they have a wealth of information on their website about Walbro fuel pumps and accessories. This is the most comprehensive collection of information I found anywhere. The owner, who unfortunately I cannot remember his name, was extremely helpful also. I bought the GSS340 pump (Mustang/Grand National application, 255 LPM, High Pressure) and install parts including various filter socks, hoses, etc. I ordered these online last Thursday night, and received the parts that Saturday. This was no additional cost standard shipping. The prices on the website seem to include shipping to the lower 48. They had everything in stock, and shipped very quickly! They are not the absolute cheapest, but they might be the best. They are definitely NOT expensive either (a couple dollars more than the cheapest on eBay, cheaper than most everyone else online), and have a lot to offer people like us looking for parts for non-standard applications. They also carry several choices of accessories that I could not find anywhere else. The only downside to this company is that it seems to be a side business and therefore the hours are odd (evening mostly). He does communicate via e-mail well though during the day. For me, these are the type of people I prefer to support, because in the end it is an even greater service to me by supplying the information and knowledge. I also prefer to support quality customer service! I highly recommend them for any fuel pumps or accessories! Joshua

First, if this is not the correct forum, please move it. This information is not specific to a Chevy nor Ford nor other engine swap. I must say that I am very impressed with Ron Davis radiators! I just received mine last night, and here are the details. I ordered it last week, I believe it was January 11. I got a 1A-26163. It is a DOUBLE pass, aluminum, 3" thick core x 16" tall x 26" wide. I let them put the filler on as well in the stock location. It is configured for a Chevy install, and both inlet and outlet are on the passenger side. It was made and shipped to me so I could have it in my hands on January 16. I did not ask for express or anything, and expected it to take a few weeks. This size ends up being a perfect fit. I do not have a radiator cap yet, so I cannot tell whether there will be hood clearance problems, but it does not seem like it. It will not hang below the radiator support, and the core basically fills the open area of the core, with only ~1/2" strips of the tanks on each side showing. The taper at the bottom of the tanks fits great between the frame rails. I am glad I did NOT go with the 24" wide (originally planned) nor the 19" tall. The craftsmanship looks excellent as well. Very nice welding. Machined billet filler (NOT stamped!). It is engraved with serial number as well. Top notch and perfect for my application. Finally, the packaging was great! For a total cost of $14.77 it was packed and shipped to me via UPS. The box was filled with the spray foam on the bottom and molded to the shape, then the same on the top. Basically the rad was suspended between the foam pieces, resulting in NO bent fins or other damage. If you can't tell, I highly recommend them. I spoke with both Bill and Tim, both very helpful people. Price: $289 + shipping (double pass), $239 + shipping (single pass). Joshua

Mike, I am little confused. So are you going to put baffling internal to the tank, and then inside a baffled area put the duck feet? I got the impression originally that you were going to put the duck feet inside an open tank. Either way, do the duck feet seal shut if fuel is not present, or how do you ensure that air is not sucked in say on the left pickup when in a left hand turn? Thanks, Joshua

Wheelman, The products is called "Waterweld". http://jbweld.net/products/water.php The other is called JB Stik: http://jbweld.net/products/jbstik.php I like the idea of welding it though (with a TIG). Might not be too expensive. Maybe a radiator shop can fix the pin holes also... Joshua

Cygnusx1, The torque put into the chassis should be equal to the engine torque multiplied by the first gear ratio. The question is, what engine torque should be used? The answer, as much as possible while the tires do not spin. It really is hard to estimate, but at worst case (maybe dumping the clutch with drag slicks or something) it will be the maximum engine torque * first gear. This assumes a maual car. Auto is another story... Joshua

Thank you Clifton. I have seen your tank before, months ago though, and couldn't remember exactly what the inside looked like. Mike, That black box from ATL is a little expensive for my tastes. I was seriously considering, and after all, including the pump, it is ~$400. BUT, now that I have a workable solultion for the trap doors, my version will be ~$140 with pump, doing the welding myself. I ordered the pump last night from APEUSA.com. Nice guy to deal with. Not the absolute cheapest, but a wealth of info. I am using the Walbro GSS340 (255 LPM, HP Mustang and Grand National Application). Why are you using duck bills? I am not exactly sure what those are, I assume a valve of some sort. Are you using the stock tank? Just curious about your approach on this. Joshua

I use the same method 78zlt1 described. It works great, and is fairly quick. After popping off the offending part, use a flap disk on a grinder and knock off the remaining sharp edge that is probably there to cut you. Joshua