briann510

I love street racing, but you have to get it to the track at least once to see what kind of times you can nail down. Hard to tell exacly how fast it really is, even racing next to someone.

Her mistake was letting off the throttle. I dont even let my wife drive my Z06. No way, aint ever gonna happen! Those are some of the best street racing vids ive seen in a long time on that ricekiller site. Ill be in Dallas in a month and will certainly go check those guys out. Shots racing 3, 4 and 5 across on 6 lane freeways are awesome.

I have a R200 finned cover laying around gathering dust ill never use. Did I read correcty up above those are going for a couple hundred?

Darius, that looks like Motol 600 in those reservoirs. True biker!

Updated with a couple new videos... http://www.bbgraphics1.com/id15.html

We have YZ flares but havnt put them on the car yet. Just one of those things that just aint getting done for some reason.

I need to go over and take a look at Darius's car in person. I also wantto check out the exhaust and rear suspension setup!

That is amazing how little clearance there is on the rear tires. You obviously have suspension that is rock hard and very little play if thats how its gonna end up back together.

I run a catch can on my Z06 and it does indeed catch quite a bit of oil as its driven very hard (couple ounces every 200 or so miles). It keeps the oil out of my intake and MAF. Before I installed it you could literally wipe the oil out of the throttle body area and see it down into the intake. Now it stays clean. Some guys run 2 cans, but it really makes a difference for the turbo & supercharger guys. Here is a link to one of the many companies that make them with a pretty good explanation how it all works for those that need the info (these guys specialize in the Vette market). http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Catch_Can.html

Im surprised no one has paid the guy an in person visit and showed their displeasure with him personallyh Ive had on ocassion visited a few people that ripped me off on internet sales and made my point rather quickly with them and got a cash refund within minutes. It really helps when you show up on someones business address doorstep with half a dozen friends to make a point.

Im gonna cut off 7/8" and that should do it.

I just found an old post where you mentioned doing that and welding the end piece back on. Im gonna do it that way. Thanks!

I have an old thread topic with pictures TonyD sent me of the details of shortening a stock halfshaft in below link, unfortunatly I cant find anyone to do it so far (I went buy a couple custom driveshaft places with the pictures and they said they wont do it) and I dont have the correct tools to attempt it myself. Raising the diff would be easy enough but wouldnt give me enough extra travel for halfshaft I dontthink, but moving the diff to the right 3/4" or a tad more would let me do a custom front diff mount which I need and probably work ideal. My zxt cv shaft conversion didnt work well with this current problem of my now shorter drivers side distance for halfshaft travel, but i may attempt the 300zxt cv conversion since those shafts are much easier to modify and change diff splined ends. Its my damn 4.38 gears again making this problem (carriers 10mm fat spacer has to be moved to opposite side) making drivers side available shaft distance 3/8" + shorter than original. Thanks for the suggestions! http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/construction%20page-23.html

If one needed to raise the rear up of a 240z 1/2-3/4"" would it matter or one way be better than the other if longer 280z strut isolators were used or a different spring? Would the suspension geometry change be the same both ways (ie: halfshaft or cv angle changing with rear being raised). Our car is lowered alot so the left halfshaft is bottoming out on hard launches (even when I had a cv shaft on left side it also bottomed out at full suspension compression) so im thinking to help solve the problem is to raise the car up some to correct the halfshaft angle to be a little more extended (doesnt have to be much). Im just not sure which way to raise it would be a better approach. The easiest ofd course is the longer 280z isolators which I have and would take about 10 minutes to change. Ive also been talking to Unitrax about making some custom length billet halfshafts with Viper/equivelant Ujoints like they do for the Vipers and then not having to raise the rear up any.

Yea no daredevil air jumps in this car.

Our rear springs we have (I think they are MSA lowering springs), are free well before the wheel is even all the way off the ground (when I jack it up for instance) which I dont like at all. Id like to find a spring that still has some pressure on it even when suspension is fully unloaded. I also need to stiffen the rear suspension alot more than it is right now. It has Tokico HP struts currently, so the first step is to get rid of those and use Tokico Illuminas set on #5 I suppose. The car is not road raced, only street driven and 1/4 drag raced so it needs to really have the rear stiffened up as much as possible while retaining the current ride height. Right now at really hard launch the left halfshaft goes to its end of travel. I need about 1/4" or so more travel in it or stop the suspension from going that much farther to bottom the halfshaft out. Im about ready to just move the whole diff 3/4" to the right and kiss all these left side being so short problems goodbye. For those who havnt followed my previous diff posts, when we changed to 4.38 gears, the diff carrier fat spacer had to be moved to the opposite side making the left side even a shorter distance than stock between the side diff flange and stub axle flange which is presenting all sorts of problems with that sides cv or halfshaft length being too long and bottoming out.

After going back to scene of carnage and finding the halfshaft outer end cap (it obviously bottomed out and popped the cap off) it looks like the drivers side shaft possibly bottomed out on launch and popped the end cap off as shown is first picture and then jamming against ujoint side and grease fitting into cap and causing the lockup and breakage. There was some play in shaft at full suspension compression when checked on install but since we are using 4.38 gears the carriers fat spacer is on opposite side making the drivers side shaft even tighter. Thats what it looks like happenned by the marks on the inside and outside of the end cap to me and maybe not a ujoint itself failure. Anyone run into drivers halfshaft length problem with using 4.38 gears also? Looking back we should have stuck with the 3.90 gears and avoided all this BS with left side being an additional 1/2" shorter on its already shorter difference vs right side.

Already tried a cv swap and it wouldnt work due unforseen problems with running 4.38 gears and the conversion not working properly (see my previous thread on this nightmare swap in this same section a month or so ago). When this is fixed if another ujoint breaks then we will try a difference cv swap with the later cv instead of the zxt shafts.

I adapted the grille from a billet grille thats for a Chevy Astro van. I had to cut a row off and shorten some for the z contours fo fit, but it wasnt too hard. Bought the rims/tires from Summit. Total for all with mounting/balancing/lugs nuts was $1200.

Well the tires didnt rub on a hard launch...BUT This is why CV conversions are done on higher HP cars. We did a CV conversion and had to go back to halfshafts until a different CV conversion is done as the first one wouldnt work right. Luckily it was only 2 blocks from home for the quick tow rope scenerio. This was a street launch rolling in 1st about 10 mph and full throttle. Anyone have a spare halfshaft laying around? Turns out that 3 of the 4 ujoints that were used were beefy non greable ones. The 4th one that broke has a greasable fitting andwhat looks like an inferior casting and not near as beefy as the others. I remember questioning the shop that did them about the one being different and they said it was a different brand but fine to use (obviously not) .

Just got back from driving the hell out of the car for 30 minutes (45-50 mph freeway exit turns, speed bumps, dips, 2 shallow pot holes and what not. Not one rub either side. These rims and tires are not for road racing and they wont be used for that. Its for straight line accelerating stop light to stop light and 1/4 mile drag racing. Around town hard driving this morning they have proven to do just fine though. I will however be doing some close up launching video of the rear tires to see if they hit at full launch rpm and suspension loading. I will be inspecting them after every drive for safety reasons though as we dont want a shredded tire at any speed. If we want to road race at a track we sure wouldnt use this setup, we put the other rims/tires on. Im actually gonna get rid of the standard rear Tokico's and put Tokico Illuminas on the rear to stiffen it up more just in case of hard compression ouch to the tire sides. I have a set of 280z rear isolators to put on to raise the rear 3/4", but wont do it unless we see evidence of tire rubbing.

0100, Here are side shots taken today. We have MSA lowering springs on the car and Tockico struts. The rear tires didnt rub EXCEPT when backing out of the last section of our steep driveway or a very hard suspension drop so we had to roll the front section edges front of the tires only (area shown in picture below) The tops edges didnt hit at all and they are 1/8" away from tire when suspension fully compressed but we rolled those edges as well just in case. I now know a 5" BS would have fit perfectly with my stock struts and not hit and I would have had a custom rim done had I known that before hand so they would have tucked i na hair more to my liking but I was told 4.5" was max for stock backspacing...Oh well.....

I run NGK plugs in my Z06 .They simply do the best job.

Ill get some whole car shots right after Xmas as the front rims just arrived (15x5's with 155-80's) yesterday and im waiting on the tires that will be here on Tuesday for those rims and then mount everything for pictures. Before that though im gonna shoot some video of my son smoking the old rear tires off.

Hey Kevin, All is well on this end. The Datsun is doing well, but most of our time is spent on the Z06's and the R1 Yamaha.