spitz17

Hi HybridZ - I'm looking to purchase an early Fairlady Z Grille. Must be the finer mesh type with 3 tabs pointing outwards and two inwards. The early grille's mesh was roughly 13 diamonds wide. Not looking for replicas, just the real thing. Will pay a good price. Thanks!

Did you rule out fuel tank rust? Sounds like the car sits quite a bit. Rust flakes could have clogged the fuel passages. Are your carbs stock?

srgunz - I don't think that is a 72. It's most likely a 1969 911 if you ask me (I have one w/ a black plate). The reason I say this is because the 1972 911 had an external oil filler door. Porsche ran into problems where people started filling gas through this door straight into their engine, so they quickly got rid of it, and moved the filler passage back into the engine compartment as pictured in your image. Of course, among Porsche guys, this makes 72's highly desirable.

How did the hammer and dolly work out for you Takashi? I have a few dents I want to rid my car of, but I'm concerned I'll just be over stretching the metal.

My 72 car only has the VIN stamped on the firewall, and provided on a VIN plate in the engine bay. JDM cars did not have, to my knowledge, VIN plates on the dash or door jam. Not entirely sure why. I'd pass, S130 Fairlady Z's aren't exactly rare, and come up pretty often. Especially if it was raced and has all these body mods to it.

20k for the right buyer. 50 is dreaming.

Clean ride!

Beautiful Fairlady! You are located in San Jose? Could you reach out to me via PM or e-mail? I have an on going log of all Fairlady's in the US, would love to hear more about yours.

Hi tamo3 - thank you for the complements! I do have the stock mount insulator with my coilovers. I am running -2 camber in the front, and about -1.8 in the rear. My rears are not adjustable, fronts are. You can also use aftermarket adjustable isoulators, such as DP Racing's, which don't require you to modify the shock tower metal.

Bump, still looking!

Thanks bud! Hope to see your green Z up and running soon!

I am running GroundControl coilovers. Can't remember the rates at the top of my head though. I don't get much rub unless I hit a significant dip on the highway. The wheels sit very flush to the fender, and my fender rolling job prevents the tire from being shaved from bottoming out.

Got the Wats mounted up Wanted to stick with stock arches. 15x8, 0 offset. 225/50/15 Toyo RA1's. Coilovers needed. Extended studs, no spacers.

Thanks bud - hope your project is going well.

Final stages of the fitting process! Watanabe RS in 15x8, 0 Offset, Black

Yeah, pretty ridiculous ad. I saw it the other day, think I know who it is... lol Anyways, still looking!

First of all, congratulations on the find! Beautiful car, and glad you have decided to bring it back to life. I recently brought back a 911 that sat for roughly ten years, and prior to that, I had no experience with such things. So I can safely say that with the support of individuals here, you will be just fine. I first started out by boiling the fuel tank, making sure it was perfectly clean before I put fuel in. I then checked all of the fuel lines for cracks; I would replace all of them, as there aren't many on the Z car. I replaced any leaking gaskets, Z will be easier for this. I did an oil change. I pulled the plugs and put 1 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder, left the plugs out. I lifted the rear into the air, put the car in 5th gear, and spun the crank with a breaker bar (SLOWLY first, with my hands grasping the belt to make sure it didn't fall off) I pulled the coil line. I cranked for 10-15 seconds, intermittently. Roughly 5-10 times. This will help oil the engine. I put the spark plugs in. I cranked motor, and it started! You can also put some starter fluid into the carbs prior to this.

Looks like solid progress Leon. Hope to see you at the upcoming events!

Hello there - As the title says, I am interested in purchasing a Fairlady Z Grille for my Z car. I have one condition, and that it must be the 13-diamond vertical mesh version, not the 8-diamond vertical mesh version. It is important that I purchase a period correct version for my car, and the 8-diamond version wouldn't fit. Thank you for looking, please contact me through PM.

A 5-speed conversion would be great! I use Exedy, and have had no experience with ACT, and it has been reliable thus far. I also run a Fidanza flywheel with great results.

Having done the transmission on my Z before, I'd agree with Leon. The car has to be at least 18" high, and also keep in mind that using a regular jack may need more clearance to get leverage on jack's bar. Tamo3, I see that you are in the San Jose Area. You are more than welcome to borrow my transmission jack I used for my transmission drop. I am in Los Altos, and I may even be able to help you, if you're open to it. I also agree with Leon that you should probably do a flywheel and clutch job since you are in there, but I'd also add to do the Rear Main Seal of your engine too. These are prone to leak and destroy clutches... Just my 2 cents.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SCCB10 On MSA's site, it sells two versions for 70-72 and 73-83. However, I believe the 70-72 has the Series 1 return spring, which you do not have. So I think that the one you have is correct. After re-reviewing your videos, I do think it is a problem with the clutch collar or bearing. You may just have to drop your transmission to get this done. The clutch collar is spring loaded, which engages to clutch... It looks like yours is overly flimsy!

Hi tamo -- I'm looking at your video and am not 100% sure what is wrong. Your clutch does seem to retract, are you not getting enough travel in your clutch pedal? Did you purchase the proper clutch slave + clutch master cylinder for a 75 280Z? I believe they do differ depending on whether you have a 5 speed or 4 speed, as there are different throw out bearing lengths (inside transmission bell housing). Also, when you installed your Clutch Master Cylinder, did you match the length of the rod with your old clutch master cylinder? This will help ensure the adjustment of when the push rod touches the piston is correct. From what I understand from my experiences, when you put your hand on the clutch pedal and push forward lightly... there should be about 1/16 of an inch travel before you feel the push rod touch the piston in the Clutch Master Cylinder.

Great progress tamo! I believe we met briefly at the Shokuji J-tin gathering last week (I had the blue Fairlady Z). Looking forward to seeing the progression of your car.

Wow! Great results! Looking forward to a set as well.