dr_hunt

Ray, Need your tire size and rpm limit as well. I run a 29.5 inch tall rear tire, and am switching to 4.11 gears with a 406. It had 4.56's in it before but was bumping the 7K msd chip about 200 feet before the end of the track and top trap speed was 126 and change, and if you punch that info in to a tire/gear/speed program with converter slip, you get about 7000 rpm. I want to bring mine down to about 6500 here and make room for the 20% HP gain when and if I go to SEZ6. Point is, use one of those programs that is on the net, it'll give you a feel for what you have and where you want to go with the powerband, rpm limit of your engine. I'd expect some low 11's from your setup in the z. My guess is depending on your tire combo 3.90's to 4.11's should work.

Your sign at the bottom is right, I have a problem with assholes that have authority.

Let's see the 357 inch motor with a 3.5 stroke went 11.29 at 122 and change, the 406 went 10.59 at 126 and change all while bumping a 7K rpm chip in the MSD box. Hmmmmmm! Both run AFR 220 heads, both similar compression 13-14:1, both roller cams but the 357 had smaller cam. Not to say that the 357 wouldn't do better with more cam, just food for thought.

S&S full length, you can get them from JTR or straight from S&S, cheaper from S&S.

If that guy lived, i'd be suprised. In HS a buddy was ripping a 2x6 lengthwise and after finishing the rip cut, pulled the boards back towards him. The saw blade caught the wood and propelled the boards into his stomach, knocking him backwards a few feet. Ruptured his spleen, he almost died. It looks like it would have hurt.

I'm not familiar with the 4011. I have 3 holley DP carbs, all run at 5K or higher elevation regularly. Mine are all DP carbs and I jet square since all the venturi's are the same size and airflow. You can run smaller jets in the primaries and larger jets in the secondaries, but it depends on whether or not you run power valves in either metering block. I run power valves in my 750DP only. If you don't run power valves, then you have to jet up 6 to 8 sizes to compensate for the fuel loss attributed to the power valve being removed. Also there are different flowing power valves, 2 stage, 2 window, 2 window high flow and 4 window ultra flow. You also have to pay attention to the needle and seats, there are several different sizes of those as well and they need to match your HP potential of the engine to keep the bowls full and not lean out the engine on the top end. .060 is a really small jet. 650 DP carbs usually have .068 jets stock in my experience. In my 750DP I run .074's and 4.5 two window power valves for 8000 ft elevation on a 406, it has 7 inches of vacuum at idle on that engine. The main thing is that you have to read the plugs, flow distribution problems in your intake system can require staggered jets or a 6 jet/8 jet conversion carb. This is the reason that EFI is really so much better IMO, cause you can meter fuel to each cylinder more precisely, at least in the MPFI.

Yeah, I've never used the rubber end gaskets either. When using AFR heads, it's the opposite, the end gaps open up to about 1/2 inch. So, it's the water that's leaking (for sure) or intake plenum leaks or both? If it's wate the corners need more huckypucky as do both ends and tighten the crap out of it. Almost sounds like the manifold isn't quite right, is there porosity showing on the corners where the water passages are?

When you deck the block, the intake sides of the heads actually get closer together not further away, however they are lower. In some instances of severe head milling it is necessary to elongate the intake bolt holes, just to get the bolts in. I have found that the intake bolts need to be retightened after running it awhile. Sealer around the ports helps as well. This may be a dumb question, but how do you know that the intake is still leaking? Is the intake bottoming out on the block at the ends of the manifold? Could use alittle more information. I don't think I have heard of anyone running two intake gaskets, may work, I don't know. Seems the problem is elsewhere in surface angles to me.

dang dude, it looks like the car is half finished. Your going to drive it over there, how far is that for you? My list is; change rear gears to 4.11 change oil/filter New slicks new plugs set valves maybe clean up wiring.

In the old days, yup, the old days, we used to fill three teeth 180 degrees apart on the spider gears with brass. Get out your torch and braze them full, reinstall after they cool off. The brass will "work" into the other teeth and the remnants will not damage the ring and pinion. You can also redo it as needed. This is an old circle track mod that was done before posi's and lockers became so prevalent. Welding works for awhile but eventually fails, the cast doesn't weld that well and breaks, the gears don't fare well when all this gets into them.

Mikelly, you or anyone else need not apologize for your viewpoints and discussions, whether heated or not, I was not offended, merely enlightened by right and left views of the same subject whether I agreed with the left or not. Time is the healer of all wounds.

I'd borrow the money. Ok, fellow members, send paypal loans to Mat73GNZ@nowhere.com so he can get his car. He'll never pay you back but he'll let you drool on it when he gets done. Besides, doing the humanitarian thing will be brownie points to get you through the pearly gates. Either buy the car or tell us where it's at so one of us can buy it for you to drool over. This is not even a question.

An old man told me once, that on the average, the more you know about someone, the less your going to like him/her. You can be great friends at arms length and discuss technical issues for years, but things change, especially when you touch on religion and politics, cause it's kind of like kicking somebodys dog. With that said, I don't think I'll miss it one bit cause it seemed like every thread, ended up in the dumpster cause you can, and do, say things in type that you won't say in person. Those subjects have been the source of crusades, war, hatred, genocide, fights, arguments and the like for centuries and it won't stop, even on Hybridz.

Well, maybe not a scam, just he'd rather owe you than beat you out of it all together. He might even put you on his christmas card list.

I'm glad, at least it'll be fixed and from the sounds of it, it'll be done right. Let us know how it goes and how it comes out when it's finished.

I was amazed at the variety of cars, knowledge of members, and unique ideas. I went the old school route, balls to the wall sbc/glide. But, I'm working on a TT350SBC on alky and the thought of a 6-71 blown alky sbc doesn't sound too bad either.

What for?

And you guys thought I had money! We bow before daddy warbucks..... and his most awesome find. Great scott Batman, the Batmobile has superpower! Good luck, how soon are you planning on the install?

A lesson to all, next time you run into fastzcars, rub on him to get a little luck off him. He's one lucky schmuck! Oh, wait till he gets his new insurance bill, well, he'll be lucky and poor, but still lucky I guess.

I'd have to agree with you Tim, so I'll change the subject. Hey Tim, was your car really on TV?

If you are expecting to be made whole, you are mistaken. Expect to get screwed, you'll end up smiling if you have any patience. You'll come out good if you break even or just end up losing your time and a few mods. But they'd like it more it you'd just take the 1200 and "Be Happy".

Wondered how long it'd take before you showed up. Super nice car, and wickedly fast. Turn that blower up for god sakes and run some 8's! I have a '85 Monte SS as well, so in a way, i'm sort of the same, got z, got ss, although your z is nicer IMHO. Would love to see what that NA sbc does! Work it BABY! Welcome and enjoy the ride!

Some good sound advice is given above in the earlier posts. Insurance adjusters get paid a portion of the difference in the claim. Whaaaaa? That's right folks, If you have time look at an adjustment, they have the stated value of the car less depreciation and deductions. If they can get you to settle for what they offer an adjuster in some companies would get 40% of the difference! So, just say no, keep saying no, keep furnishing them with examples of the year car you had that go for alot of money and be patient. Back in '93 my '84 Monte SS was stolen on Christmas eve, trunk full of presents, and recovered in Mexico a month later, totally stripped of interior, stereo, doors, glass, fenders, wheels, tires, but still had the engine and trans. It had to be towed back to the US on a dolly. Had new 350 engine trans, $1200 stereo, new interior, new tires, shocks, paint, windshield, yada yada. They offered me $1500 and I buy the car back for $500, so it was $1000 plus the car. By the time I got done with them 6 months later, I left there with $8750 plus the car. But what helped is that I bought another car like mine for $6K, and it only had 16,000 original miles! Here's what I said; I suppose that if you guys told a judge that his brand new lincoln he paid 30K for, that was stolen was now worth half of what he paid for it, that he wouldn't believe you and rule against you." I bet I had to say that a dozen times about everything they were depreciating, like my stereo that I had just gotten installed the week before was now only worth $500 cause it was used. Really, a used Alpine system with amp, 5 disc cd changer, and speakers installed for $1200 a week ago is now worth $500. I got a letter from the stereo dealer saying he'd give me $1000 for it back today. Those are the kinds of things that will help your cause.

I've already stated on another thread that their methods are kind of pointless and non logical IMHO. Name one time when world policy is changed due to a terrorist bomb incident(s). Name one time when the world's religious views change due to the same method. Answer = none, never, nada, no way, no how. In fact world policy changes minutely over time with the ever increasing population, customs, beliefs and so on so forth. Religion hardly ever changes, we just end up with an offshoot of a religion. A bomb changed the course of world history only once and then it wasn't a terrorist bomb, but the atomic bomb, and whether or not it was right or wrong, it happened. I'm sure that is their ultimate goal, but nothing has supported the acquisition of the appropriate materials to accomplish that end result. Personally, I think everyone should join my church, THE CHURCH OF BORN AGAIN VIRGINS!

sounds like your not getting a vacuum signal to the secondary diaphram for whatever reason. I've never seen a v8 that couldn't open any of the lighter springs. 14 inches of vacuum indicates a pretty mild cam and coupled with a light car points towards the lighter springs, but, it is definately a vacuum signal problem. You say you hear the hiss when you manually open the secondaries, but where is the air escaping from? Likely that is the source of the problem. Also it would be a vacuum leak at wot so that would lean it out as well. It is either the vacuum cover over the diaphram or the seal between the whole diaphram canister and body of the carb.