dr_hunt

We've had that happen once or twice since I've been around. As old Forest Gump would say, "Stupid is as stupid does!".

Well, in the warranty arena, have you ever had somone instantly remedy the situation? Mostly no, unless you have a no-fault insurance coverage. Engine and trans builders or rebuilders seldom like to think they made a mistake, but who does. Fact is things are mechanical and you have people that will flog them, add nos, blowers, turbo's and generally beat the crap out of them and then try to warranty the engine or trans. But, the intended use of the engine in question is suitably living up to most standards IMO, trying to get warranty out of Jeg's is pointless and a futile waste of time and resources, which would be better spent on rounding up some more $$$ and going HD with parts as your insurance while upping HP and TQ in the process. Hence the bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of a low price! So, yes, that's what I'm saying.

Well, by boring, I mean to say that impressive amounts of HP that you either can hook or not hook in a sprint car, is awesome to watch. Underpowered sprint cars that all look "equal" aren't as appealing to me, to watch. Too much HP is never quite enough and the ability to dial in a chassis and pull the left front half way down the straight is really impressive to me. I find circle track or road racing more tantalizing than drag racing, but anything with an engine is entertainment, even lawnmower racing!

The 305" engine is or was used in a sprint car series. Hardly any fun to watch cause they didn't have the power compared to the 360" or the 410" motor cars. And they actually weren't cheap to build either.

IMO it isn't worth the aggravation. The pain of poor quality lingers long after the feeling of getting a good deal!

I heard that! Just kidding mike.

Actually Mike (on3go) may have logged on as another user or using someone elses call name, password and different IP address. I saw that last night. Let's be clear on this, we can ban IP addresses and those include anyone who helps banned users get or have access to this site!

ledphoot quote; "you know one of chevies baddest small blocks was 302 z28 motor. You can take a 305 and spin the PIZZ out of it! Crank is a large journal ( same as 350 actually interchange) small pistons mean less weight. Swap in a good forged piston, prep the rods with good bolts and polished beams have the whole bottom end balanced. Good headwork , Load it with nitrous or turbo or BOTH and zing it to the moon! Alot of the round track guys here are taking advantage of the # per cube rule and building 305 and 334 ( w 400 crank) and twisting them 9500 rpm! Some of these guys are even running "Claimer" parts ( cheap!)" If you compare a 305 rod to a 350 rod side by side it'll be abundantly evident that they aren't as beefy and the beams are significantly narrower in both dimensions. I wouldn't advocate using 305rods even with good bolts IMO. Claimer "cast" pistons or hypers will grenade at piston speeds with an engine turning 9500 rpm using the 3.48 stroke 305 crank, let alone the 3.75 stroke 400, and the cam and heads required to reach 9500 far exceed budget and streetability. What class of circle track racing allows the use of turbos and Nitrous?

I've seen that on the forums here a time or two. Just ignore 'em. Eventually they will go away.

My TT motor is; gm prod. block +.030 and hard block short filled. GM steel crank (balanced rot. assy.) Eagle H beams with L19 bolts TRW blower pistons, +.030 Speed Pro File fit moly rings Clevite H bearings Custom Comp solid roller, 240/250 ..630/.618 114LSA AFR full cnc 227 cc heads gear drive too much else to list oh, and cometic .040 head gaskets.

Most if not all are TIG or more correctly termed, GTAW welded.

Well, your welcome to take whatever advice from your machine shop you choose too. Fact is there are people that make alot more HP than that out of a sbc with a blower without o ringed heads and block, which relegates you to using copper head gaskets, definately going to be a plus but at $$$$. Stroke has less of an effect on HP in boosted applications than bore does, but it still helps. Forged internals are definately a good decision in case you turn up the boost at a later date. I was over at Edwards Engines about 6 months ago, watching Tom Edwards dyno a blown SBC. Dart Block (350), LA Crank, Carillo Rods, JE blower pistons, Brodix track 1's unported, custom Comp blower cam (unknown specs), 6-71 BDS blower, 2 Demon blower carbs. Mind you this is with Cometic head gaskets, made 1050HP corrected at 7500rpm and was still climbing. I think the boost was around 20psi.

Why are you wanting to O ring both the block and the Heads? At 500HP you should be fine with good quality head gaskets. I think the point in your testing is that you have one cylinder that is quite abit lower than the rest. Not bad for a crate motor that they assemble all 8 pistons and rods in just 2 minutes or so. If your serious about the blower, get quality parts, machined and assembled right and 600 or even 700hp aren't out of the question.

Let's imagine all the retainers smacking the top of the guides, pistons swapping holes and finally somebody letting one of the rods out of the side of the block. You are too funny!

Ceramic coatings, if not applied correctly will not last! If your experiencing problems then either your detonating the engine, or it wasn't applied correctly IMO. In my diesels I run ceramic coated piston tops, 500,000 miles later they look just like they did when they went in, well plus alittle carbon. I run diesel, 30 psi boost, 200 psi fuel injection pressure, on 17:1 compression, generate 1800lb-ft of torque and over 500HP to the tires!

I'd say 5% or less IMO. I'll go out on a limb here and discuss cylinder hone finish abit. In my motors I like a smooth finish 550 grit with 28 to 32 degress of crosshatch. Looks nice and smooth when you get it from the machine shop. I use good brand moly rings, $150 a set, and I don't use zero gap second rings on the street. IMO the engine rings are seated in just a few hours and there is 2% to 5% leakdown or less, which I find acceptable. 13% indicates that on your engine either the rings didn't seat in that hole or that the ring end gaps are either incorrect, possible broken ring (typically the second ring) or the gaps are lined up in some fashion. Rings rotate in the cylinder bores during break in. I've experimented with ring end gap placement and after a short run period if you take it apart some are lined up or almost lined up, no matter where you place them to start with. Chevrolet even has a handy little chart depicting where ring end gaps should be placed on the left and right banks of a v8! The only ring end gaps that typically don't move are the oil rings. I try to line the gaps up 180 degrees opposed on the thrust faces of the piston skirts so that it leaves oil where I want it. With regards to your warranty, welcome to this world of "it's everyone elses fault except mine!" If you tear that engine down and piston to cylinder wall clearance is within tolerance, touch hone it as smooth as you can get the machine shop to do it, typically 440 or finer grit and put in some new moly rings of good quality. You'll end up with slightly more clearance, which doesn't help ring seal but if the clearance is .003 now, .0045 wont' hurt much. Cast pistons don't work very well with more than .004 although I've run them looser on circle track engines, hypers will work tighter or up to .006 or so. Forged as much as .008 depending on piston material, design and manufacturer, so ponder that. Forged pistons usually come undersized quite a bit so the finish bore size is the same for forged as is for any of the others in most cases.

That's nothing! You ought to see what they do on Mondays!

Was especially made just for Brittany Spears when she goes commando out on the town of choice!!!

No worky.

Happy birthday! Damn your old!

your friend is

The 305 is not much of a HP monster, that's for sure. But it does respond to upgrades like better heads, increased compression and cam. More favorable is the 350 which can be had in alot of variations from 2bbl truck motors to LT1's. As far as transmissions the t5 isn't a big TQ handler, 325 sounds about right for a max torque rating, but don't quote me on that one. A 305 with better heads, cam manifold and headers wouldn't be too bad if that's all you have to work with. The connecting rods are inferior IMO to stock 350 rods although they share the same dimensions. The 305 is also a 2 bolt main, not a big issue if your under 350HP which you will be. They have a small bore and fitting heads with larger valves may be a problem. The 1.94 valves work fine in that application IMO. The problem is that the 305 had very small combustion chambers like 58 cc or so and most 350 heads are 64cc and larger with some exceptions. It's all a function of $$$, time and desired end result.

Well, I don't know about times and how significant H2O injection would be in lowering times. I have it but as of yet, it's not up and completely running yet.

The authorities had the chance, could have arrested the juveniles for the felony crimes they committed (They chose not to), which would have resulted in a 60 day psyc evaluation at the state institution for boys which would have been presented to the courts for action, which could have been psyc treatment, counseling, removal from the home, etc, etc. Like I said, the authorities (CYFD and the cops) let those kids down in the worst of ways! Probably too much paperwork for the cop to fill out!!

There are transistors that fire the coil packs, there is a test procedure for those.