dr_hunt

If it's in a z you'll need 2500 stall simply because the car is so light.

sleveing a block can distort the adjacent cylinder. The advice given is correct. In the old days before aftermarket blocks, we used to sleeve all 8 cylinders on 400's for sprint car engines. I've personally run several sleeved 400 blocks with 14 or 15 to 1 compression on alky with no problems.

JNJ is correct, that is definately a 350 balancer.

The 400 balancers are scalloped instead of counterweighted, I'm pretty sure, but anyway look for that, the timing marker on the timing cover will hit unless you use the matching timing cover.

Yes!

I standardized and used a 50 amp dryer plug on everything. Keep in mind that de-rating is for continuous use. Your never in that situation as far as plug and outlet rating are concerned. Wire size is a different story, go with 10 guage.

Wow, your house is as old as mine, judging from those breakers. Anyway, I have a 250Amp mig and I can tell you it's like winkie's, bigger is better, I don't car how well you can use your little unit, it just doesn't get the job done on the thicker material. Sans the mig, get the HTP 200 amp TIG instead!

Admirable, my dad was an A&P mechanic in the USAF in WW2. He owned several planes that we used to fly when I was a kid and also he was a commercial pilot for Braniff and TWA in the early days following the war. I still have his pilots license, log book, flight glasses and all his other stuff. He talked of fixing airframes and skins on B-29's in England during the war. Truly amazing the skills your learning to fix equipment that flies and carries people. He gave me words of advice, which were; Never fly in a personal plane unless he was the pilot and it was too expensive to pursue these days, unlike the old days. If you have a passion for it, and the means to do it, then I'd say go for it.

I think the LT1 efi is the hot setup for high r's. Unless your going forced induction.

I'm not sure about that, we kind of already have your photo album and if you dontate $$$ you get unlimited space to post pic's. We will have a garage forum for the 2 new hybridz cars to be built in the near future. Stay tuned!

Sean at Solid technology, has a 408 ls motor with an 88mm turbo. I think it is in the 1200HP range at about 22psi. Beyond that the heads lift with the stock stud size. Go to the 1/2" studs for alittle more "room".

I can't imagine 2 bar with that setup. You should be in the 1200HP range at around 20psi on gas, assuming the turbo configuration is correct. What's your entire engine package look like?

9-10 should be about right. 7400 rpm, why?? Especially on boost, 2 bar, that's like 29psi! Unless that's a built motor with rods, pistons, etc. that'd be a grenade at 7400.

Our preacher and the deacon's wife were getting it on. That's why I don't go to church anymore, bunch of hypocrites! On the other hand, I've always wanted to go to seminary school, hmmmmmm.............

I'm more the indiana jones type, Smith and Wesson, but I did train in Taekwondo years back, correction, decades back.

You'll love that polaris. I have 2, one is a 1995 425 magnum and the other is the 2000 500 sportsman.

Are you partial to automatics or stick? The t56 would be the best stick and the 200r4 would have the best gearing also and should be able to handle that if built right.

Your correct on the static and dynamic. Also a lot of old skool guys still use the beam wrenches. I've never found where + or - 2 to 3lb-ft ever made a difference. Kind of a preference I guess. Although I did see a kid once use an impact gun to do the rods and mains! Didn't live that long, wonder why?

Well, I still don't see it, I've done diesels, tractors, Continental industrial gas motors, 6 bangers, 4 bangers, etc. Probably what JNJ says. Anyway, the proper scenario is to back the bolt or stud off and re-torque it, not just re-torque it. Torque wrenches don't work very well unless it's a seamless movement that results in the torque click that you hear. If you start at 63 lb and going to 65lb, it'll just click and not move the bolt even though it needs to move the bolt, but that's my experience and my opinion.

I have one just like that one. Works fantastic, can bend up to 135 degrees. No kinks, no errors, just plain sweet bends!!!!

That is really unusual, sounds like you have other problems!! Mainly because that's not how it's supposed to be done. Re-torqueing is supposed to back the bolt or nut off, then re-torque. If you getting that much additional turn on a bolt or nut then somethings wrong IMO.

I've had problems with the MSD's, but they work when they work. I don't drive many miles on them either, so that's probably a big plus.

I'll donate here pretty quick, as soon as I sell some stuff on ebay.

Ok, enough of the pissing contest. I'll put it to you all very simply. If any member can prove that he has gotten duped, by another member on this site over a transaction. The guilty party will be banned! Simple as that. This is not a popularity contest and we won't stand for BS name trouncing either. Leave your emotions on the desk and out of the discussion. Facts and communication are all we are interested in. Frank280zx, get whatever delivered however if you would, work it out, keep it straight. Communication is the key here. Got lost, maybe, shipped uninsured, stupid, if this continues, it'll be costly. Friendly words of advice Provide the info that it got to the border to the buyer and me via PM or email as soon as possible please. I'd like to see both sides of the story. 70z, PM an admin or mod for help before resorting to this type of thread. We are here to help in these types of situations!!! This all should have been handled via PM or email! BTW this whole thread pisses me off!