dr_hunt

Ruh Roh! Busted again!

They say there's a sucker born every minute, it'll sure take one to buy that piece!

Man, I took my sister with me to buy parts the other day and when I whipped out the plastic, they just started running it. I asked "how much?" and they said, well, "not much". I said really, "How much?", he says, "Well, do you really want me to tell you with her standing there?" LOL, I said this is my sister, he says, "Most guys don't want us to say anything in front of their significant others" This guy was talking some serious doo doo, got busted. Likely she'll dump him anyway, he's a looser. Oh, yeah, I beat that black z at SEZ, no not that one, the other one. No, not that one either, the one with the spoiler on the back. No, not that one either, you probably missed it, I had like two bus lengths on him. Next time, you'll see!!!

You are correct, they are studs (my bad) and massive for such a little engine. Actually ARP says 81lb-ft with ARP moly lube, so that's where they are. The thread engagement in the block is like 1.5 inches!! And they are blind holes too! This engine is a little stroker, 2.1L instead of 2.0, WOW! Being that it's a "stroker" it's supposedly only good for 7800rpm. The ports on the head are massive for such small displacement and look nice after I massaged them alittle under the vaves and did a port match. He went with Eagle rods, JE pistons, bigger manley and ferrea valves, crower springs, titanium retainers, custom ground comp cams, GT35R, custom exhaust manifold, aluminum flywheel, the list goes on and on. He has probably 7K or 8K in this little motor as it sits, maybe even more, that's just my guess since I don't know how much he paid for all the little extras. The roller followers were pitted on the valve stem surface, so he has to get new ones from crower, like $260 or so, seems expensive for such a little piece of forged steel with a roller in the middle. But I guess I'm not rice yet, but now I can say I have done the ricer thing with a mitsubishi motor!

Well, since high gear is high gear and 1:1 I don't see how that could be possible to have overdrive at all. You can't put the high drum anywhere but where it goes, so I don't know how he moved it from third to first. I would be able to have super low gearing, but it would be a 9 speed, not a 5 speed. They probably think it's fast because they put the second trans in first and then run the car through the first three gears of the first trans. That way they can talk ricer and say they caught 3 gears before they crossed the stoplight. I guess I'll just be the first to say BS!

LS1's seem to have an oiling problem at high rpm from what I've seen and read. I think Mikelly knows quite abit about this issue.

Funny how they have no sense of humor. I was working at an engineering firm doing civil, wanted to do environmental/water/wastewater, so I found another job on my own time which offered a 10K/year raise. Dingdong secretary at the new place faxed the offer letter to my work. The HR woman (witch) sauntered into my office and threw the fax at me and told me "You'd better accept this offer", minutes later I was in the big bosses (Pres) office where he "fired" me. LOL! Minutes after that I was escorted to my office to clean out my desk and then escorted to the door!

If you want to half a$$ it, do that. If you want it right buy the right parts. Of course you could have the non-original "Junk Yard Dog" car too, but why?!!

I have internally balanced sever 400's just to get away from the external balancers, besides, you can tell everyone it's a 350 and they'll never know.

Last night I was finally installing the head on the little DSM engine. I was getting ready to torque the head bolts and the guy that ownes the car said that the torque specs vary from 80 to 100. I didn't think so, so we checked. ARP says 81lb-ft with arp moly lube. A check of the DSM boards revealed that many people think that more torque on the head bolts keeps head gaskets from failing. Wrong assumption, here's why. Fasteners need to be stretched to maintain proper integrity of the bolt, stud and nut from coming loose and providing the necessary clamping force. This is an elastic region of the bolt. If you over torque the fastener, you get it to yield and go into a plastic deformation which can lead to fastener failure! The point is that you follow manufacturers spec, make sure your surfaces are flat, both the head and block, use proper lubricant and follow torque recommendations by the fastener manufacturer! Do it right, if you don't have what you need, wait until you do, getting done tonight won't help you when your doing it again tomorrow!!!!!!

To use one that small on a 400sbc I think you'll have to be internally balanced then use the 6.25 inch one. That's what I do, works for me. Wrong, I found that summit makes a balancer that is 6.6 inch for the 400 crank.

I did too but I have QA1 coilovers and a solid rear so it took about 5 min to raise it up until it didn't do that anymore.

IMO you can't build an engine for "crate sales". To me everyone is different and each car is different, weight, tires, gear, trans, etc., therefore the engine needs are different. If your going that route and having one built, then there are several builders of custom engines that can do the job. I was at Edwards last week watching a sbc 350 dyno at 1100HP with a 6-71 blower and carbs on it! That's what I'm talking about, pure mean HP! Not every builder can get it done.

I had to register on racing junk to see it, then you just right click, copy url address, post it here. No biggie, even for an 'ol toyota mechanic thats wandering around on the internet racing datsun z's in his spare time.

Not too late, have some personal family issues delaying the purchase. Soon to be rectified though, due time.

Grumpy isn't building motors as he's swamped for a year or so. But you may get on the list. That engine in ebay while being a good deal, isn't what I would consider HD. Crate engines by bigger builders that have volume sales will be cheaper IMO to what grumpy builds, since it seems that he and I both prefer HD parts to OEM. It's insurance, plain and simple, for me, not you. Insurance costs money so you get what you pay for, IMO.

Of course that is your opinion, many people find them very desireable, usefull and dependable as I do the Gen 1 motors. Myself, I am being dragged into the technology age, you seem to be already there with the next gen sbc.

Now that there are aftermarket cranks, you can buy a 3 inch stroke or 3.25 inch stroke and build one in a 4 bolt 350 block. Also Childs and Albert makes special bearings to run the small journal crank in the medium journal 350 block. Would get my vote if your going to build one since it keeps bearing speed down. Hotrod magazine did a 3.25 stroke small journal in a 400 block, yielding 350 cubic inches that made over 400HP very nicely in a streetable package.

Either your cam is flat on a couple of lobes or you bent pushrods, Either of which is terminal and will require engine disassembly. If you bent pushrods, then you have issues with retainer to guide clearance, coil spring bind or rocker bind. If you wiped the cam, and don't have the oil filter bypass blocked your engine bearings may have to be replaced and the crank polished or turned, pistons may be scuffed, cylinder walls may be scored, etc. A host of problems sadly to say. Don't run it anymore, but it sounds like you've run it too much as it is. Remove engine, tear down and go from there.

I talked to the guy, it's about as rust free as you can get, a new door, which I have and fender, also have and paint, it's done. Anybody want it? I have the trailer to get it. Not what I'm looking for really, I want a daily driver. If anybody is interested I'll check it out in person. 505.463.6779 is my cell number.

Pimp it baby, I'm all over it. I'll check it out!

You must be dreaming in technicolor with dolby surround sound.

Quote from the sticky on turbocharging; "Many will argue that nothing is free and you need pressure to spin the turbine, and this must take pumping losses." (This is your argument) "They are wrong because the turbo is not getting anything for free at all, it is just making the engine more efficient. It is true, there are pumping losses, but on the other hand there are pumping gains as well. If the exhaust back pressure is lower than the intake, the intake pressure makes more force on the intake stroke to help push the piston down. At the same time, another piston is on it's exhaust stroke. So, the intake pressure is more than cancelling out the exhaust pressure. Not FREE, JUST MORE EFFICIENT." So, turbocharging increases efficiency, thats all Im saying.