dr_hunt

It works, it fits, it was on the pinks car, so I don't see what the issue is, with exception of the exhaust manifold. Easily remedied with a tig welder some good stainless tubing, flanges and $$$$.

Yeah, but they have 11 degree valve angle, raised ports, so some sbc heads similar in construction flow very nicely too!

which part #, there are several, some of which are cnc ported from GM. I thought the l92 head and the ls7 head were the same, minus the porting. Even still box stock exhaust flows are alot higher than what you posted according to ls1.com. I see you got called on the same thing on LS1.com....

Ok, just had to check, your not oiling the top end for some reason, the guides need some oil to function, yours obviously didn't get any. But it's too late now. That motor probably has other problems now too, but it still will make a great boat anchor! Oh, and ditch the worthless fram filters and get a real filter would you!

Is it me or am I not seeing oil anywhere on the valve train like I should be?

I think I'd go z for the track car, keep the bimmer for a daily driver.

From what I've seen, box stock they flow like this, from LS1 Tech.com; Intake: .100 67 .200 150 .300 222 .400 295 .500 341 .600 368 .700 367 Exhaust: .100 43 .200 111 .300 168 .400 207 .500 222 .600 227 .700 231 You sure you got the numbers right?

I assume the last row there is supposed to read .600 not .300. I hope there is some more work to be done cause while the intake flows great the exhaust flows really are horrible.

Well, that's an old skool link, seen that in the past, problem is that you don't have any idea what the fuel flow through the carb will be IMO. The reason I say that is carb size and booster type will alter the "signal" that the carb sees, that and cam, heads, intake, etc. This guy is mandating drill size which dictates flow. C&S offers this type of modification for circle track applications, not for drag, the holes above the jets in the back are uncovered during hard luanches and the carb goes lean. In my experience it's better and less headache to buy a good alky carb and go faster. I bought 2 alky carbs from "People like this guy in the article". One on ebay that said his carbs make more power than the big name carbs for $800. I was running gas, switched to alky with his carb, picked up 3 tenths. Ok, took out hydraulic cam, ported my heads, installed solid roller, and it ran the same time! WTF? Talked to a different guy, he said your needle and seat are maxed out for flow and therefore HP so your running lean. 60's improved but that's it. So, popped those out, sure enough .130 needle and seats. A check of flows for needle and seats at 8psi indicated that they would only flow enough alky for 450HP which is what I was making. Damn, so I sold that carb on EBAY for $350, bought another FROM THE NEW GUY FOR $650, had bigger needle and seats but, would run you out of the shop at an idle, way rich on the bottom end to get it close on the top end so fuel metering circuits were all out of whack (READ AIR BLEEDS AFU and passages wrong size). BTW, drilling out an air bleed leans it out not the other way around. So, I sold that carb on EBAY for $400 and bought a C&S aerosol billet with a 30 day money back guarantee. Now I have 2 of those and never been happier. Oh, they are about $1000 or more and you "GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!"

Check this out http://www.sporttruck.com/techarticles/132_0110_horsepower_upgrade/ I think the motor mounts will be different, but the back of the block should end up in the same place as a v8 as the mounting pads on the side of the block are in the same location in reference to the back of the block as a v8.

I run alky and I do neither. No bowl extensions, floats set as normal. The trick is to have proper fuel delivery. High flow .150 4 port needle and seats, 11psi fuel pressure at WOT and about 3psi at idle, proper fuel lines, I run -8 to each fuel bowl off of a -10 line for NA applications, jet extensions on back if your 60 foots are lower than 1.64 or so. IMO if your running the bowl dry and think you need more volume in the bowl, then your needle and seat doesn't flow enough and increasing the bowl volume only delays the problem. What happens then is you go lean and run out of fuel at the 200 ft instead of 100 ft off the line. Motor lays down, has good 60 foots but nothing after that. But that's my experience on the track.

Something un-noticeable, like crowers 00978. Cheap, will work better than stock .390/410 cam.

The sportsman 2 heads were and do offer good performance from 2500 rpm up. On a 406 they are great and I noticed no low rpm loss. When I first got them I was running a 2200 stall and the monte would lay rubber for 20 to 30 feet with the stock posi rear end. They don't flow well at big lift so they are ideally suited to .500 lift cams or so, I'd say .550 is about the limit, any more lift than that nets you little with those heads. I ran them stock and then ported the snot out of 'em and ran a big solid roller. They make good power, but not like the AFR's do. Good budget choice though. Well, my street car was a 12.50 car, drove it everyday to work, 9:1 406ci. I don't think neon srt's are anywhere near that fast IMO, at least I've never run into one

Those are pretty nice heads. I went 12.33 with those on the 406 in the Monte before I went AFR's. In a z that would translate to a 11.30 since it's about 1100 lbs lighter and then the DA was around 7500 ft. So, they are capable heads with the right combination. Mine were 72 cc chambers.

Yup, in the down position. Someone said, kickdowns are for girls! And I always wondered why they had that when they had a shifter anyway.

First of all, thanks grumpy for the link. I bought it this AM, it will ship to day and I'll have it by next wednesday! This is it; http://www.htpweld.com/products/tig_welders/tig201.html They had used ones (6 hours of use) on ebay, that ended up selling for more than they cost new, amazing! I got a email from them saying that they would sell me one for $75 less than the winning bid, NIB. I opted for the water cooler, 25 foot torch and pedal and a host of consumable supplies for alum, mild, and stainless steel, I even got the pyrex cups which I think are amazing! I have tons to do, so it won't take long to become reaquainted with getting it done. I'll let you all know how I like it and how it works.

I cut the cable off at the plastic trans end, attach it and silicone it up so it doesn't leak.

Sorry for your loss, that's sad, sounds like so many I've heard lately. I remember him posting some time back. God speed.

You did the right think by pulling over. Breaking was the wrong thing. Next time wave real big and mouth I'm sorry if you can, of course at night that won't work.

Sounds great and it's all grumpys fault!! I love it. The T56 is the best manual trans IMO since it has OD for cruising. Should get killer mileage with the turbo and have pleanty of power. When he's doing the stock rebuild opt for a mild hydraulic turbo cam, lifters and matching springs, you won't be sorry!

You need more compresion with that cam to make the HP, or a tighter lobe center, like a 108, it'll fill the cylinders alittle better. I've never been a fan of wide lobe center cam for anything except blower/turbo or RV cams.

If I can find one soon, either that or the victor E.

I had one do that once, played with it for hours trying to get the converter in. Had a trans building buddy come by and he couldn't get it all the way in. finally, the next day I tried one last time and pop, went right in, bolted up to the block fine, works fine.

Git r done! I have to install another safety harness on the passenger side first, I have one, just need to install it. Oh, and get it running, which it's close, but alittle snag today. The left corner of the intake is leaking water. So, I have to pull the intake. Rather than screw with it, I'm just going to replace it. It's a 35 year old edelbrock scorpion intake and I've never run it on anything, so I think there's a problem with it, so I'll stuff it on ebay and donate some $$$ to hybridz!!!!!!

You know Braap, you've got a real problem there I think!!!! The oil feed line on that turbo is larger than the sump pickup tube!!!! That thing is going to starve for oil or else your going to have to call opec and have them deliver you an extra barrel and a pump to feed it!