dr_hunt

I think Dan has forgotten more than most people know about computers. It's a lot more complicated than that, I'll wait for the news to unfold ala SuperDan when he's ready to disclose what happened.

:lmao: At first I thought it was a joke there were 3 posts all with nothing in them. So I sent you a PM asking you if we had to read your mind or what? You didn't respond so I figured you got mad, so I sent you another PM telling you I was joking and that really the posts were blank, no content. But then some other posts started showing up the same way, 2 or 3 at a time, all the same. Then the site went down for a few hours, but have no fear, SuperDan is here, he got it all fixed, so it was not your fault and I was just joking with you!!!!

No there was nothing in it, we had issues today with the server. Git R done scottie!

You know MSHA is always telling me I need a guard over everything that moves. I'm thinking who would be stupid enough to stick a finger or hand anywhere near that kind of stuff? Well, now we know, so we'll call it the Bob Norwood factor! Or maybe the Bob Nofinger factor!

Dayuuum, if only my garage was that clean and had that in it!

Well that depends on pressure, but from the above chart you can see which pump you are running. Absolute Maximum Horsepower at 12 volts free flowing at zero psi, the standard pump is 644HP. So, if you figure in line losses, fitting loss and fuel bowl needle and seat losses, your going to be cutting it real close, probably too close IMO if your using the standard pump, the HP pump is alot better and would work IMO. That is what we were talking about anyway was the use of the walbro 255lph pump, not line size capability. The best recomendation is to check with the manufacturer or dealer to get the information on their pumps. Only this way can you be sure that you are getting a pump that will safely support the horsepower you plan to make.

I don't know what the distance of your fuel line route is. IMO you should run 1/2" to the regulator and 3/8" back. As an example I have a Aeromotive A2000 pump on my alky system and it has a cutoff return fuel log from C&S, that is open when the throttle is closed and then shuts off the bypass valve (adjustable closure ball valve) to achieve 11psi at the carb running at WOT. With the system completely open, -10 line (5/8") to and from the fuel log, no regulator, no 90 degree fittings, I get 3.5psi pressure reading at the carb and 7psi reading at the pump in the back of the car! At WOT I'm reading 18 psi at the pump. So the line losses can be significant with enought flow which makes it harder on the pump and draws more amps. The difference in cost between 3/8" and 1/2" will be minimal to the potential headaches down the road if it's not big enough to support the power your making and if it exceeds the pumps capacity to deliver at whatever your systems dynamic pressure is. My new TT350 is going to use the A1000 pump, -10 feed line to the regulator, -8 return as recommended by Aeromotive for the distance I have plumbed. Even this pump may not be enough when I'm done, in which case I'll add another one.

Well, I'm going to guess that it'll make about 400HP at the flywheel, which will be a substantial increase over what you have. I'd bet money your grinning when you drive it!

Truly a great combination of information, more is sure to come regarding different aspects of the z cars. Maybe you could add some pics of the different diffs to go into the thread! I'll give you an option on installation of a solid rear that's pretty simple later, maybe you could add that along with the pics I provide. In redoing all the old posts and combining all this wonderfull knowledge into one thread, are you going to make an searchable archive or a bunch of stickies?

:lmao: Quick a 50cc shot of common sense please!

Personally, I like the danger sign painted on the hood in front of the turbo, adds a nice touch although being completely useless since birds and bugs can't read!

Pretty quick, the secret is the 720HP sbc under the bonnet!

Your engine is toast. If you were planning on doing a rebuild, a v8 swap or any other swap, now's the time.

Ok, so you would have 2 lower gears in the first trans input into the second trans that you wouldn't normally have. so you have 9 speeds, none of which is OD! The point of all of that is????? How does the first trans mate to the second trans, doesn't look like much holding the two together in any type of correct alignment. Seems that the pump in the second trans would take a beating if misaligned. What a joke!

I'm running stock rad.

You still have to consider the pumping gains from pressurized intake charge ,which is greater than the pumping loss, since the intake pressure exceeds the exhaust pressure.

X2!

So, speedracer bids trying to find out what the kuwait guy bid, then out of the blue comes tricky ricky and bids one time just more than the kuwait guy. $1500+ bones for that car!!!! It doesn't run, the engine is locked up! Who would pay that kind of money for that?

You left out the straight axle installation descriptions, although you mention them in your original list.

I think all you LSx swap guys ought to head to SEZ in March!

Thought of that, but the second trans wouldn't work until the pump was turning which would be attached to the rear end somehow. Would be a weird driveline.

I have several friends that drive "rice" cars and they say that in their circle, that is commonplace. He says, you'll get a second chance offer anyway so don't sweat it. I'm not sweating it, it was taking funds away from the TIG anyway and it's not worth more than $500 IMO. There will be another car, better and cheaper.

There is some serious jacking going on in that auction. Two guys, one in denmark and one in kuwait, both with zero feedback and newbies have bid on that car. The seller is one of those rice boys doing the rice thing!