TheNeedForZ

If I purchase a Gen III iron block truck engine that originally comes with 4L80E auto, let's say if I want to use 4L60E instead, what are the things I need to do to use the 4L60E? Does it bolt right up to the engine? What about changing the ECM since it controls the shift points.

thanks to you all

You guys listed some great choices.(I have never seen that Attack kit car, NICE) My personal fantasy hybrid would be a TOYOTA PRIUS, powered by one(or maybe two if there is room) HUGE gasoline motor(s) with exhaust pipes sticking out. 5.7 liter SBC times two. Start the car and watch everyone in the parking lot duck down to the ground. Heehee.

Been reading about the GenIII GM engines for a while and was wondering : will the 6.0 genIII iron block truck engines with 4L80E automatic transmission be a good swap for the Z? What's the main difference between 4l60e and 4l80e? capability? weight? size? I have searched but didn't see questions like this. I don't think anyone has done the swap.... Thanks

They are "windows media audio/video files". Would be great if I know what kind of setting to use. BRAAP : I am already using a converter....

Don't laugh. I wanted to convert all of the 240Z restoration videos by Mull into iPod format so I can watch them whenever I want to. The problem is that after I converted the videos, the image has no problem showing, but the sound will only play for a few seconds and then the sound either gets very choppy or disappears. What could have gone wrong? The converter used is Videora. Thanks

A working clock

If some lameo driver got behind me and put on the highbeam, I'd just wave at him to get his attention, and then turn my rear view mirror sideways.

SINISTER! It already looks great before it is finished.

I saw an ad positng for a pair of gen III cylinder heads that came off off a 6.0L motor. Emailed the owner to ask questions about the heads and this is what he replied: "they are LQ9 heads and carry the #317 casting number valves are 2.00 / 1.55 chambers should be 68cc I just had the heads decked and checked and cc'd earlier this year. the chamber volume is punch stamped on the head from the machinist." Anyone know about this "317" head? I checked some data on a magazine, the valve sizes are correct(any gen 3 engine 5.7L or bigger has the same valve sizes), but are the heads worth the 500$US the seller asks for? Searched the site, googled too, but found nothing.

Yeah you are right. I meant to say the gen 3 truck engine, LQ9 or whatchamacallit.

Thanks to you all, I'll definitely ask for the details of the engine. I agree 3500$CDN for engine without the trans is kinda steep. If the owner is not willing to lower the asking price, which I doubt he will, then I'll pass. I actually begin to look into the idea of 6.0L LT1 also, since the gen 3 parts are all interchangeable.

I will be checking out a LS1 engine soon. I've talked to the owner on the phone and according to him, he believes the engine was pulled from a 2000 Corvette and the engine is made in 97 with odometer less than 25k. Apperently he bought the engine from somebody else as well. He said the engine is in spotless condition. He wants it gone because there is no space, and wants 3500$CDN(about 3050$US) for it and doesn't come with any transmission. The seller provided a list of accessories the engine has, but since I don't know what accessories the engine SHOULD have, I can't tell what's missing. He said the engine has the intake manifold but not the intake which I think is the induction pipe. He also said something about the drive-by-wire throttle which I know the Corvette uses. Recalling from memory, I think he said that he bought the engine to hotrod an European car, but didin't realize the LS1 has e-throttle and he purchased one for 500$, and now he's running out of space. Here's the list of things the engine has : low mileage complete motor new e-gas pedal all sensors hei coils waterpump manifolds injectors intake Didn't say anything about wiring harness or PCM computer so I will ask him before I pay him a visit. Here's the questions to you guys : 1. Is it a good price for an LS1 without transmission? Note this guy is local so I don't need to pay shipping. 2. How do I read the identity of the engine(year, car model) 3. What should I pay attention to when looking at the engine to prevent getting a lemon, since we know that all LS1s come from wrecked cars. 4. What are the essential accessories that must come with the engine so I don't have to spend huge $$$ buying discrete parts(like him buying the e-pedal) in order to make the engine work. Thanks. (Searched a bit but didn't find a "LS1 buyers guide" sort of thread)

Nice stuff. I too cought the "Z bug" after seeing a Z a couple of years ago, which is unusual for me since I didn't even like cars back then. Well now Austin your car is probably the beginning of a kid's dream somewhere. Z cars....can you say "heritage"?

I think it is actually a very neat idea!!!

Thanks y'all. Just a quick follow up question : how do I take the end cap off? I want to take it off from the one that actually has the cap to see the shape of the cap in case I have to make one(McGuyver it) You mean my local Nissan parts house is not likely to have this part?

I bought a pair of Z31 turbo halfshafts along with a 87' CLSD(they come from the same vehicle). When the package arraived, there is something missing(at least I think) on one of the shafts. Here's my question I asked the seller cut and pasted here. The seller hasn't responded yet but I figure it won't hurt to ask more people. Hi, I got the CLSD diff and halfshafts today. I am still checking everything to make sure there is no more missing parts, however there is something missing, I think, and it's one of the sealing caps. There are two halfshafts and they should both have a silver-colored lid that seals the joints at the wheel end, but only one of them has the lid. The other one doesn't and I can see the grease and joint inside. this is my drawing of a halfshaft, with the differential end(the one end that has spleens going into the diff) pointing up, and wheel end pointing down. ...._ ....|| <----diff end, with spleens .../.. ..{...} <----rubber boot _..|| _..|| ..{...} <---rubber boot ..|__| =[_._]= <---4 bolt flange, wheel side. ......__ ......| ......... ...........missing a shiny silver "cap" or "lid" here and the joints and grease are visible and exposed. The question is, do you still have the cap/lid, if not, is it possible to get it from parts stores? Some additional question : what is the shiny "lid" called and how is it attached to the shaft? On the one shaft that did come with the lid, I can't take the lid/cap out.... Thanks

better check what's in the exhaust pipe before you start the car.

These people have the purest minds; they do not have any preconceived idea about what "fast" should be.

That's how it works in an NA car, the one on eBay is a turbo manifold, there is hardly any scavenging effect in a turbo car since the manifold is always pressurized from turbine back pressure.

I think equal length headers is more important for NA cars. The way the ebay seller made his manifold is so that every exhaust pulse can arrive at the turbine without bouncing off walls. From what Iv'e learned, keeping the pulses as unmolested as possible benefits boost response, that's about it. See how some of those 4-cylinder turbo manifolds look like 4 ram's horns? That's keeping the pulses unmolested. However that is not to say his claims are not possible. Remember folks, a HP number only refers to peak horsepower regardless of how the rest of rpm range performs. If the ebay seller makes his torque in the high rpm range(this is possible with a different turbo, cam), he will be capable of making a high HP figure, higher than most street setups since a typical street turbo setup makes torque in the middle rpm range.

Tony D, Now that's some good stuff you don't hear everyday In fact just the other day I was wondering "What if AC is used to cool the intercooler...? Has any one tried that before?" A couple days later I got a book(by David Vizard) about nitrous and I realised that whomever wants more power from denser intake charge is probably just going to run liquid wet shot nitrous....chemical supercharging/cooling and there is no limit to the amount of power nos can make except the strength of the block. The AC cooled intercooler is still interesting because unlike nitrous, it's never spent or going to blow up

(looking at the first pic) Well Doc you are certainly younger than I imagined. Who's the guy crouching next to you holding the rifle? :biggrin:

A lot of "baby go" switches in a Civic....an automatic Civic. Well that's what we call "suicide bomber doors".