TheNeedForZ

If you want to remove the engine from the bottom, this book has step-by-step instructions. But since the procedure requires a car lift, it is probably useful as a reference for your mechanics if they have never removed LS1 from an f-car. It is a good book on LS1 by the way. http://www.amazon.com/How-Build-High-Performance-Chevy-V-8s/dp/1884089844/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2/102-4885725-2776110?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1179211016&sr=8-2 If you want to remove it from the top of the engine bay, Haynes Repair Manual has a short description of the procedure. The engine is seperated from the trans first, then hoisted out. I still recommend you get this book because you need general overhaul procedures and torque specs, etc. http://www.amazon.com/Haynes-Chevrolet-Camaro-Pontiac-Firebird/dp/B0002KKR1U/ref=sr_1_2/102-4885725-2776110?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1179212445&sr=8-2

"Detected, did you know go in and you tell me do things I done run in" ????me neither.

Yes the easiest way seems to be from the bottom

at least he's polite, and that's more important in my book Have you looked into these ? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120562 The maker of those new TB's offers a deal of 1800$ for six IIRC The biggest difference between ITB carbs and ITB EFI is that carbs needs a venturi, it's always a compromise between vacuum signal and flow. A smaller venturi gives you better response, but limits flow at higher rpm. A bigger venturi flows more, but does not benefit lower rpm performance. An EFI system does not need venturi, but you need to know how to tune it with aftermarket systems, perhaps a laptop.

YOU DA MAN!! That pretty much re-ignited my faith in the ol' straight six. Stroked with N42? I thought N42 has a smaller chamber than P90? How do you get as low as 7.5 CR? What's the reason for using N42 instead of P90?

If the MAF is the same(having same parts# for different years seems to imply so), then you should be able to use any year of 300ZXT ECU provided that you are running stock-ish boost. If you are going to run higher boost, you will need to reprogram the ECU. 87~89 ECU's are easier to make changes since some scalar values are stored in the memory. Global value changes(for example : after changing to bigger injectors) can be made by changing just one value. With earlier ECU, you will need to change ALL values in the map because those scalar values are constant. Back when I was searching for ECU to use, I asked about using maxima ECU's. Turns out maxima ones are ok as long as it is reprogrammed for turbo applications. Maxima use a smaller MAF but since it is going to be reprogrammed anyway, it doesn't increase any work load. This is the thread about my ECU search : http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104958&highlight=maxima+ecu I strongly suggest that you talk to the people that helped me in the above thread. Very helpful. The thread also teaches one how to distinguish between a "easily tuned" ECU and a "harder to tune" ECU.

That was your lot? I bid a dollar and thought I might get it for less than 50$, went to watch drag races and forgot the time, when I got home and checked again, the auction is over at 162$ !!! Well I already have a set of L24 rods so no loss, no loss....

One note that will help improve the safety in almost any vehicles : Don't let heavy objects lay around loosely in the cabin. When crash happens, they can be thrown toward people. When a car travels at 70MPH, the ball-peen hammer inside the car travels at the same speed. If the car comes to a sudden stop(crash), the hammer keeps going forward at 70 mph, imagine the damage a 70mph hammer can do to someone.

Maybe you should back up your statements too. The whole "having no extinguisher is safer than having an extinguisher" notion. But we already know that your out of support on that one. The guy just want to make his car "safer" (not "deathproof"). You were saying something about "the most danger comes from yourself", "false sense of security" ,"I doubt A will work", "I'd like to see the proof on the effectiveness of B", "if you mess up, A,B,C can be used against you in court"....plus some more arguments. C'mon....stop giving lectures and start giving answers.

not mine http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NO-RESERVE-83-6cl-turbo-280z-motor_W0QQitemZ170109494270QQihZ007QQcategoryZ6763QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Pop N Wood, To each his own I guess. If you don't want to carry an extinguisher on your car, I am not forcing it on you. You know I respect your ideas but I can't accept them all. Let's get back to topic before the thread heads for the blender...

Spotted this video on youtube, looks somewhat like a 240Z commercial. From the vibe of it, I'd say it's intended for Jamaica if it were a commercial haha.

wow the motor can sing. Gosh I love that sound, didn't know they make sounds like that. I want one, rb25debtdebtdebtdebt.

An extinguisher is not NEEDED for safety on a properly maintained vehicle, but an extinguisher IS NEEDED for safety on a burning vehicle I think a car is, or is presumed, properly maintained and problem-free.....until something breaks. I just bought two extinguishers two days ago, one for the house one for the S30 when it is finished. I don't care how carfully I wire/protect the car with respect to fire hazard, I will bring my extinguisher. It's only 2.5 pounds, it might make the difference between stopping a vehicular disaster and watching things burn. Besides, you might be able to use it to save somebody else, so why not? Suppose I have a turbo car that is 100% trouble free. I go out for a ride but something needs my immediate attention after a drive. I pull over to the side of road due to an emergency. While I leave my vehicle to attend to my business, the long, dry grass under the car touches the hot turbo exhaust and catches fire, if not stopped soon it will begin to cook the fuel lines.....YOU SEE? it's not always the thing ON the car that can start a fire, it can be grass, cigarette butt on the carpet, static at the gas pump, oily rag....or whatever. So buy an extinguisher, it's a good investment.

??? this is a thread about body kits...try ask in a different section.

I think it has been posted before...

Bryan, I sent you an email with a quarter area photo attached, did you get it?

correction...just got info from a site, CTS-V does not use dual mass flywheel; it's TPIS single mass flywheel....

Hi, I have a LS1 engine from a 98 Camaro(originally a 6-speed car) I was wondering if a T56 from the Cadillac CTS-V will fit the S30 car, or what does it take to make it fit? So far I gathered on the internet : input shaft is longer bellhousing is longer (perhaps larger too, hit S30 firewall? if trans moves back due to longer bellhousing, does John's Cars Kit fit?) uses "dual mass flywheel" and "twin clutch"...something like that, like a Z06 shifter is not on the transmission body = need a aftermarket shifter What have you guys heard about the interchangability? Thanks

great, welcome to the forum. Remember to post your progress in the member's project area so everyone can see it(although they can't post a response in other's project thread, only you can)

congrats, I am looking forward to see it on TV.

Email doesn't always work. Sometimes the server does funny things and the most important emails get directed to the bulk/spam/junk folder. Keep calling.

Thanks guys, I bought some today

hey thanks for posting that. Fiorano is HOT. I saw it on the magazine and something strange about the car caught my eyes...the car has front mounted engine(and IIRC front transmission, didn't look closely) but the weight distribution is rear-heavy, what's up with that?

I am looking to make some molds to cast a few small parts for myself. Where can I buy silicone rubber? Marine supply stores? Home Deopt? Arts supply store? Looking for brand recommendation as well. Thanks