TheNeedForZ

Ah you lucky fella. I wanted that gun so much. We can't get a Saiga in Canada because it's a AK look-alike. Can't have Dragunov/look-alike either

I am looking for some information : Say we have a typical hot-rod 450HP naturally aspirated SBC, what's the highest EGT (exhaust gas temperature) within its operating range? Suppose we have a 550HP supercharged SBC, what's highest EGT within its operating range? Thanks

When I saw the thread about Hyundai making a RWD car for 2009, I was reminded of a concept car by Dodge that I saw in a car mag few weeks back. Did some search and here it is. Dodge Demon. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/2010-dodge-demon.htm

I once created a situation in which I caused another driver to swirve into a curb. I did acknowledge the fact I caused a dangerous situation and I paid for his damage. No collision, but I agree I made a dangerous move. He can't make you pay for his rim UNLESS you created a dangerous situation. The questions is, WERE YOU DRIVING SAFELY? You have a witness(your friend) by you, would she agree that you were driving safely? Would she agree that you did a shoulder check and agrees there was no car visible in the outer lane when you switched? If you took all the reasonable safety precautions, then it is not your fault. If the mustang swirved because you made a lane change without checking your blind spot, or you checked the blind spot but didn't really take the time to see.....you lose, and you should pay for it. That doesn't sound good to me at all. If I were a lawyer I will ask you to stop saying that. If you put that in the police report then it is even worse. If you say you are willing to compensate for the damage, then it is believable (to a judge) that you felt guilty and you caused the damage. When someone is innocent and feels outraged by an accusation, they won't say stuff like "I'll pay you as soon as I get the money." I am not saying you are at fault for sure, but it's a mistake inexperienced ppl make; they are not guilty but says something like "I'll pay ASAP."

haaht~~pocket~~ this is hilarious. http://video.google.ca/videoplay?docid=-8335789340616088723&q=%22jim+gaffigan%22&total=463&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=0

How good are they at preventing exhaust backflow at low rpm? I am looking for a comparo in which an engine with long-duration cam, smaller LCA is tested(in other words, a lot of overlap) with regular headers and anti-reversion headers. How much do they cost compared to regular headers without anti-reversion cones? Who makes/sells them? Thanks

well, just believe me when I say most college/university have this policy. Just like in corporate policies, you can't submit a patent application in secret. You have to submit to the school. If they give up on the invention then the student can have it. I am asking for the name of the law so I can look more into it, see how it is reinforced or how strongly it is reinforced. Since students don't sign any agreements or contracts when they enroll a school, maybe they cannot reinforce this policy.

It's a law that says any invention from any student, staff, facuty member of a college/university that is the result of using the college/university's resources (equipment, funds, people) belongs to the college/university. Meaning if you are a student at XX university, XX university is entitled to inventions that you come up with during your enrollment in that university. Most colleges/universities have this policy if not all of them. I recall there is a name for this law...what is it? thanks

Since you claimed you don't know much about engines...how do you know it has spun a bearing? Did your mech tell you that or does the engine sound bad after oil pressure is back to normal? If it did spin a bearing, the bad news is there could be damage to the crank journals(scuffing) which requires crank be removed and regrind. I am not familiar with the belly side of a Z31, but if you can drop the oil pan without crossmember getting in the way, then theoretically you can change bearings and examine journals from the bottom without pulling the engine, but it's very tricky. Before you go for a total rebuild, ask if you really need it. I'd be bummed if I rebuild my engine to fix an electrical problem. An engine that needs rebuild is one that is ALWAYS down on power(worn tolerance), but it won't give you a problem one day and be ok the next day. Rebuilding an engine will tighten up the tolerances and that's about it. An engine is a system with many components including electrical ones and sensors. After years of service these components expire at different times...that gives you the feeling that you are having car trouble all the time; the parts are taking turns to die just to mess with you. These problems cannot be addressed by rebuilding the engine. If what happened to you happened to me, I'd buy a low mileage engine of the same type(Vg30et ? how much are they?) and swap it in in a weekend. I'll put the damaged engine on the engine stand to replace the bearings. After I fix the damage I'd sell the rebuilt engine or keep it as a spare.

That book has taught me a few things, but sadly it is no longer in print or quite rare or something ...hence the high price. When I bought mine on Amazon there were only two copies left. As soon as I bought mine, the price shot up to 400$ for the very last book. Price has come down now because more are available. You say it's expensive but I actually paid more for mine. This book is not about increasing output with bolt-on's but more about prepping and choosing the right parts(so no, you won't learn how to increase hp from this book). However, if you want to know more about engine bottom end prep then this book is worth having/collecting. Sorry BRAAP I won't part with mine, but I want to say get the book back now, even at 150$ it is still cheaper than the price I paid for it....

"yeah who wants TQ when you can rev to 8K?" I agree, that's why I traded my 383 stroker for my dentist's 5-speed dental drill. I swear to god when that thing revs to 30000rpm and touches my teeth I can SMELL atomized tooth powder. Smells like burnt hair and menthol

If space allows, you can remove one spark plug and probe something into the chamber and "feel" the piston top. You should be able to determine whether the piston is dished or flat. The dish on my stock L28ET is around 3mm deep that's pretty significant. That requires the engine be in your possesion, sorry I don't know how to check IF it is not available for checking. If you know the year/model of the car, then perhaps you can figure it out by visiting some of the informative Z websites dedicated to L engines.

Thanks for the answers. I haven't thought about asking the cam makers. Makes plenty of sense....they have the know-how and want the consumer to use valve train components to match the cam profile/lift(however radical that might be), so the cam can reach its potential, which results in good reputation for their companies.

Suppose one is to say "I need to put together an engine that needs to rev to ---- RPM and I want to minimize or eliminate valve float and valve bounce. How does one choose the valve train components? If valve lift and cam lobe profile are not compromised, what are the things that can be done to minimize valve float/bounce? Is there a math formula for choosing a spring that will minimize valve float/bounce at given RPM knowing mass/inertia of some components? Thanks

From some of the Kanji I can read/guess : Smaller engines are 4000~5000Yen (about 40~50USD) Larger ones 20000~30000Yen (about 200~300USD) or did I read it wrong?

I love it. Finally, my dream of cuddling with my engine to sleep comes true. I would buy it if I have a chance Now I just need a plastic one so I can take them into my bathtub.

like qwik240z said, you can prolly convert easily from auto to manual because with MT the driver controls all the shifting. Converting MT to auto might pose a problem as the software and sensor that control automatic shifting might not exist in the MT car. I know converting from M6 to A4 is not what you want, but I am just saying. I am still torn between A4 and M6...qwik240z, do you still have the auto trans?

Do you guys even realize that car can transform into a robot? oh wait....I am back to reality now.

huh 280ZX has a G nose kit too? Never knew that...thanks for sharing.

That option is available in highend restoration. The kind of business that has the facility to do that is rare, but it is out there although expensive. I remember seeing an article about somebody's restoration project, and it mentioned complete-car zinc plating after acid dipping. In a more recent magazine, a new(to me) but bizzare(to me) idea was introduced : spraying liquid metal alloy directly on bare metal as a form of coating.

ROFL, that music deserves a grammy.

I remember when I was on ZDriver. Here's a funny story : One time a guy came and asked what a turbo is. Several knowledgeable members replied and explained how it uses exhaust to drive a turbine and how the turbine is coupled to a compressor. How a turbo car makes more torque. Ignition requirements and air fuel ratio changes were explained. They said a lot of things to explain to the guy. IIRC even some links were posted. Then the guy replied "is turbo a button"? Seeing that response, a member said "I give up" and the guy got mad and said a few bad things that were edited out by the admins and then the guy was banned.

well that' lowrider picture is the finniest pic I've seen this week.

That car is one of the very interesting speciments in GT4. When I raced against computer opponents, I can beat other cars but never the Chaparral 2J. Can't beat it no matter what I do/upgrade and I didn't know why. Used the "can't beat 'em, join 'em" startegy, bought the same car and upgraded it until I beat the computer controlled Chaparral 2J. The car has only 3 gears and looks really boxy and "sealed up", not to mention low ground clearances. From the rear, the car has a strange round opening. At that point I suspected maybe this car has something that generates vacuum.....now that you told me, I guess I know why the car can go so fast around the corners. Look here for some photos of the Chaparral 2J : http://www.mulsannescorner.com/chaparral2j.html

Too bad the only picture it has is kinda dark. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-1973-DATSUN-240Z-WITH-CHEVY-350_W0QQitemZ320117647785QQihZ011QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem