SUNNY Z

oh.

I have one of those CV ends I'd let go of if you wanted it - to replace the mangled cup.

Ok, so my car is on ground control coilovers 225F 250R, TTT camber plates, TTT t/c rods, sectioned struts with tokico 5 way adjustable shocks, lowered ~3" and 275-40-17 tires. The ride is VERY stiff, and when you get onto certain cement surfaces, it will almost buck. I've played with the shocks, but found that they're the best in the middle, with both the 1 and 5 settings being more harsh. ? I'm just curious if this is just the way the car is going to be, or if there is something I can do (pseudo easy) to make it ride better. Thanks

I think torque and 2nd gear launches killed your stock clutch

The true test of disengagement should be this: Put the car on the ground, then start it in first gear with the clutch pedal pressed. Rev the engine to 4-5K, and if the car doesn't move, you're in good shape. I found that my clutch was a litlle more friendly to drive the closer to not being able to disengage that it was (shorter on the pushrod). However, to gain the abilitly to shift at high rpm's, you have to lengthen the pushrod to facilitate more separation between the clutch/fw/pp assy. . And yes on the hole for the clevis pin. I took my pedal assy out, and welded the holes shut on both that and the brake pedal, then re-drilled them where they should have been. Takes some of the "no pedal at the top" feel out of them. I would also strongly suggest taking some material out of the "pedal box" ... if that's what its called... so you can adjust the MC easily. I can take a pic of this if you'd like.

The true test of disengagement should be this: Put the car on the ground, then start it in first gear with the clutch pedal pressed. Rev the engine to 4-5K, and if the car doesn't move, you're in good shape. I found that my clutch was a litlle more friendly to drive the closer to not being able to disengage that it was (shorter on the pushrod). However, to gain the abilitly to shift at high rpm's, you have to lengthen the pushrod to facilitate more separation between the clutch/fw/pp assy. . And yes on the hole for the clevis pin. I took my pedal assy out, and welded the holes shut on both that and the brake pedal, then re-drilled them where they should have been. Takes some of the "no pedal at the top" feel out of them. I would also strongly suggest taking some material out of the "pedal box" ... if that's what its called... so you can adjust the MC easily. I can take a pic of this if you'd like.

LMAO the track shape on your air dam made me think of this: Enjoy.

Neither do I, thats why I was giving him rib shots. SRSLY though, car looks good.

16. Yeah.I did those passes in about 3-4 sessions.

You couldn't stretch anything smaller?

I stage, and then put the car in gear, and bring the clutch to right where it starts to engage, and when the tree turns, I release the clutch very quickly - not just a dump. I'd say aim for 1 sec until full engagement. Thats where I'm at right now, but it definitely has room for improvement.

If you want t56 info, its more than plentiful on the interwebs. What engine are you planning on putting it behind should be the first question to ask?

1320 has all my passes on video, but he has a lot of other stuff to get done first lol. It was doing consistent 1.61-1.65 , and yes, it would just blow the tires off above that. However, it might be a completely different story with a better prepped track. The track manager wasn't there, so they didnt prep it, BUT I didn't get the boot for no cage - which i would have- had he been there. So it all worked out i suppose.

Yes, that was on the slicks. MPH was 98.xx on the 7.11 pass, but I did a best of 99.93 It dances pretty good on the "big" end. Yep, started in first, and I was launching around 3500-4500, depending on the pass, and able to stay in 3rd. I would definitely go with the 3.54, and less gear and it would be a dog out of the hole.

Best pass from friday: Track was OK, not good not terrible. With good prep, I don't see 1.5x 60' being a problem. I don't personally have the video, but my friend at 1320 came, and video'd about 12 ish passes, so I'm sure that will be good once he gets to it. Until then, you can watch us race in mexico in the other video thread that I started.

Well this has been covered greatly in the drivetrain section, under the M2 shaft thread that I started, but..... Yes, 15" is the correct length for MY car. To get that measurement, used the axles that I had (one stock and one M2), and added "x" to that known measurement to get the tolerances right. As-is, I have about 1/4" of space at full compression to get them in. My axles are longest when the rear is unloaded, so thats where I measured.

From yesterday

Yep, they're in and working great. I took it to the track on friday, and made 16 1/8 mile passes. No issues whatsoever. They started life as Z31 300ZX Turbo half shafts. I Had them do: -new 300M bars(stronger than 4140)- 36 spline - to my length specs -new 4140 chrome moly 36 spline cages -new ball bearings -new boots -cleaning -powdercoating -assembly My lengths measured out to be 15" for the bars on both sides. Internals are (now) what they call a "166" series cv joint

Not yet. I have an opportunity to take it to the 1/8 today actually. However, its a 2 hour drive each way, and I can only be there a max of 2 hours, because I get to come back to work at 11PM! Everything is ready, so I might just take it, as it will be 2 weeks before I can take it again, at a bare minimum. I just don't want to drive 4 hours to make 2 passes (probably going to get the boot for no cage)..... And if you don't plan on ever doing any corner carving, DEFINITELY go solid axle. IRS stuff is expensive for one, you're SUPER limited with gear ratios and posi units for two, and this one-off business is a PITA, and even MORE expensive. I could have a fab 9", installed for what I have in my junk - and I have a welded diff!

I paid $150 for the axles, had them shipped direct to DSS. I then paid the DSS $600, which included: -new 300M bars(stronger than 4140)- 36 spline - to my length specs -new 4140 chrome moly 36 spline cages -new ball bearings -new boots -cleaning -powdercoating -assembly + $40 for boxing and shipping. I thought it was very reasonable, considering they are almost 100% new, and with an outstanding warranty (full refund if broken).

The rear gear is just a 3.54 - R200. I don't think there is a "part number" for these axles. I just called them up, told them what I wanted, sent them a pair of axles which they rebuilt to length, and they showed up on my steps like you see above. Call the DSS, and ask for Frank. He's who hooked me up.

FWIW, I've seen where someone basically cut the flanges off, took a pie section out, and welded them back, so they hugged the block better.

Bah I'm just givin you hell

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion I suppose, but if my clutch doesnt chatter at over 8K miles, I don't see it magically happening one day.