SUNNY Z

LOL yeah that was an afterthought. Its two wires and an LED to do it though. Probably put it in the middle of the two.

Ever since I swapped to autometer gauges, I had no turn signal indicators. This is a quick, CHEAP, and easy way to get some. I took the piece off the top of the column, after I marked it with a sharpie where I wanted the LED's. Then I drilled out the holes, and used a plastic weld 2 part epoxy to mount the LED's flush with the surface. You need to use a resistor on the + side of the LED, i believe i used 1/2 w 1K Ohm Next I soldered wires onto the contacts of the switch Topped it off with spade connectors (idiot proof) . (I later insulated over the spades) and the finished product. IDK what happened when i uploaded the vid from my phone, but you get the idea.

As always, superb customer service.

Sending you a PM

Well if they'll fit over 240sx rear brakes, I might be finding out

hmmm. Im pondering picking up a pair of these to put my slicks on for the strip. What does a 9" wheel weigh?

What do those wheels weigh, any idea?

In for the video

Boom. And who said you'll never use that geometry class?

Well the guy selling the seats was nice enough to give me (yes give me) one of the seats for test fitting before I buy them. I LOVE the midwest - people are the best here. Anyway, the seats are too wide. If I cut / hammered the tunnel (where the cat used to be?) then they would work no problem. Also, they are the GT style (wider) which i concluded is too wide for my waist. Thats all for now, just adding to the knowledge pool.

I bet you dollars to donuts its just whiny. Mine does this too. whisper quiet under load, then when you take the load off it, it whines. the solution: KEEP YOUR FOOT IN IT

Its a bushing, not a bearing. Sounds like it could have some wear. Bushing is like a $3 part. You will likely have to pull the trans, and take the tail shaft housing to a tranny or machine shop to have it installed. I can't imagine it would be more than $30 to have them do it? IDK, I always do it myself.

Keith, first off, quit that notion of putting an LT1 t56 in..... its not really an option, and if it was, it would be uber expensive. The slave cylinder / TOB is the same across the board. I ordered one from GM, one from Tick Performance, and one from napa. The napa and GM ones had the identical part numbers.......... , and the one from tick was a carbon copy. There are literally THOUSANDS of these on the road, with no issues. I would replace the one you have (i know the napa one carries a year warranty - I should "break" mine once a year lol) You need to start talking with people that actually race t56 cars. Start with Tick Performance - best customer service and knowledge of t56s that I've ever talked to. Go to LS1tech, and look in / post in the manual trans section. Some of the worlds fastest t56 cars live there, and the people that build them.

Thats a GREAT place to look. I had a nasty vibration that I tracked down to be the output shaft bushing. Its the little babbit bushing that supports the slip yoke in the tailshaft of the transmission. I also had a rather disheartening vibration around 100mph. Once I switched to CV axles and got rid of those U-joint junks of junk, it feels 10x more stable in the triple digits.

This whole site is a good read. However, this particular section pertains here. http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

LOVE the color... and wheels.... and powerplant. LoL. I think the rears should tuck just fine if you add a degree or 2 of camber, and lower it.

Ok. I'll have to see if i can pick some 10" wheels with a 5.5" backspacing up.

You just need to fix what you have. Don't even think about switching trannies. haha Go post up on LS1tech in the manual trans section, or at least search over there. 4th gen F-bodies are extremely problematic with stock hydraulics - they have the exact symptoms that your car does. Pedal sticking, missing gears, hard to get into gear. Generally the fix is a new upgraded master cylinder. They usually go to a tilton unit, which has a billet mount built by tick performance. Those guys know 6 speeds, and are great to talk to. I wouldn't hesitate to call them for anything - super knowledgeable.

Ok, so stony, answer me this; would I be able to use a 5.5" BS with stock LCA's? No one local has any damn 4 lug stuff or i'd test fit it!

Have you checked the adjustment of your master cylinder? I'm about to change mine a little. It refused a 1-2 no lift at 7K - which should have been gravy. Generally, the pushrod will need to be lengthened in this event. ^^^^ In order to facilitate more separation

Yeah, I didn't get the first batch run.

Better to find out about it on the internet than when you're changing CV boots ask me how I know

Fact. The mustang is 4 on 4.25. Our cars are 4 on 4.5 or 114.

Well my fluid turned really dark... and I had a leak in the system. It was where that fitting is roll-pin captivated into the slave cylinder. The hole had egged out just enough so the fitting could tilt 15 degrees or so, and caused it to leak / contaminate the system. Who knows how some of this stuff happens... boggles my mind.

THATS WHAT I THOUGHT But when I asked, I was told they were I dont build these things, so what do I know.