SUNNY Z

Monster Stage 3 Not 100% sure what you're asking, so here's a link.

Lol please get it on video. Could work great... or not, time will tell! I do what I can! I'm trying to decide what to do now that the z31 parts are breaking.... 8.8 IRS?

All those runs were on the foot brake. I had some issues on friday, so half the passes were with the line lock, the other half not. As front biased as my brakes are, I have NO problem doing brake stands. I heel-toe the brake gas and use my left for the clutch. Here's the clutch switch setup - I wasnt kidding about simplicity. The line lock is completely independent. I have an "arm" switch with an LED on it, and then a big momentary right beside it, in the ash tray location. Once I got the 2 step adjusted correctly, it worked great.

So if you've been following, my car is hard on rear end parts (LS1 - 6 speed - slicks). I just broke an input shaft to the diff, and I don't plan on changing how I drive the car - so don't even suggest that. I'm curious if an R230 is even beefy enough? I've seen a handfull of LS1 240sx guys making a little more power than me, but having the same issues with an R230 axle. I'm leaning more toward a ford 8.8" IRS from a cobra/t-bird/explorer pumpkin due to the vast availability of gear ratios and LSD's. I know there's been threads started on this before, but no one seems to ever follow through, so theres no info!!! I'm going to try to source one locally and start experimenting this winter I think.

This would be useful information to know: http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1030815-does-your-clutch-setup-need-shim.html

Yeah. I just love the handling with an IRS. I'd LOVE to get in some curves with this. however, this year is mostly over for the drivers in my climate. winter is fast approaching.

CV was fine. Just the input shaft for the diff. The turbo ls1 S13/14 guys always break these. ... I just don't know whats the next step

Haha sorry. We didn't get back from the track till almost 3 AM, so i slept kinda late. Yep, and the other half of the broken axle is still in the hole, so no worries there. I had the tires at 14# cold. I have to give a HUGE shout out to my buddy Kyle at 1320video. He put together this video (from two weeks ago). If you dont know who 1320 is, GET WITH THE PROGRAM.

I was referring to the PCM with that statement btw.

Well it was a bittersweet night at the track. I only got three runs in. However, I set a new personal best. 7.46 @ ~ 99 7.08 @ 99.8 7.06 @ ? printer was broken 6.9x @ BROKEN - this was going to be a gooooood pass. heres the 7.08 pass Next pass I got the two step working, and the track was holding good. SO i decided to set it at 4500 and let it eat. POW! ... It hooked. All in all a great night (other than breaking). This cheated me out of $100 running in the heads up street car class later in the night, but oh well! I just pulled it, and drove it 1.5 hours back! No issues. Gonna go get the other chunk out of the diff today lol.

You're lucky i've been spending a lot of time on the forums lately. This is what you're looking for:

It is quite possibly the world's simplest bracket. I'll post them up sometime this weekend when I get a chance. I just adapted an off the shelf push button starter from NAPA, and a 6" piece of 1/8"x1" strap steel.

275 40 17. Rota RB-R wheel, 17x9.5 -19 offset IIRC. Also running 4 degrees caster

99 or 2000. I'm almost 100% sure.

Thats a ford 8.8. There are a ton of photos of his photobucket. IIRC, its "iamjustinsane".

What casting number are the heads? IIRC the 99-01's had 799 heads, and the 01-02's had 241 heads - there might have been some other castings in there as well. They all had red / blue connectors. The main difference is the PCM. The 97-98 PCM's are the redheaded step child of the lsx family. There are major benefits from going to a 99+. Another way to tell is by looking at the coolant temp sensor in the front area of the drivers side head. Being that its a 2 pin, that means its definitely not out of a 98 car. The 98's have a 3 pin sensor. HOWEVER, this 3 pin sensor is handy, as thats what you can use to run a temp gauge off of. I don't have a part # off hand, but its what i'm using. Works well.

That motor isn't a 98, its a 99+. All 97-98's had perimeter bolt valve covers. It also appears to have an LS6 intake on it? (if there is no EGR port hole directly behing the throttle body on top, its an LS6) - which would make me think its a 2001-2002, unless someone swapped intakes. Another thing, the wiring is slightly different from 99 and up - You might want to make sure that speartech isn't building you a 98 harness. Also, not that its likely a concern to you... but; the NHRA won't let you run your fuel lines in the trans tunnel. Not that you probably intend on racing it. However, I just like to air on the side of caution in the event that you have a driveshaft failure. And ONE more thing. the walbro pumps are a pusher, not a puller style pump. You'll have better luck mounting the pump as low or lower than the tank outlet. Might work for you, or it might cavitate and cause issues I would also STRONGLY recommend putting in a fuel shut-off valve, so you can pull the tank, or change filters without fuel gushing everywhere. I wish i'd done it. Looking good. You'll enjoy it..... trust me.

Got a few things done on the car tonight. Heater plumbed. YAY Line lock installed Clutch switch / MSD 2 step installed hitting up the local 1/8 mile track tomorrow. I"ll try to get some good video!

The DSS is also capable of making porshe-style cv's, upon request, for about the same price. You'd have to call for the specifics. However, if you're like me, less hardware is better. The quality is truly top-notch also.

I don't think its bottoming out, as my bump stops haven't kissed the gland nut (that I'm aware of)

Say goodbye to traction!

You should find me one of these clsd units. They are absolutely impossible to find in the midwest. Or online for that matter... under 1K....

Simple test for synchros: With the car running, in neutral, try to put the tranny into each gear without pushing the clutch. If it grinds, then the synchros need replaced. If it just refuses to go into gear, then (in my experience) they are good. In most cases, only the 3-4 shift fork will bend. You also need to remember that this trans came out of a car that was quite heavy, and if it was driven hard, its very possible it was damaged.

Where in the rpm /mph range is your vibration? T56's are notorious for the 5/6 gear vibe. Mine pulses pretty bad in 5/6 around 80, but if you drop it in 4th, it goes away. I thought I had issues with alignment or balance as well at first. If thats the case, then it can be fixed for like $150, if you have the tranny torn down. It has to do with the size of the main shaft where the 5/6 gear is pressed on. I did get rid of a bunch of noise when i went from u-joints to cv shafts, however. Plus I'm not afraid to beat on it now

Hmm. This might have something to do with it. However, I feel that the root cause is somewhere else.