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exactly what j260z mentioned... weld the holes then get it chromed. Btw that's the day I broke my u-joint and cost me almost $90 to fix because the drive shaft was bent from hitting the ground.

Anyone know of a good bumper chroming or chroming shop in Bay Area? Thanks, Ron

Check out the link.... http://www.chefjosh.com/ricerules.shtml

I know it's not a riced out Z but it's so............ You know what I mean

I like the HKS SS. I don't like it to loud. I have the Blitz and it's loud. I have my boost set to only 11psi and my friend who was ridding in a Durango sitting in the back seat, heard my blow off when I past him up shifting to 5th gear. I didn't shift into 5th until I was 1 car lenght ahead of the durango. Oh... he can still hear the turbo a car length ahead

Can I put any of the R200 12mm 3.54 ring and pinion gears? I want to swap the 3.7 gears with a 3.54. I'm looking for the most inexpensive route. Thanks in Advance, Ron

"not being able to rev past around 5000 rpms" Sound familiar, try turning off the knock sensor completely.

Nice IC Shane. Like how you routed the piping underneath. Are you planning to put a spoiler and will it fit? Yeah post more pics include the piping

Jason I would call SDS. You have the either the 3D or 3E and not the 3F. The 3F has it's own coil packs. If SDS can't help you then I'm sure they know someone who can. Maybe Stony might know who to send you to. Good Luck.

I got an email from Jerry one day to draw out my Z. When he sent me the drawing I was suprised cool the drawing looks. Thought I share it with you guy's. - Thanks Jerry.

Mike, that's a walbro 255 pump right? I can tell becaues I have the same one. I would suggest getting the walbro pump, more powerful then the msd and a lot cheaper. $140 shipped is what they are going for.

Some body please video tape this . If James has more HP I still think Scottie's still going to win. Scottie has more track time with his setup. The question is can James put the power to the ground and if he can, can he do it with out breaking anything like sub axles? Scottie has a Corvette rear end so that's covered. The only weakness I can assume in James car is the rear end. This is a tough call, but I think who ever has more track time with their current setup will win. My $.02

Here's a wiring harness that is so simple that you just put ground, power and connect the socket to your current light socket. Uses your light switch to turn on the relays then powers up the lights from the battery. http://www.hyperlights.com/wiring_harness.htm WK-010 is the part number

Bill, when I first saw it I said huh? Then I remember he is using LD28 crank. Well it's sort of true

Mainly for clearance. The T04b housing is machined to fit the .57 trim. You do have a better spoolup but loose on top end. You lose about 5%.

That's incorrect, there are t04b housing with a .57 trim wheel. It's the manufactures that don't make .57 trim in a t04b housing. The graph's are from the manufactures specs not the turbo dealer / shop (turbonetics, majestic, etc..).

RacerX, I'm not BLKMGK but I'd like to put my 2 cent into that question. The SupraTT would be a could be handfull at WOT but as for normal driving it very drivable. Why, because of the turbo. You only have 650 hp when the turbo is making boost. Other wise it's a baby when there negative to 0 boost - very drivable on the rain also. Why would it be a handfull at WOT, on the straight away the car would probably be fine but not on the twisties at high speed. The problem is the Z car was not made to handle at high speeds, not enough down force. It can be done with $$$. As for a V8 I would thinks it's not drivable, well not as drive able as a Z with the Supra engine. Can you imagine all that hp and torque from that V8. You'll need some really fat meats on that Z. If you have a automatic, it will chirp the tires when you put it in gear. Defiantly not drivable in the rain. If the street is wet and you tap the pedal as your leaving from a dead start, you've already broke traction. I would think the same thing would apply on a stick. You feather it was light as you can and when it grabs, chirp. Too much hp and trq for a light car like a Z. You would get a better weight balance on a V8 Z. Again this is my $.02

FYI. The coils are very good on the RB. Have you seen the tuner in AUS. that did the 1000hp skyline. Their Supra project is using the RB coil packs.

I was having similar problems when my wastegate was stuck open. Ron

I have a 280z tach in my 240. When I had my MSD, I plugged in directly to the tach port (what ever ou want to call it ). I also tried connected to the negative side of the coil. Regardless which of the two I plugged it in it worked the fine.

Hey Davy Nice Car, did you put that big turbo in that thing - heh heh I bet he feels dumb after getting comments and realizing he just lying to himself. I bet he gets depress when that happens.

Ok, I'm confused I think just to be safe I'm going to try the distributor solution again. Better to be safe then sorry. Thanks for the input Donna but it looks like I'm going to take the safe route. Well spudz that's interesting, I wonder how many people this happened to???

Thanks everyone for your solutions. I was going to do the distributor solution by cutting at the base but changed my mind after talking to a couple of Datsun / Nissan engine builders including Rebello and Top End. Caping the distributor is ok and not to worry about the play shaft.

Well you got it easy since you have a R200. All you do is change your yolk and if your not going to use the fin diff cover then just use your R200 diff cover (I would use the Finned cover). The finned cover holds more oil and dissipates heat. You'll need a rear brace. You can get the rear brace from Dave V8-240z@juno.com. BTW I just replied to your email

If you currently have a r200 then all you need is to swap the yok(spelling?) The rear diff cover if you don't have the brace from Dave and that's it. Everthing will just bolt into place.