skirkland1980

Did you verify that Q16 is there? Take an ohm meter and ohm pin 7 on the 40 pin cpu socket to the left pin on the bip373. You should have 330 ohms if D14 is your spark output(preferred). You can also ohm the middle pin to the coil neg. and the right pin to ground while you're in there.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94597-megasquirt-280zx/page__p__890582__fromsearch__1#entry890582

oops! just noticed your reference to gm 4 pin hei. I started a thread a few years ago on how to set this up. I'll try to find it.

Is it running yet? Are you using the hei module to run spark? How are you controlling spark advance? Thanks...

Mine needs to 3/4 because of the thickness of the center hub. I ordered a new piece of aluminum in early july and took it to my cnc guy and finally got tired of waiting. I picked up my stuff and bought a giant band saw and borrowed a drill press and built a new one. Here it is. The car should be done very soon now.

Well the offset dowel pins didn't move the transmission up enough so I'll have to get a new adapter plate fabricated. That might take a while since it's kind of expensive to do and I'm low on funds.

I figured out why my flexplate broke. It's because the transmission is slightly off-center. I'll be picking up some offset dowel pins from Summit tomorrow. I also found that there are some differences in flexplate offset so I also returned the summit flexplate for a pioneer flexplate which is a much better fit.

Well I'm upgrading the stall sooner than I thought. My flexplate is broken. I got a 10" converter from summit and I'm returning it because the craftsmanship on this converter is very poor. I'm going to try the hughes. Here is a video of the broken flexplate.

Well I've been trying to decide between 3000 or 4000 stall. Would 4k be too much? It'd be nice to be able to build some boost before launching. With the old trans I was able to build 1psi. Now 0psi. At least with TC lockup I can maintain my fuel economy on the highway.

Yes. It's helpful. I figured I needed more stall than stock I just didn't want to over do it. Thanks _

Here is the adapter for the flywheel

The converter is a b&m part # 70420 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70420/. It has the stock flywheel/flexplate for the L28 then and adapter to bolt a SBC flexplate to that. I drive the car often on the street and drag race occasionally. The engine internals are all stock. The only things I've changed that should effect powerband are the intake and turbo. Boost peaks around 3500rpm. Thanks for the help.

I just learned of a ceramic coating called cerakote. It appears to be for firearms but I was watching a technical video on YouTube and they were coating a header. Has anyone tried this before? What were your results? Thanks

I had a similar problem with vht in the burnout box. I sheared the wheel studs on the right wheel. Drag tires don't really need much heat to stick. I don't burnout anymore.

Hello. I just finished installing a 700r4 in my 1983 280zx turbo. I went with a 2000rpm stall converter. It feels sluggish now. I know the 700r4 is about twice the weight as the jatco L3n71b that was in there. My question is, would more stall help. Anyone running a similar setup? I'm estimating about 300hp at the flywheel(s)(it has 2 flywheels now lol) The engine has a custom intake with a t3t4 turbo and .82 hot side.

I use the copper spray sealant on my copper SBC headgaskets.

I have this one. http://www.instrumart.com/products/10108/raytek-minitemp-mt6-infrared-thermometer looks likes its going for $57. Cool info on using a thermal camera. You should be able to see a cold spot in a radiator for sure.

good info. They have dropped in price since I bought mine about 5 years ago.

my car is an S130. if this upgrade isn't for S130s it needs to be mentioned in the original post. I guess I'm taking these parts back

If your engine is overheating here is what to do. First make sure the coolant system is full and no more antifreeze than 50%(ethylene glycol). The best way I've found to fill, and make sure there are no air pockets in the system are to use a vacuum venturi coolant refill tool. They are about $200 but worth it if you make a living fixing cars, as i do. You will also need an infrared thermometer (about$90) or borrow one. Get the engine up to operating temp. If the car has a 190 degree thermostat the engine needs to be at least 190 degrees. If you have removed the thermostat replace it. Get a good quality one. Now that the engine is hot turn it off and take the infrared thermometer and scan the entire cooling system from the thermostat housing to the water pump inlet. The thermostat housing and upper radiator hose should be at least 190. If not here is no coolant circulating. Check the water pump and thermostat. Scan the radiator core at all 4 corners and center. Look for a temp drop of 15 degrees or more. If the radiator doesn't have have a consistent temperature replace it. If everything else checks ok it is likely an airflow problem. Make sure the radiator is getting fresh air and the fan(s) is working. If you suspect a blown head gasket or cracked head make a trip to Napa and get a block tester kit. They are about $43. It uses a blue fluid. If the fluid changes to green you likely have a blown head gasket, just follow the instructions in the kit. Hope this helps.

sorry for the small pic. the only camera i have is my cell phone.

here is a pic. its got to be right

the backing plate isn't in my way. the caliper does not fit over the rotor nor does it bolt to the spindle.

Ok. I just spent $180 to upgrade my stock brakes to the toyota 4x4 front calipers. They do not fit in any way, shape or form. The original post says nothing about this.

I am having a similar problem. Can you explain "manifolded balance tube" please...Thanks