skirkland1980

megasquirt tuning

I've had a hard time finding a conversion table that is accurate to MS. I set up a vacuum/pressure pump and a gauge and read map through MS. Here are my results ranging from 20" to 10psi. My elevation is about 800ft above sea level PSI/inHg KPa 10psi=172kpa 9=163 8=155 7=147 6=140 5=131 4=125 3=117 2=109 1=103 0=97.9 1inHg=94 2"=92 3"=88 4"=85 5"=82 6"=78 7"=73 8"=71 9"=67 10"=63 11"=60 12"=56 13"=52 14"=49 15"=45 16"=42 17"=38 18"=35 19"=30 20"=25

It's a little hard to see but it's mounted at about a 45 degree angle. wow what a tiny pic! how do I make it smaller?

Napa sells a kit called a block tester. It uses some kind of blue fluid. You pour a little into the tube thingy and put the tube thingy where your radiator cap goes, if the fluid changes to yellow you have a blown headgasket for sure. Not sure what they charge for that kit. Sorry for my 1st grade grammar but I don't know the exact name for that stuff. ok the part number is BK 7001006 it's $42.99. It comes with enough fluid to check dozens of cars.

you can see mine in my video i got the relay kits from a International Truck dealer @ $17 each. I needed a special crimper to crimp the terminals. I did my own because I needed more than 3 relays.

Hey Matt, why does my engine idle better when percent tps control is set to 0%? Also...off topic how do I make my fuel map bigger so I can adjust fuel while in boost?

so the photo is about right then?

yes thank you

Hey! I've only had my Z for a little over a year now. The mods started when one day my car wouldn't. So I purchased a simple megasquirt I v2.2 and finally got it running ok after a few months of tinkering and installed a Saab intercooler. I blew the hg and got to tear into the engine for the first time. I did the 240sx tb mod at that time. It ran good for a little while, upgraded to ford 440cc cfi injectors and turned up the boost a little and broke a ring land (same day). Then I was able to rebuild the whole engine (took me all winter) which had almost no wear inside but I did upgrade to arp rod bolts and resized the rods. So the engine got new pistons,rings, bearings, and gaskets/seals. I also port matched the exhaust manifold to the turbo. I bought a turbo off craigslist (T3/T4 .82ar exh housing), rebuilt it myself and it lasted a day, then spent $500 and had it rebuilt OUCH! (single largest expense to date) I did many other mods over the winter which are listed in my sig. Before the turbo upgrade it ran a 9.50 @ 73mph in the 1/8 @ 12psi. With the new turbo it builds boost a little later but still pulls harder before boost. (don't have a functioning tach)

"those runners appear at least 1/4" bigger in diameter

This thread is kinda old but here is some experiences I've had. I had a similar problem which was fixed by increasing the injector currents. Also don't overlook cracked coils or wires. I don't know what type of trigger your using for MS but make sure the sensor is positioned properly and not loose. Also make sure the CAS wires are shielded/twisted and away from the ignition system. good luck!

The one I fabbed for my car is very similar but I angled the wastegate pipe/mount outward to help prevent possible boost creep. Works great!

I like garrett's intake. You need tapered runners to help airflow. The intake for sale on ebay doesn't appear to have tapered runners and doesn't look like it would be any better than stock, if not worse.

Thanks. I'm doing this upgrade for my MS eventually and am a little confused on where the gap goes. DIY says 6 teeth ahead of the sensor, but does that mean 6 teeth before TDC?

Is that the correct location for the missing tooth @TDC or is this mockup?

Sorry to hear your having so much trouble. I visited your thread because I am interested in converting mine to a crank trigger setup. Also good luck with your Innovate LC-1. My first one was bad out of the box. Summit replaced it, the next one lasted a month, then I swapped it with an Autometer unit and I love it!

I also learned that the trigger offset has to be a positive number and should be less than 20 degrees. If not you'll have to adjust the sensor.

I made this handy tool for holding the chain and tensioner on an L6. Not only does it keep the tensioner from falling out but will keep the chain on the crank sprocket and it works great. Feel free to copy it for yourself. It's just made of some nuts, bolts, and threaded rod. Tools I used; just a mig and bench grinder.

Contact motorman, But ask them to ship UPS

the fuel map doesn't have much effect on how the engine runs. i would start out at 80 at the bottom left and work up to 100 to about 5000rpm

inj open time 1.0ms, batt V correction .20, PWM current limit 60%, PWM time threshold 12, required fuel 12.6 with 1 squirt. it will calculate required fuel when you provide displacement, # of cyl, injector flow rate, and desired afr.

is it safe to say that a na engine needs .5 lbs of fuel per hour and a turbo engine needs .7 lbs per hour? also i know that an electric fuel pump needs to be as close to the tank as possible with a large I.D supply line.

do you have the stim and tuner studio or megatune also?

Do you already have the MSII? I'm selling my MSI v2.2. unless you'd like to assemble your own. I will work great on your na engine.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94597-megasquirt-280zx/page__p__890582#entry890582