skirkland1980

I'm using the Summit twist-tite hose from the tank to the engine. It's nhra approved and I've been running it for a year now.

I like the ms2 v 3.0. You can get it assembled or not. You will likely need the stim and will need a harness. You will need a serial/usb com cable, about $50 at radio shack and laptop. Sounds like you may have just enough money to do it depending on what you have already.

When I get to work monday I'll try to make s video of the problem if there's time.

Yes. Timing is very steady. I welded all of the advance mechanisms in the distributor.

I'm running 0.032" on a sbc race engine. The only time I've heard of needing more than that was possibly with aluminum connecting rods. You also need to check how high each side of the piston top rocks out of the bore (with a dial indicator) and divide by 2.

The timing stays steady after I try to change it with trigger wizard. When I adjust with the wizard I get 0* or 30*.

I set it fixed timing, and try to adjust with the trigger wizard. The timing will adjust but not to what I'm trying to set it to. It jumps to either 0* or 30*. Then I set it to use table and the timing won't move when I rev the engine.

I have good news and bad news. I drove the car to work this morning from Stockbridge to Macon(65 miles). The car ran good, no more overheated bip373. The bad news is, I reflashed to 3.2.4 and retuned and the ignition map still has no effect.

Some of you may know that I have a shop in Macon Georgia at 710 2nd street downtown. I am offering Megasquirt installs for a fair price. I will only install preassembled units from Diyautotune in Suwanee, GA. You supply all parts. I can offer basic installs which includes a rough tune to get the car running. I can also include a dyno tune for additional cost. Pm me for details. Thanks.

Ok. It may be this weekend but I will update when done. Thanks

Running ms 2 v 3.57 on 1983 280zx L28E. It has the stock vr distributor with a single coil. Has low impedance 440cc injectors (2.0 ohms each). All ms grounds to the battery negative, sensors ground to the intake manifold. I have a toggle switch to the battery to power ms. Everything is fused and relayed. I'm not having much problem anymore with the box getting hot and the engine misfiring that I've noticed. The main problem I'm concerned with now is ms isn't following the spark table. IGN is soldered to pin 7 of the 40 pin dip socket to a 330 ohm resistor to the bip373. Thanks 2012-12-22_14.52.45.zip amanda 2012-09-06_19.13.10.zip

I'm going to start a new thread.

Ok. I wish I could hear the noise via video or something. Please let us know what you find.

I'm running .032" clearance on a race engine so I don't think .027" would hit at idle unless there is a lot of clearance in the rod bearings. Maybe something is lodged on top of the piston.

I had a lash cap come off once...

Static electricity could be the cause. Is the box mounted near any speakers? Not sure if the magnet could cause your problem.

I also don't understand what the fuss is about turbo engines and valve overlap. Do folks actually think that the boost pressure would rather blow out into a pressurized exhaust manifold rather than fill the space as the piston is moving down? Sounds a lot like a tuned exhaust pipe on a 2 stroke engine.

Can you post a picture? Maybe someone could identify it. The 4 and 5 speeds look very similar. The T5 looks very different.

I have questions about the FAQ about cylinder head cooling on #5 and also a simple camshaft question. The first question is: Which heads have the casting flash in the coolant passage? Do I just remove the pipe plugs in the top of the head and drill a few holes in it? And once I've done that I can drill and tap holes above #5 & 6 and run a hose to the bottom of the t-stat housing, correct? If my head doesn't have steel valve seats at what point should I consider them? I'm considering building a L28ET race engine soon. The simple cam question: So Z cars basically had two cams right? I know there are internal oiled and spray bar oiled but had about the same profile. Then you have the hydraulic cam from the 280zx turbo which has the smallest profile. If I wanted to upgrade my cam wouldn't the cheapest upgrade be to get a cam from a P79 head and install it in my P90a and keep the hydraulic lifters? If I changed the cam and converted to solid lifters wouldn't I essentially have the same lift/duration as before?

Also try this. http://www.xenons130.com/Transmissions.html

I don't know. Automatics you have 3N71B and L3N71B. Manual you have the borg warner T5 and fw471b.

I just ran a new power wire to MS from the battery to a toggle switch to an inline fuse then to MS. I also ohmed the injectors and have 2.0 ohms on all six.

Picture attached

I'm about 99% sure they are low impedance. I will get a picture and check the injectors with a DVOM when I get home this evening. Thanks again.

Possibly needs a different dwell setting but not adjustable on stock ignition to my knowledge.