nienberg.11

I daily drive my original motor turbo'd with no problems. It's got the n47, but on an l28 with dished pistons it yeilds the same 8.3:1 compression ratio as the n42. The improved off-boost response makes it a blast to drive.

You definitely don't want to install a more restrictive outlet. That won't solve anything, unless this larger outlet is not fitting properly and is keeping the seals from functioning. I can't picture it so I don't know if that's a possibility, but more exhaust gas restriction is NOT the answer.

He played Satan in Constantine, too.

Guys, thanks for all the input. I totally agree with all of you that it would be better for me to have turbo bolts or studs, but you have to keep in mind that this is an n/a block and any detonation is going to shatter my ring lands or piston skirts long before my head bolts get dislodged from what I've heard. If I could get my hands on some, I'd put them in the next time (hopefully there isn't a next time) that my head is off, but this is just a daily driven, slightly powerful car. As long as it gets me across town and doesn't leak or use any fluids, that's good enough. I'm not going to race it or set any new HP records.

sounds like you have your bases covered aside from that damper. Good luck getting her running.

No problem. If I were you I would check that and any filters for restrictions.

Rust can plug up about anything. Like I said, I removed mine when I put in an aftermarket pump and my fuel pressure is rock solid.

Correction, it is a fuel damper used to even out fluctuations in fuel pressure.

The pic is kinda blurry, but I'd say it's a strainer. I don't run mine anymore and it didn't affect anything. I do have another filter in front of the pump, though.

The n/a head bolts are some of the few truly high quality fasteners on the car from what I've experienced. I don't want to torque them beyond 65 ft/lbs, so I'll probably stay with them. If I ever see an old Z in an Ohio jy, I'll look for some spare bolts, but it's not likely to happen here in the rust belt. Out of curiousity though, what advantage does the groove in the top of the turbo bolts offer?

I used a beck-arnley (stock replacement) gasket with no sealer. Neither the manual or the gasket manufacterer recommended the use of a sealer. The bolts were in fine shape and I torqued them 3 lbs over specs to 65 ft/lbs since the car is now turbo'd.

I followed the tolerances listed in the repair manual. I don't recall the exact number off hand, but it was within the range you said. Since the swap I've driven ~1000 mi. with the steam cleared up and no new issues.

I didn't mention that since this has been discussed plenty of times, but it's a good point to bring up. Indeed I did put a straight edge to the head according to the method shown in the Chilton manual and it was within specs.

Good deal. Let us know how it works out.

A few months ago I started to notice some steam at idle, and quickly came to the conclusion that my head gasket had failed. I was right. Since this is a well-covered topic, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking for me, but it should be noted that the head gasket was completely intact and had seemingly just rotted to the extent that water was getting past it. Below I've marked the narrow area between cyl 6 and the water jacket where I believe the water was seeping through. Here is the head before any cleaning. 2 hours of scraping and emory-papering later, here's the result. I did the same to the block, of course, but didn't take pictures of that.

Dan, I have a thread all about my setup. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105932 Photobucket resized the engine bay pics in that thread but here are links to some more recent ones from before I took the head off. http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c123/strictlydatsun/DSC08366.jpg http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c123/strictlydatsun/DSC08367.jpg Btw Dan, if Frankie set you up with an Xspower turbo like what auxiliary is showing, you'll want to do something about that. It won't last. He tried giving me one but I insited on a Garrett and he got me one.

Mtcookson, I just realized that your driveway must be incredibly cramped

For now, yes. I have a nice ebay bar and plate IC but I'm having the mounts and portions of the piping professionally made once I have a little more cash.

LOL, owned.

My turbo's bigger than your turbo!

Check your fuses and otherwise, do a search on here.

Dr. J, it's great to see another s30 in Columbus. I'd have to agree that you likely have a head gasket issue. Mine did pretty much the same and the gasket was still intact. I chalk it up to the gasket simply getting old and rotten. After I replaced it and re-torqued the head it's been fine and I daily drive it now. Anyways, if you ever want any help from someone with some experience on these cars, let me know. I'm always up for wrenching on an old Z. -Mike

Yet another possibilty is that there is a bad connection at the back of the bulb and/or bad connections in the harness leading to that light. I had all of the above and had to replace the sockets on the bulbs and install relays.

Did it leave water droplets behind as you cut like in the video?

Go for it! That's something I'd like to see.