nienberg.11

The site I was reading said e85 is 110 octane.

I'm not familiar with the term "marcel."

Thanks for the tip... notice that in my next post I stated the stoich afr of e85. I had already run my own search and found a much more informative site than the one originally linked. I was not aware however, that running straight alcohol involved the same requirements as running e85. In my reading I found that ethanol, especially when contaminated with more than 1% water, will separate out from the gasoline and form a compound that is corrosive to aluminum and magnesium. Same thing for older gas tanks with a certain tin content as well as rubber fuel lines.

A stoich AFR for E85 is around 9.7:1, versus 14.x:1 for gasoline. This could easily be compensated for with the use of aftermarket EFI. What I worry about is would the E85 dissolve my gas tank or its seals? What about damage to fuel lines and exposed aluminum cylinder walls?

That site was pretty vague. I watched a program on the History Channel about how Brazil already has straight ethanol at all of their gas stations, which they produce from their sugar crops. It's half the price of unleaded there. Anyways, they said that the flex-fuel ecu's use O2 sensors to determine the percentage of ethanol and gas, and adjust fuel and timing settings in real time. I don't see why a Z with Megasquirt or any other aftermarket efi couldn't also be adjusted to run properly on E85. As long as it was run solely on E85 or unleaded and not on in-between mixtures of the two, a separate map could be created for each. Does anyone know what kind of octane #'s E85 has?

Anybody have or know of something that will hold over 300hp and 2xx ft/lbs torque for the 225 mm flywheel?

A smaller carbon canister is a good idea. I may have to look for one on my next trip to the jy.

Tony, I'm in total agreement with you on the need to keep emissions down. Do you happen to know if it would work to run the vent line straight to the manifold with a check valve in that, or is the charcoal a necessary ingredient?

Mine's not that severe, but it hasn't been so easy to deal with since the stock vent line is open to the atmosphere and pressure is still building in the tank. I tried to clear the line by unscrewing the gas cap and blowing compressed air into it, but that didn't work.

I get full boost (8psi) by 3000 rpm in every gear, including first.

Or make your life a lot easier and get one high quality pump.

I'm looking into buying a small check valve to weld or tap into the gas cap to release this pressure (this idea might have been mentioned earlier in this thread). I'm worried that there might be effects on the car's performance or gas mileage from the pressure buildup.

My clutch is slipping now that I'm turbo'd. I was looking at spec clutches until I read this, but I'd rather not lose a foot from flying schrapnel. I went to ACT's site and they didn't show anything for a '77 280z. I have the 225 mm flywheel and would like to keep it. Anybody have any suggestions?

The cold start injector is also disconnected.

My aftermarket pump always got louder when it was straining to pump enough fuel (ie. when there was a clogged filter in the line before it). This could be seen as well, in the form of a slight wobble in my fuel pressure needle. You might look into getting a fuel pressure guage.

I'm having a similar problem and my air reglator is disconnected. The car idles ~2000rpm when cold and after a few minutes of driving settles to anywhere from 1000 to 1300 rpm. If I turn down the idle speed the car will come close to stalling out when the throttle is closed suddenly. I chalk that up to crappy engine management (MSNSE is already partly built), but can't see why the idle would change so dramatically.

You'e a very articulate drunk.

SS autochrome external wg here. Sounds nice and works fine.

Well Jmortensen, I already ordered the Beck/Arnley gasket by the time I saw your post. I don't know what to think anymore... My friend Frankie from Z Performance Racing claimed that he uses nothing but Felpro head gaskets in all his high powered Z's and actually said that they're the best in his opinion when I spoke with him earlier.

Well, the car has been smoking (steaming?) at idle for a couple days. Now I'm getting all kinds of bubbles in my coolant and losing a lot of coolant. I'm pretty sure the head gasket is blown and I need to replace it asap. At Advance Auto Parts and AutoZone, the only gaskets available are Felpro and Beck/Arnley. I have heard mostly bad things about Felpro gaskets, but nothing about the other brand. Can any of you tell me if Beck/Arnley is a decent brand to get? Also, any tips for the head gasket replacement procedure are welcome.

I believe the stock turbine a/r for the t3 is .63. Thats great that you were able to get those exhaust bolts loose, zeiss. I took my t3 apart and even when using a whole lot of squirrel piss (aka parts blaster) and heating the bolts up with a torch, every single one of them broke off. I think the ohio climate and the salt on the roads is to blame for my constant fastener woes, however.

Glad to hear you got it worked out.

Listen to Jmortensen. Your engine cannot be revving that high without a lot of manifold pressure. That has nothing to do with the ignition timing, fuel pressure, or your float chamber, except that when the timing is retarded far enough, the engine slows down in spite of the high manifold pressure. You could have a stuck throttle / something stuck open inside of your carbs, not restricting airflow at idle like it should be, as mentioned before. Track down this issue before worrying anymore about the timing.