nienberg.11

Haha yeah.. there's always that one cyl that has to give you problems. For me it's cyl #1. It has fuel and spark but it's always sort of a mystery as to whether it's really running or not... until I hairdry the s.o.b.

Ok that makes it a bit clearer. The hot setup would be to take a spare rearview mirror stem, cut the mirror balljoint off and weld on a cam mount. Those stems just snap in and out so it would be easily interchangeable and real solid. I might actually do that. I overlubed my mirror ball joint and have little choice but to get a new mirror since mine won't stay in place now.

IC. I just have a tiny little sony cybershot to work with so I'll have to figure something out on my own most likely. Anyways, it looks like you're making quick progress on the thing. Keep up the good work.

It's got a nice sound to it. How did you mount the cam? My car makes some interesting noises that people need to hear...

We're waiting...

There is a seperate flasher unit for the turn signals and for hazards. They're near each other under the left side of the dash, next to the kick panel. IIRC they are silver cylindrical things.

Might want to read the one I started... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110447

Every last turn signal issue I've ever had stemmed back to a bad bulb, bad filament, or loose filament.

Corky Bell described that type of setup in Maximum Boost. From what I gathered, the idea is to have a small turbo staged with a large one to get quick spool as well as big power.

I'm going to run permanent wb o2 with the megasquirt. And as far as the timing light, I don't have one but I have borrowed one in the past to make sure that my initial timing was right at least. For now it's working, but the stock dizzy will never provide the control over my timing that I want, plus I don't like working with antiquated dizzy systems at all if I don't have to (ie 83 dizzy), so I'm just holding off on messing with my timing until the edis is in.

Yeah I know... I have that and some vac advance with my current setup. I would like nothing better than to know my total timing and my AFRs, and just generally have a better picture of what's going on with the car. Hence the fact that I'm building msnse and I already have edis components to use with it. I know my setup sucks, and that's why I don't trust it with any more boost.

False. It says Degrees Farenheit right on it. That brings me to another point, which is that I don't have manifold gauges to do this the right way. I suppose I will just spend the money and have a shop do the filling for me. After reading the Chilton manual and hearing about the possibility of forming a poison gas or having my eyes frozen while working with r12, I'm not too eager to try it here at school where I don't have the right equipment.

I got the Freeze12 kit in the mail today and I have some questions. First, the instructions say that I have to deep-vacuum the system. I'm at school and the only vaccum I have says Hoover on it and definitely doesn't pull the required 29"Hg. What have you all done here? Also, what am I supposed to do with the old refrigerant? The instructions say not to fill it until the sight glass clears, so does that mean that there should still be bubbles visible in it? There is a little pen shaped temperature gauge with the kit that isn't mentioned in the instructions. What do I use that for?

60% of the time, they work every time.

Nah, it's a brass npt valve that's more for industrial applications, which is why it opens hard. The fish tank thing would probably be a better option as long as it will stand up to the underhood environment.

Might as well have. I actually installed a check valve in the line from the manifold to the distributor to make sure that boost didn't hit the dizzy. I was told that this would result in a drastic increase in timing advance. Anyways, the dizzy barely sees any vacuum now because of the tightness of the check valve. I've disconnected the whole thing before and sometimes I question why I ever reconnected it. It makes no noticeable difference.

I disabled the vac. advance on my timing, but I'm only running 8psi. Until I get the megasquirt and edis installed I'm not going to run any more than that.

I'm running an fmu. I worry about my AFRs a lot, smell like gas after each drive, and currently have a partially assembled megasquirt sitting in front of me... Granted, the outlook is a little better if you have a wideband to tune with right from the start, but it's still no substitute for aftermarket efi.

I'll hold off on getting one of those until I have a better idea of how much of a PITA it is to retrofit the valves.

Ed, don't bother checking into that for me. I got it figured out. Sean, I had looked into that kit before, but the one light just went all dim the other day and after getting pulled over for it I decided to do it myself for the sake of timeliness. That was a lot of soldering, splicing, etc (especially since I messed some things up the first time around) and I also had to replace the socket on one of the bulbs because it was so corroded, but it's done now and the lights seem to be brighter. I won't know for sure until I leave work tonight since it was a very sunny day here.

Thanks, and yeah I need the 280 colors.

Ed, I don't suppose you recall what the difference in wire coloration between the 240 and 280 was? I got pulled over for having a headlight out (it was actually on, but so dim as to be useless) so I added relays to the circuit yesterday but my lights aren't coming on. I don't have a multimeter or test light with me here at college so I'm having trouble figuring out where I went wrong.

The injector pigtails are interchangeable. Make sure you have fuel pressure and that the pump is actually running. I rewired my aftermarket pump with a relay referenced off of the fuel gauge power supply, so any time the key is in the "on" position, I've got fuel pump.

Yeah, I'm well aware of the fact that the a/c is only really compressing when that clutch is engaged. The only assumption I'm making is that nothing has gone catastrophically wrong with the compressor within the last week or two. Also, in my first hand experience with a/c compressors tying up on modern cars it makes no difference if you switch them off or not. They're still tied up and you're still S.O.L. if you need your serpentine belt to wrap around them. If you read my earlier posts the system was working until very recently, and now the magnetic clutch you're referring to won't kick on because of the low pressure switch. The freon levels had been on the low side for some time and this wasn't unexpected. I'm confident that with a full charge it will be ok.