nienberg.11

When you put it that way I guess the glass IS half empty lol. I'm going with EDIS at a later time but for now just needed to get my fuel under control.

I made too many dumb mistakes since I'm a first timer, but it could be done with the adaptor I made up. It adapts from the 280z ecu harness, through an old ecu connector, and into the Megasquirt harness. You just plug it in, run the tach signal and MAP signal, and it's good to crank up. One of the main benefits of this setup is that there is zero downtime for the car. At any time I could plug the old ecu in and go, which I had to do to go into town and hunt for a tps. I ran the IAT through unused wires on the original harness to keep the amount of new wiring to a minimum. Here's what it looks like.

Phil, if we're still talking about the thing in the picture, I can 100% guarantee that it's a fuel damper. It's right there in the Chilton manual.

That would make more sense. My bad, Mario.

If you're dramatically shrinking a picture, Photoshop can't be beat for reducing it without causing pixelation. For what you want to do however, use Paint like Zeeboost said. It's free and you already have it on your machine...unless you're one of those Mac guys.

No. Look at the picture and read his description of it. What you are describing is also called a dash-pot and obviously wouldn't be anywhere near the fuel pump. It's a fuel damper.

I don't have my megasquirt installed yet and am really not clear on what's happening to you, but I'll take a stab at it. Could the megasquirt be resetting frequently, thus supplying insufficient fuel for a second and causing a surge? I think there's is a reset counter in megatune.

Datsun installed it in conjunction with the fpr for a reason. If the fuel pressure supplied to the regulator is pulsing, then the pressure yielded by the regulator will fluctuate as well. Picture how the regulator works. It's an adjustable restriction in the return line to the tank, referenced from intake manifold pressure. It won't adjust to fluctuations in the line leading up to it, and so the pressure in the fuel rail will be uneven. After the regulator these fluctuations might be evened out, but by that time the fuel is just returning to the tank. The fuel pressure on the injectors is what counts. That said, with a quality pump and no restrictions leading up to the pump, fuel pressure fluctuations shouldn't be an issue to begin with. I no longer run the damper with my walbro pump and the pressure is perfectly steady. I never tried running the stock pump without it, though.

Which transmission is in the ZX?

Glad to hear you got it working. My idle is all over the place too, and I'm not sure why.

I don't personally have experience with zxt electronics, but could the plug going into the ecu be loose or corroded? A lot of people have complaints about it.

I'd have to agree with low pressure glass-beading being the way to go. I had a tacky looking colored epoxy coating on my wheels and had that sandblasted off, which resulted in the wheels being badly pitted.

Sounds like I gotta find an 82-83 zx 5-spd. I cruise at ~4000rpm on the highway with my 4-spd and it too shifts like butter. Frozen butter, though.

Frankie will tell you that you don't need the FMU to add fuel since you have the 28lb injectors, but I run one to be safe. As far as drilling and tapping the pan goes, I'd recommend removing it rather than trying to do it from under the car. Aside from the tight space you'd be working with, you'll inevitably get metal shavings in the pan that have to come out. For the supply line, Frankie included a 3-way NPT fitting to screw into the block, sending unit, and supply line. The other end of the line screwed into a flange that mated up to the bearing inlet surface. Frankie made that flange himself but it's nothing fancy. If you can drill and tap, you can make your own easily. At the moment I'm running a stock replacement clutch. It slips sometimes under boost and I plan on installing a stiffer pressure plate the next time I have the tranny off.

I have a steel braided line spliced in behind my oil pressure sending unit for the oil supply, and for the return I have a 90 degree elbow piece coming off of the bearings with a piece of rubber hose on the bottom end that connects it to a fitting in my oil pan that I drilled/tapped and screwed in place. I got the elbow piece, steel braided line, and the oil pan fitting from Frankie.

I tried, but I couldn't get my hand up in there to pull the harness of off the flasher to check the wire. If someone has a multitester with a sharp probe that can penetrate the sheilding on that wire, it would be easy enough.

Are you referring to a 280z 5 spd? A lot of guys were saying that the early 5-spds had huge rpm drops between certain gears and were too weak.

My fan isn't working and without defrost all of my glass fogs up in a hurry. Edit: In the rain, that is.

Good deal. Btw an easy place to get signals from various components is the fuse box. I use a clip that fits over the end of the fuse to avoid soldering on the box.

I used a 30A automotive relay and taped off the live from the old relay. If you find the original relay and change its signal over to the fuel gauge that would work fine. The reasoning behind what I did is kind of complicated, but during my turbo swap a buddy of mine was wiring up my new pump and we had it installed in the engine bay for the sake of accessability, and at some point he decided to use his own relay. Btw, that was a bad idea as I later learned. The distance from the tank led to insufficient fuel pressure later on and now I have the new pump moved back to the stock location.

You could probably find the location of the stock relay from a search, but I don't know where it is. I just installed my own relay from radio shack.

Let us observe a moment of silence...

t3/t4 .63/.50; "Stage 1" turbine wheel. Dont ask me for details on the stage. I just know the wheel is trimmed down some from it's stock size.

Save yourself a lot of headaches and install a new fuel pump relay that's referenced to the fuel gauge power. That way, any time the key is in the "on" position the pump is running. That's how I have mine set up. I'm sure there are a couple of other things to reference the relay from.

If you have the time and skills to set up megasuirt, it would be a huge improvement over any stock ecu.