ezzzzzzz

Challenger, the surface was polished with a scotchpad puck in a drill to remove oxidation and discoloration. If a machinist's flat indicates a need I'll have that surface skim cut. I was pleased with the basic porting but want to perform a little more detail work. I think I'll push the exhaust guides out and work those bowls a little more too. The idea is not for maximum flow. Compromise between hp and longivity is my goal. Thanks for the input.

I guess I'm out voted. LOL. I work for the gov't so my expectations are the exact opposite of yours. Nothing happens fast. For that matter, I haven't found anyone in the engine building or machine shop industry that is expedient.. locally anyway. I certainly see your point. When said and done it looks like my stroker rebuild will be two years in the making.

Don't worry. Justin will come through. Anything could have come up. It wasn't that long ago that his machinist had that horrific accident to deal with. The flanges got made after things settled. I'm confident that we'll get those plemun flanges in due time.

I finally got to do some porting on my P90 head to match Justin's intake flange. This is for a modest L28 SC (M62) project pushing around 8 psi for street driving. I did not remove the valve guides so pocket grinding was minimal or none in those areas. The radius' at the bowls were smoothed and the runners were blended/port matched. I also chamfered the intake flange at the injector port to blend with the head. There was a lot of material on the floor and work bench when done. Any input or observations are welcome. Here are some photos.

You can find a lot of info on programming at LS1tech.com. It doesn't matter what car you're dropping the LSx engine in. Cheapest means is paying someone for a one-shot deal. If you're so inclined you can buy a single license/program to modify your PCM at will for a few more dollars.

Four well placed jack stands well up are needed! You'll be pushing and pulling a lot and you don't want that car coming down upon you! After I get the car stable on the stands I give it a damn good shake to be sure it's going nowhere. It doesn't hurt to place tires and/or the hydraulic jack in place in the event of any mishap. Getting crushed and suffocating would ruin the best of days. Disconnect the negative battery cable (always safety first). Remove the shifter knob. Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the bellhousing. Disconnect the speedo cable and any wiring harness connectors. Remove the driveshaft. Drain the transmission or be prepared to clean one heck of a mess when fluid pours out the back of the tranny (note, if you have a spare driveshaft you can remove the front yoke and use it to plug that opening). Unbolt the tranny from the engine and pull the starter at the same time. Start wiggling it off the engine. It is heavy and will hurt you. Wear gloves. I like to muscle it out and onto my chest where I can lower it off to the floor. It won't drop until the input shaft clears the pilot bushing and clutch plate. Do whatever you're there for and prepare to reinstall. I like to place two long bolts with the heads cut off into the block as guide pins. Rotate the input shaft to match the spline pattern of the clutch plate. Start working that beast back into place. It will go easy or hard but it will eventually go. Perfect alignment is a must. Sometimes it helps to have a friend rotate the tranny output shaft with the driveshaft. once seated well (<1/8" or none at all between bellhousing and block) reinstall bolts. Reverse the removal order. Connect neg battery cable after checking everything else twice. Done. I don't think I missed anything.

It may not become and issue BUT it it ever happened the odds really wouldn't matter. Kinda like getting bitten by a shark due to mistaken identity. You're still just as screwed.

There is much more digging required but I'm seeing this new idea has having flaws. The FWD hub is typically a complete assemby bolted to the spindle. As such, if the axle snaps the wheel remains attached to the vehicle. It is a full floating axle assembly. The idea of an outer flange bolted to the stub axle sounds good until (if) there is a failure. At that point the wheel leaves the scene...not good. It is possible to build a similar full floating rear assembly but the costs outweigh the benefits in IMHO. I'll keep looking into it though because it is a neat idea.

If you go aluminum remember to isolate it from the body. The aluminum acts like an anode for the steel and will deteriorate into a bunch of pin holes. It needs to be fully detached using rubber or plastic an an isolator.

That is a neat idea and possibly viable too. There are quite a few HP front wheel driven cars that use this axle setup. I will look into it. As far as axle length I see no real gain. As long as it can properly function from full compression to full extension there should be no problems. A big drawback to the S30 rear suspension is the short short LCA.

The axle will remain the same length. The reason is you must have room for the axle nut and axle movement within the CV joint. I looked hard to reduce the length to no avail. The adapter is machined to minimize weigh but retain strength. I did look at the VW/Porsche flanges but never saw anything that might be viable. If the present spline count cannot be accommodated without EPM then I'll consult with the broaching company to see what is available in the 1.245" diameter for mechanical splining. The difference between EPM and mechanical broaching is substantial. Here are the photos. The flange shown is for the 930 CV joint. The tig welding seen in the second pic is there because the bearing flange was too narrow on these prototypes. A ring was machined and welded in place to support the stock outer bearing. Future axles will have this lip machined properly from the start.

Yes. They should swap in place of your present stub axle/flange assembly. I'd have to know how thick your present adapters are to get comparable depth so the axle shafts would not need rework or replacement. Hopefully, I'll get the broaching done quicker than the other work and get a few pieces produced, via CNC machining, for interested parties. Of course, final cost will be the being or end of it all. Oh yeah, I corrected my measurements noted a couple of posts back. The axle OD is stock at 1.25" with the splined area at 1.245".

Well, it's been a while but things are progressing. I picked up the prototype stub axles (1.245" OD - 29 spline, 22mm nut and 1.25" OD overall) and 930 CV axle flanges from the machine shop. The pieces look great. The axles have a dual bolt pattern of 4 x 4.25" and 5 x 4.5" and a 19mm offset to match the Z31 5 x 4.5" front hubs. I now need to ship the flanges to have the internal splines cut. That cost will depend on whether they have a stock broaching tool to match or if EDM (wire cutting) will be required. That cost difference is substantial! The prototype flanges are machined from cold-rolled mild steel. That should suffice my needs as my earlier flange adapters are of the same material. If all goes well, I'll use 4150 to produce additional flanges for the 4 and 6 bolt Nissan CV's. I'll post up pictures this evening of these parts.

Just a word to let folks know I've got some item up on eBay. Search under seller name 'ezzzzzzz'. That's too easy huh? Right now I've got some odds and ends including a P90, E88, and Maxima N47 (MN47) head listed.

He is getting these out all over as he can. I just got lucky I guess. He'll take care of everyone in due time. It will be worth the wait for everyone involved.

I'm in for one rail (O-ring style). Received my flange yesterday. It is a piece of art. Very nice quality indeed. I need to get my head from the shop to start the proting now. Pictures will follow.

Others may have better info, but, my V07 LD28 crankshaft looks identical to a stock crankshaft. That includes the keyway. Is it possible this came out of an engine used in a forklift or other industrial application? It sure doesn't sound correct. Have you contacted the seller to determine it's origins?

The quickest and most logical fix for this problem is a locking tab strap. Basically, it is a rectangular length of sheet metal drilled at either end for the bolts. It installs between two adjoining bolts. Once the bolts are torqured the ends are bent up against two flats of the bolt head. This prevents the bolts from backing out. Very effective and easy to fabricate.

Josh817, the Eaton M62 SC was over $1200. The custom intake/SC mount/pullies/etc. are going to add substantually to that figure too. Just thought you should know. As things progress, I'll post more info. I'm waiting on an intake flange fron Justin Oslen right now. It is a crucial part in my plans. Oh yeah, whatca mean woo I b talkins choo, Careless?

I'm looking at 8.5 and running 6-8 psi boost (no intercooler). That may not be much by most standards here but it should provide for spirited driving and reliability too.

Ah, yes. I forgot about that bit if trickery.

ditto for what 1 fast z said. It is a 'race only' application, not intended for street cars (but marketed and sold by the $$$ anyhow). It can be used to protect other things from heatsoak though, just not exhaust components.

My project is for the heck of it. It isn't the best $ for $ value. I like the challenge and the sound of a straight 6 winding up. Like the Vette vs Ferrari, it is the uniqueness of a SC'd L6 I seek over the more traveled road of turbos and V8's.

Are you talking about the diode? It is used to prevent backfeeding the ignition when converting to an internal regulated alternator in the early s30's. Search for alternator conversions or upgrades to read more.

This is the every reason I will build my LD6 SC using the stock bore punched to 85mm. The cost of wet sleeving (the only option with this block for major bore increases) adds up quickly. At every turn, it makes a V8 conversion look more economical from a hp/tq standpoint IMHO.