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It has been done...search, grasshopper.

Twistex, could you provide more info on that LD28 build? Did you sleeve the block? There is the stock 84.5mm bore and only 12mm between bores on that block. The block is partially siamesed with an approximate 3mm gap between cylinders. That leaves approximately 3mm wall thickness stock. Your bore would remove 2.75mm of material leaving only .25mm of cylinder wall. That seems unreasonably little material to hold up to any combustion pressures over time. This based on rough measurments prior to sonic testing of my block. I'm building a LD28 (supercharged) stroker too. I plan to limit overbore to about 86mm to allow for a rebuild and provide adequate cylinder wall thickness. Sleeving was given consideration for a larger displacement but the payoff to payout was not even close to being reasonable. I'm using L20B rods and custom pistons. The mechanical P90a head has been drilled to accept the 12mm diesel headbolts. As for the stroked crankshaft, the limiting factor I see is clearance issues of the rods to block. If power is the only criteria then anything goes. I've had my days of that and look for compromise with regards to longivity. A roaring beast with a thrown rod or split cylinder wall is just a boat anchor.

I'm I missing something? What fills the gap at the bottom created by the adapter thickness?

I'd pull the inspection cover to determine if a shifter could mount here. I have my doubts but most anything is possible if you throw enough time and money at it.

What company? There are two I know of (Washington State and Australia) that do complete restorations of our old dashs. The cost is around $600 plus shipping. I have a complete early 240Z dash with only one very minor crack at the VIN plate.

$650 for a GOOD rebuild (including replacement of all bad gears, reverse included) is a fair price. A late model 5 speed (82-83) would be a nice swap. I build all of these 5 speeds myself for selling. The box you have is probably either a 5 speed roadster, 5-speed european, or comp model. Does it have a slip yoke or flange at the output? Is it a type A or type B shifter? It is a great box when rebuilt. Those syncros are expensive. I'd contact datsunparts to see if they would consider a return should the syncros not match up properly.

My choice for gear oil is the 'liquid gold' Castrol makes for the GM NV4500 5 speed. Any chevy dealer should be able to pull it right off the shelf for you. It sells for about $20 a quart. I run it in every manual box I own. If interested I'll pull the P/N off a bottle and post here when I get home.

http://www.indianmotorbikes.com/features/munro/munro.htm Burt ran just shy of 200 on a 1920's modified Indian at the salt flats. The movie 'World's fastest Indian' is a tribute to him. Well worth seeing! in comparison to late model high technology bikes that old Indian makes them look like overpriced jokes.

Excellent... I'm steady spending money on my stroker build. This will be the next step forward. Thanks again, Justin.

I'd contact SDS for assistance. Post any info they are able to supply you.

You can go the local auto parts store and peruse the a/c parts catalog. You may end up buying fittings for the hose ends that matxh a chosen dryer. I may even have a new R12 dryer in my parts bin. What are dimensions of your original dryer?

Where is Vacaville?

Any update on the machining? All of my hard parts are at Abacus Racing in Virginia Beach getting prepped. The porting of the head is on hold until I have the flange in hand.

I attach a small piece of zinc to a s/s wire inside the radiator cap area. You can see this anode slowly dissolve over time. It is especially helpful if you run an aluminum radiator that is in direct contact with the steel radiator support. I decided to go this route after the aluminum radiator in my land rover hybrid developed a small leak. Upon inspection the core looked like a pin cushion from electrolysis. The anode has greatly reduced the corrosive effects of dissimilar metals in close contact.

What year Z31 5 lug hubs can be used in the S30 conversion?

At the rear of your present transmission there are one or two ears cast into the tailhousing. These are just below the shifter area. Two ears (one on either side) it's an early 5 speed. One ear on driver's side means it's a late 5 speed from a 280ZX. They're both good but the later has a closer gear set from 1 through 5. The KA (240SX) transmission is a very good choice but you'll need to modify the older 5 speed bellhousing to accept the KA guts and tailhousing assembly.It also requires a modified driveshaft. You can rebuild your tranny if you acquire a bearing and syncro kit. It requires a few special tools and a good hydraulic press. Too bad you're on the west coast. I build these for side money but shipping back and forth would be prohibitive.

Monzter's combustion chambers remind me of the closed chambered angle plugs heads on my 73 Z-28 LT1 V8. Very potent.

Makes sense to me now. Thanks. I haven't read the Big N Nasty sticky as I was thinking more in terms of street engines, lightly modified and daily driven. I've always associated big porting with high rpm engines such as my old 73 Z-28 LT1 ( idled at 1200 with 7-8 vacuum) pushing 500 hp at the flywheel. I'll look over there to get some education on L6 headwork.

Having never ported a L6 head I have some questions..is there enough material to support removing that much metal? How far back into the runner would you blend to port match? Wouldn't it be an issue moving the injector much higher or will the port centerline be brought in line to place the injector back in it's stock location? I'm very excited about getting my flange! The prototype looks excellent!

The 153T would be fine. You might consider looking for a 153T flywheel behind a Chevy Vortec V6 with a manual box at a PNP for about $40-$50. It should reasonably light or could be lighten at the machine shop. A new one is great but the price is a bit high

I've got one in SE Va too. Shipping for such a large item is pricey. On the other hand, if you need one you can't just pick it up at the local Nissan dealer.

I am slowly heading towards my stroker/supercharger build. While at the local PNP I was looking at serpentine dampers on Nissans. The early 90's Stanza had a nice two belt damper that appeared promising. I pulled it to match to a stock L6 damper. The crank nose and I.D. and O.D. were smaller on the later damper. There wasn't enough metal to machine to size. It then occured to me that maybe another make of damper could be incorporated. The idea is to get a serpentine damper off something like a chevy that has a very close I.D. on the outer ring compared to the datsun piece. It could be machined to match the L6 hub, if possible. Alternately, the inner and outer of both dampers would be pressed off. These pieces would be sent to Damper Docter. They would fuse the outer (make unknown at this point) serpentine ring and the inner Datsun L6 hub. I don't know if the end results would be more accomodating/less expensive than the high dollar specialty pieces being sold. Any ideas and input?

Actually, I did. He is interested in selling his setup which I have no personal need for as I have most major parts. Additional info was asked for but not provided in the initial request. I did ask again but received no reply although he may not have seen the last PM I posted as of yet. He may be too busy to dig up that data (cam card) for me at this time. I hope he or someone else such as Braap or TonyD can provide some enlightenment. The book "Supercharged" does not elaborate on cam choices.

I was wondering if there is anything specific to supercharger profiles or will most any profile function well. I understand this is an abritrary question so bear with me. Any suggestions of specific cam profiles? I'm building my 3.1 L6 stroker (LD28 block/crank/L20B rods/custom pistons) and plan to bolt-on a non-intercooled Eaton M62 SC similar to KJones. The devil is in the details and I'm looking for any valuable info before I buy the remaining bits and pieces.

Paypal deposit sent. Thanks!