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Deja, try placing some Dynamat on the housing. I did this on my home's ac/heat gaspack outside with very small pieces. It cut the noise transmitted into the house dramatically. I'll be doing this on my GEN III when it is installed in my Z.

Stock sucks. Vintage Air (GEN III) is a very nice unit. I see nothing in that Virgo assembly to justify such a price tag. It appears to operate solely on vacuum pots which is a far cry from the servos that Vintage offers. Also. That is a very large unit which you'd be hard pressed to fit into the minimal space a S30 offers.

It's been a while and I've been pulled in other directions. Today I ordered some cold rolled 1018 to produce a small batch of flanges. These will be produced in three different patterns at this time. The flange broaching will be done by EDM and the stub axles will have rolled splines. These are inherently much stronger than cut splines. Prototyping is a slow and expensive process but there will be an end to it. I don't want to release anything I wouldn't be happy with. J. Soileau, if you or anyone has a spare flange for the R230 and would loan it out for measurements it would be appreciated. I'll return it ASAP.

Neither Ford or GM have ever built a good diesel engine. These things are junkyard fodder in only a few years. Diesels are prevalent everywhere but the US. Why is it that the big 3 cannot produce a decent equivalent? I'm not talking about the politics and worker's pay checks. I'm talking about sound design and engineering of a viable product. I have a Land Rover 300TDi and a Iveco 2.5 TDi. Both are truck engines. The Iveco was used in a flat bed heavy haul truck and has 158,000 miles on it. It is barely broken in! The 6.2 would be in the shop for a major rebuild by that time.

Well, after so much trouble I have finally gotten my hubs back from the broaching company. They were great to deal with. I won't go into the immense amount of trouble to get these prototypes completed. Here are the photos of the broached flanges. I'll be machining other sets of flanges for the 930 CV (Terry) and the four bolt and six bolt Nissan CV's shortly. I'm also looking at another source for rolling threads rather than cutting threads on these stub axles. Right now I'm slam in the middle of a hybrid Land Rover project and it must be completed and given a good shakedown run within the next two months. Sometimes I wish I'd never picked up a wrench. LOL

This header performs very well for me at all rpm's. At idle, I get that lumpy exhaust tone from my mild 2.4 (Crane 272 cam) but as soon as the skinny pedal goes down the tone shifts to the sweet euro sound (hard to actually describe). I don't often see anything a 4500-5000 except when I see a chance on the highway to run open. Seems I'm a natural target for attracting cops. Every time I start to get stupid there they are...damn it.

I received my plenum flange on Friday. It looks great. Thanks, Justin!!!

I just pulled my front wheels on the 240Z to measure offset clearances. On the stock hub, clearance to the spring perch is +5" or around 128mm. I'm installing Z31 hubs pushing that clearance out to 5.75" or 147mm. Running typical 235/40R17 tires on 17x9 0 offset wheels will provide about 4mm clearance from sidewall bulge to the spring perch. Is that enough clearance for tire flexing? The rear is not an issue as there is an additional 12mm of clearance.

Why, YES I am, but that's another subject all together.

Here's a photo of my very rare Janspeed SS header and slip-on collector from England. It is of exceptional quality and provides that wonderful "european" tone. It's bolted to my 2.4 but will find a new home on the 2.8 SC'd diesel block/diesel crank/P90 head L6 I'm building. Janspeed has long been known to build high quality high performance exhaust components. Note that every bolt is accessible without contortion or bent wrenches! Here's the link to the pic. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=18972

Braap, I'll get some photos up for you. The finished product is stock length to the S30 rack. As noted by others, the crossmember is modified at both ends to set the rack level correctly. The plus is the rack is lowered easing bumpsteer issues. The rack was removed and 1/2" cut off both ends. The holes were then drilled 1/2" deeper and additional threads cut (16-1.5 for my 2001 rack) to allow the inner tie rod to seat properly. Lastly, the two slots for the locking washer were cut again. This metal is DAMN hard to machine so you'll need quality tools and patience. The bitch is you need a piece of thin-walled sleeving (like shrink tubing) to reinstall the rack without possibly damaging the inner oil seal. Carfiche has the WRX manual that shows the process. Stock 2000 Volvo S80 inner tie rods were installed (NO modifications required). This allows me to use stock S30 tie rods (NO modifications required). I happened to buy that tool and a few other Subi ps rack tools off ebay for a LOT less than normal cost. The other bitch with the Subi rack is the oil seals are not marked. You need a VIN and production date to get replacements. Otherwise, you'll need to break out the dial indicator and head over to the seal/bearing distributor to find an alternative.

Did this engine run (for you) before you started the rebuild? When you first found TDC and installed the dampener was it lined up correctly with the timing pointer? Did you get the timing chain correctly installed once the head was in place? If so, I wouldn't be overly concerned with the oil pump/distributor drive spindle. Just be sure to rotate it a tooth either way to get it close to the factory position (I'm thinking you may not be taking rotation into account when putting the drive in). Set the engine back up to TDC. Install the spindle as close to factory as possible. Drop in the distributor and set it for about 10 static advance. If the timing components were installed correctly the engine will fire up and you can adjust timing. If I've missed something obivous I'm sure someone will chime in.

Thanks, Justin. If you're having any problems just PM me and we can work things out.

Justin shipped out the prototype intake flange to me several weeks back. The head has been proted and is in the shop getting fully assembled with new parts. The runner material is sitting here. I'm still waiting on my plenum flange to start completing the manifold. A PM to Justin on 6/9 has gone unanswered. If anyone knows what is going on please let us all know.

If the drum turns the brakes aren't holding it. Sounds like it's seized to the flange. Give it soaking of PB Blaster. Hit the drum on the face where it seats upon the flange using a lead or heavy rubber mallet to separate. Tapping from the side or back can damage the drum.

Do a simple search of R12 vs R134. The R134 molecule is smaller. That's why it requires barrier hoses and O-rings. The R12 compressor should have the seals replaced too for the same reason. The condenser core must be larger (serpentine desired) because the R134 doesn't give up heat as easily as R12. The evaporator orifice should be swapped for R134 too. Of course, you can use an inexpensive retro kit and get acceptable performance. The freon will eventually leak out due to incompatible components and cooling ability will be less than a properly designed system. That is why so many think that R134 is inferior...not so.

Is there any brake fluid in that vacuum line? Proper bleeding of the system? You can get a booster for less. I used a later 280Z booster with a little modification. That was merely an experiment to see if it could be done. My original brakes worked fine. I also have that good 240Z booster in my garage I'd let go.

I'm working on PS for my 240Z using an early 2000's Subi rack. The rack was removed and shortened 1/2" on both ends to closely match the stock rack width. The holes needed to be drilled deeper and tapped a bit more. Volvo S80inner tierods replaced the Subi units. Stock S30 outer tierods can be installed without any cutting to accomodate alignment. The crossmember was modified to drop the Subi rack about 3/4" which is equivalent to relocating the LCA hole for bumpsteer correction.

Will do, Terry.

I'll address things backwards. If the stub axle breaks at the inner flange (typical) then you'll most likely get to the side of the road before the axle could ever works its way out of the housing. There have been occasions where the outer flange separated from the axle shaft. The wheel just goes away in this case (bad karma). Nothing is unbreakable. I haven't followed the MMS axle posts to see if an evaluation was performed to determine why there was a failure. I hope my axles can perform to comparable satisfaction of the hardcore racers. My future axles will use a 22mm nut vs. the stock 20mm. The axle shaft is virtually 1.25" its entire length (stepped down to 1.245" at the splines and between the bearing seats. The only thing not addressed is a dust collar as found on stock axles. I don't see it as a big issue since the outer bearing in sealed anyhow. The first adapter flanges (930 CV) should be back to me by this week's end. If I'm happy with the results I'll focus on a second set of adapter flanges for the second set of axles already produced. Whether these will be 280ZXT or 300ZX is undecided at this point. I need someone willing to purchase these and test in a real world situation behind a V8 or strong L6. I'll probably approach someone in the local region (SE Va or NE N. Carolina). I have confidence that they will serve well. After that, I'll focus on some new axles and flanges using 29 to 31 splines (higher spline counts don't really add much in durability according to my axle manufacturer). The stub axles are being produced to match the 19mm offset of the Z31 front hubs. They can be produced to 0mm offset too. I'm having them drilled on 5x4.5 and 5x5.75 patterns. 4x4.5 is also an option. Lastly, the Z31 hubs are 5x4.5 and cannot be redrilled to 5x4.75 without extensive and overly costly modification IMHO.

I've got the same unit for install in my 240Z. It looks like you were able to accomplish this without pulling the whole dash? That has been my biggest setback as I don't want to park the vehicle during the upgrade. I'd like to figure a way to select cabin or outside air too. I plan to add layers of Dynamat to my a/c evaporator unit to help lower the noise levels. Heck, I even used some on my home a/c unit out back. It made a huge difference! To answer chemical blue, No, it is not electric. You have to mount a belt driven compressor out front. Most use the later two or three belt pulley. instead of the early single belt often found on the 240Z.

This is a P90a head that I'm using with Justin's custom intake flange. Since it is for a mild SC project I didn't go crazy porting. The guides were pushed back for working room. Those will be replaced with stock cast iron pieces. The seats will also get replaced. The head will get shaved as little as possible. Hopefully, it won't require enough metal removal to warrant shimming the cam towers. Any constructive input is welcome.

Did this car ever run good? If so, did you play under the hood and it start running poorly? Have you done a basic tune-up? You'd be amazed what plugs. wires, cap, and rotor will do for an engine. Adjusting the valves is easy enough but won't cure problems like yours unless things are really out-of-wack. Look at posts 6 and 16 in the link provided. It tells you how to tune/sync SU's. It's quite simple. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23101&highlight=su

Thanks fellas. I just brain-farted there. It should have been obvious to me but my head was going in too many directions at that time.

I picked up these hubs sometime back. They are suppose to be off a Z31. The bolt pattern is 5x4.25"(?). Everything I read says the Z31 5 bolt pattern is 4.5". Any insight would be helpful.