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http://www.esnipe.com is the tool you need. I use religiously. Just buy a few points, add the auction you want, name your high price and walk away. It helps with those auctions ending at odd hours and keeps you from getting the 'fever' that is usually followed by buyers regret because you paid too much.

After much thought and anguish I think this is will be my new wheels. True pin drive rims. The look works well with the lines of a Z and is period correct too. http://www.vintagewheelsus.com/products-br17.html

I'd posted in earlier related posts about this. The SC is a Eaton M62 4th gen generic unit (not a GM or Ford model). I purchased an intake flange from Justin Olsen and it is the base for the SC setup. I'm having a plenum fabbed to mount the SC on the vertical where the stock air cleaner would normally be in my 240Z. There will be no intercooler. I plan to boost only in the 6-8 psi range. The bracket for the SC belt tensioner and the 6-rib crank pulley still needs to be fabbed. Hopefully, the long block will be complete within a couple of months and I can start on the ancillaries, brackets, etc. The most work so far involved the LD28 block. The are several water passages that needed to be plugged (requires external bypass for the WP), steam holes matching the block to the head, the oil gallery needed to be drilled for the center pick-up (and other holes associated with the front sump blocked off), drill hole for fresh air inlet for PCV system, bored to 85mm and normal block prep. The V07 crank was shortened 4mm at the flywheel (reduces harmonic issues) and rods/mains undercut 10 thou. L20B Rods were balanced and prepped. Custom JE pistons were ordered. Custom 12mm head studs are being produced by ARP. P90A mech head was ported, drilled to accept 12mm studs and given a valve job. The new ISKY springs/retainers/cam are being installed. Valve to piston clearances are next to be checked prior to final decking and flycutting to achieve minimal clearance of 25 thou or less and c.r. of about 8.5. The 240mm flywheel will be lightened to 16-18 pounds. The Euro damper and flywheel will be balanced with the crank. When the long block is complete I anticipate dropping in my L24 distributor and bolting on SU's to break the engine in. Once done, I'll replace the dizzy and SU's for the SC, fuel injection and SDS system. I hope to get about 275-300 hp out of this creation and still have a very streetable Z.

I'd bet on ignition too based on back firing through exhaust. Does it only rear it's head when you turn a corner? If so, I'd look at connections (loose, broken, pinched, etc).

What? A SC'd 2.8 stroker? It's actually a LD28 block and crank being converted to petrol using a P90 head. The block picture shows some of the water passages that need to be plugged. It's been about a year in actual production as parts and ideas have come together. I won't go into the details of block work but it is not like using your standard L6 block. Anyhow, the bulk of the work is done and I was waiting on Ron Iskendarian to regrind my P90 cam. It arrived today. The specs are asymmetrical 480/268in 490/276ex 112 lobe center. Notice how rapidly the lift is while it drops the valve back onto the seat with a gentle slope. This is smaller than many cams run here but it's for a SC'd application and intended as a spirited daily driver. At the rate I'm going it wil be 6 more months before I close to installing this engine. I'm throwing out a couple of photos.

Well, here's my latest. I know no one here is willing to put out the money for a set of axles like this but I can say I did it. These were produced by Mark Williams Enterprises and at great cost. They are fully heat treated CNC'd Cromoly with screw-in studs. The spline count is 29 which is ideal (45 degree pressure angle) for the diameter while giving up a minimal of minor diameter. The only addition is the pressed spacer to get the 19mm offset I wanted. The last photo shows the nice fit of the internal broached reference plate. I'll let the pictures speak. I'm not through and will be looking to get the less expensive axles produced. Matching flanges are being machined as I type.

Did you move the wheel to the other side? Did you still break studs? You might consider having new holes drilled if you can't easily replace the wheel. I can't view 'youtube' at work so I'm flying blind here. One thing is for certain. Don't use it as it is! The next time the studs give way might be your final day above ground (or somebody elses).

I've seen people start with a hell of lot more rust. That car looks like a strong platform to begin from. What VIN is it? Not that it really matters but everyone always ask. It appears to be a 72 or 73 to me. If you pull the headlight buckets I think you'll find more rot in that front support. You could attempt to repair it, build a custom clip as you suggested or find a good donor car for the front end. Where are you located?

Here are pics of Revolution gauges and my turn signal solution for my 240Z. http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=11277&d=1231383090, http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=11280&d=1231383090, http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=11570&d=1232418299 Here's another link using autometer gauges. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138058

Used is the only source that I'm aware of. On a rare occasion someone puts a NOS or refurbished up on eBay. It occurred to me to have some reproduced but the initial cost would be high and I don't know how many out here woyld actually pay $$ for a reproduced part. A friend of mine had his plastic interior pieces repaired/rechromed for his 60's Impala. The results were amazing. I've considered going that way too. You can only keep an eye open and hope for the best. I have one for my 71 in pristine condition but plan to hold on to it. I replaced it with a 73 version so I could incorporate my Vintage Air ac/heat control panel properly. That said, I'm looking for a 'very good' 73 panel myself.

I put a KA conversion in my 240Z. The stock 240SX shifter was too tall and sloppy. My fix was to cut that shifter off below the rubber damper and weld on a shortened upper half of a type "B" shifter. My shift knob just barely clears the interior leather boot. The shift is tight, smooth and it looks correct with the small diameter lever instead of that grossly fat 240SX version. It beats the heck out of paying dearly for an aftermarket shifter.

Cutting up the car is one thing. Swapping out a motor that can easily be undone is another. If it's his only toy and funds are limited it doesn't make sense to go buy yet another car. Even a later 260Z or 280Z is decent condition is going to set the average guy back. You could go buy a POS and spend untold hours and cash on building a one-off ride. I'd rather put that money into hard parts (engine, trans, springs, shocks, wheels, tires, etc) to make this car more enjoyable. REMEMBER, keep every piece you remove! Label it. Wrap it up. Box it up. Should you ever decide to revert back to original you'll have everything you need. Should you decide to sell it you can decide if it's worth more to revert it or offer the car with all of the original pieces to a propective buyer. Having said that again and again, you could possibly rebuild your original L24 if it's tired. Some minor porting, cam change, electronic ignition and exhaust work can make this a very fun car to drive. Many years ago I built my cars to run balls to the wall. They were damn fast but required constant tinkering. There was also someone out there with more money and a faster car. I prefer spirited performance over sheer speed today. Please post us pictures of your 240Z. By now, everyone wants to see what we're ranting about.

I recall a full set selling on eBay a few months ago. I think the final selling price hovered around $1k.

I'll say it again. It's your car. Do what you want to. There are many changes you can make that can be reversed for a restoration or future sale. Just keep all of the parts you remove should going backwards become reality. I have a 71 240Z and it's probably a 9 on a 10 scale. I've made numerous upgrades. None are such that I can't revert back to original. That said, I will be adding ZG eyebrows soon. That will mean major metal work not easily undone. Hey, it's my car and I plan to keep it for life.

A stock engine will easily take 250-300 hp. Unless you plan to make big changes to the intake, head, and larger turbo I'd run what you have. But that's just me...

Have you contacted the local Z clubs for assistance? There's Smokey Mountain, Triad, and Middle Tennessee. Also call or e-mail Roger at the Z Barn in Knoxville. I'm sure you can get help directly or pointed in the right direction.

Have you contacted one of the Tennessee Z clubs like Smokey Mountain or Middle Tennessee? Maybe place a call or E-mail Roger at Z Barn in Knoxville.

One thing to think about is torque. The loads placed on the driveshaft u-joints and flange bolts are far less than those imposed at the halfshafts. I believe you'd need buckets of torque and very sticky tires to 'f' shear driveshaft flange bolts. That's just my simple opinion at a glance.

A picture is worth a thousand words. What I'm getting out of your question is this adapter allows you to bolt a 700r-4 (typically fitted to 90 degree V6 and V8) to a Chevy 2.5 (60 degree pattern or sometimes called an inverted T). How thick is this adapter? Is it cast aluminum or a thin piece of steel? I can only assume it is steel. Are you using the stock flexplate for the 2.5 and trying to use the stock convertor for the 700r-4? It may be as simple as using the proper convertor found behind the 2.5. It may be that you need to use a V6/V8 flexplate if it will allow you to do so (clearances and starter engagement come to mind). My guess is either convertor is dimensionally the same in depth and will engage the input shaft/pump drive of the transmission but smaller in overall diameter. You may need to head over to a transmission shop or junk yard to do some comparisons. That said, I don't know what you're talking about when refering to welding bolts. It should not make any measurable difference if you drill new holes to mount the larger convertor assuming all other dimensions allow for proper engagement of the transmission input shaft/pump drive. Lastly, there MUST be a 4 speed auto transmission to fit a 2.5 engine that would make everything easier.

You can buy aluminum or s/s hardlines from Vintage Air. Both come in different lengths. The s/s lines can be silver soldered for truly custom fit. They also sell Aeroquip a/c hose and fittings you can fab in your driveway. The cost of parts is a bit higher but the end results is excellent. You don't have to buy a beadlock crimper ($$$) or locate an a/c shop ($$$) to crimp for you either.

Welding in the brackets adds rigidity. Plus, would you want to bet your health on a few pop rivets in a frontal collision? It is a simple task with a mig welder. If you're anxious about it then ask for help or get in a little practice on some scrap. The key is clean metal and a good welder.

Since you're only talking a motor upgrade then go for it. Keep the 2.4 on a pallet in the garage for the matching numbers. Many changes can be made to your 70 that can easily be undone should the desire to do a resto come up. Just be sure to keep the old hard parts with the engine. Here are some Z club links in NC. http://www.carolinazclub.com, http://www.trianglezclub.com, http://www.triadzclub.com

At roughly 24" they are smaller OD than stock. You should have no problem except the ride gets really harsh with the diminishing sidewall.

Could be spark leads breaking down (crossfire) too.

I don't see it as an issue. There are others like Braap and TonyD that could add valuable input here.