ezzzzzzz

I was thinking about picking up some green foam at the arts and crafts store. A little time carving would produce a mini BRE spoiler (to match the rear BRE spoler). It could be mounted between the hatch seam and weatherstripping. That would have to produce a measurable difference in airflow! I think you need to add a few cardboard fillets to prevent air pressure from collapsing that makeshift cardboard spoiler in order to get viable results. Let us know how the yarn acts.

You are now qualified for Sainthood.... When it goes good it seems too easy and when it refuses to budge it really sucks. Most of us have been there. Welcome to the club.

Back to basics... I'm going to remove the 240SX cable brackets and weld up the ends. I'll then redrill the proper size holes, cut the slots to install the cables, a little touch-up grinding and new paint. The job will be done right and is easier than sourcing a 240SX E-cable then going through the extra work to install it.

When sourcing bearings and seals look at the local industrial parks or power transmission parts suppliers. You'll typically get good bearings at a lesser cost. I never by my bearings at the auto parts stores unless it just isn't available otherwise.

I was looking at a 280ZX at a stop light yesterday. There are there big but subtle changes in the roofline. One is a distinct change in the roofline slope at the top of the hatch, two is a small dip (or inverted lip) at this point as the rear slope starts and finally the negative change of slope at the bottom of the glass to the rear panel. We can't address the last issue but a small spoiler at the top of the glass might be the answer. I'm looking at fabbing a single spoiler that will bolt to the louver hinges and affix it to the glass with double sided tape. Different sizes could be tried until a viable, if any, design shows an improvement in fume ingestion.

I'm going to look for simple metal bushings. I can cut a notch to allow it to fit over the cable. The lip of the bushing will keep the housing at the bracket just like stock. That's assuming I can find the right bushing....

Ok, I'm finishing up the 240Z rear brake conversion using Ross' brackets and 240SX calipers. Everything is working out fine except the E-brake cables. The end of the cable will pass completely through the E-cable bracket on the caliper (the hole is too big and cable end too small). Has anyone else run into this and what did you do to resolve it?

A vortex generator creates a small vortex (in this case) which mixes stagnant boundary air (on the surface) with moving air helping to keep the high speed air attached to the body. I was thinking you would want to prevent this on the S30 body. On the EVO MR it helps move more air onto the rear wing aiding in downforce. It would be interesting to see a windtunnel smoke test of a stock S30 and then additional photos of spoiler, vortex generators, etc. Anyone got access to one?

I'll try to yarn test when it's back on the road (hopefully soon!). My idea is that the use of a tubular deflector or a small spoiler(s) would help create more of this valley with the aid of the rear deck spoiler. It certainly doesn't fix the inherent problem but might help diminish it to some degree. If you look at any car today you'll see that there is always a valley or subtle V shape from the top of the roofline to the rear lip of the vehicle. This valley creates a low pressure area (look at the 280ZX again) allowing the high pressure (read high speed) air to break away from the vehicle near the roofline and straighten out. Without that valley the high speed air wants to hug the body. On our S30 this high speed air is only detaching off the surface at the rear hatch lip. As speed increases this creates lift and also sucks the low pressure air (and exhaust) behind the rearend up to meet it. A spoiler doesn't really help push the rearend down but does help create an inverted airplane wing effect. That low pressure effect aids in pulling the car downwards as the air passing over the vehicle (longer distance) attempts to keep pace with the air flowing under the vehicle (shorter distance). Look at the 280ZX again. You can see this effect as the higher speed air is several inches above the trailing edge of the car, not hugging the sheetmetal. That same low pressure extends outward off the back of the body. The way I see it is you are reducing the difference in hi/low pressure at the trailing edge. This difference reduces the tendency of the exhaust being pulled back against the rear panel but instead allows it to move more easily away from the vehicle. I'm no engineer but it seems reasonable to me when I look at wind tunnel photos. Lastly, think of a golf ball. The dimples aren't there to look pretty. They create a multitude of low pressure areas that allow the high pressure air to more easily slip over, under and around.

Interesting drawing. If you'll look at the 280ZX windtunnel effect you'll note the air flow across the rear hatch. It does appear to breakaway midway up the glass because of the small flatter area extending out to the rear of the car. That area is actually the low pressure area as well as the rear panel of the car. It seems that the S30 holds the high pressure tightly to the hatch until it reaches the rear of the car because no rapid change to the rear hatchbody exists. As it exits over the rear panel it pulls the low pressure air upwards. Opening the windows accentuates the induction of fumes into the interior. Look at it like this...a pickup truck with the tailgate shut creates a fixed low pressure area with stagnant air. Items in the bed aren't tossled around. If you drop or remove the gate then high turbulance is created and everything is sucked out forced against the back of the cab as high pressure tries to fill the void. Back to the S30, the rear spoiler helps to create a low pressure area helping to reduce fume induction. The problem is it happens too little and too late. You need to get the high pressure air off the body much sooner. I have a window louver and BRE spoiler and still deal with fumes (lots of other work in progress to reduce this). Someone mentioned in another post that affixing small tubular pieces perpendicular to this air flow could induce early tubulance and creat that low pressure area we long for. No one would likely care for it as it wouldn't be appealing visually. For experimental purposes I am going to affix half-round tubing or small spoilers to the upper half louvers of my car and test that theory. They will be in the range of 1/2" to 3/4" to hopefully promote some measurable effect. Painted black they should not be too obtrusive to the eye. If it actually worked then maybe two or three could be be attached across the top of the hatch glass to promote the same affect. These could be made from half-round plexi stock and glued with clear silicone again to reduce the visual impact and possibly pass state inspection too. Just another thought...

Here/s another link regarding bleeding...there are many! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106464&highlight=ezzzzzzz

I tried every angle to get the "last" one available. If it's still on the shelf you'll find it at the Summit store in Athens(?), Georgia. They would not ship out of that store. For what it's worth, http://www.diy-efi.org and http://www.techedge.com.au can provide info, parts, kits and complete units too.

I use a plastic or glass jar as a catch container, Pop. The speed bleeders, acting as a check valve, allow for a quicker bleed, that's all. Using the stock bleed screw works fine but it does allow a small amount of old fluid to be drawn back into the line each time the pedal is released. Eventually, you'll get there regardless of the bleed screw you choose. As for the bleeders that pressurize the MC, you are pushing fluid down in that process. Air only travels upwards freely. My method helps reduce the air being finely dispersed in the fluid and bleeds the MC properly too. I've used both and prefer my bottom to top method.

Yep

I bought a simple hand-pumped sprayer at the local DIY. I first crack open the bleed screws, one at a time, starting with the furthest out (usually the driver's rear) and pump the fluid out into a catch container. As a note, I use speed bleeders on my calipers. I then remove the speed bleeders and install regular bleed screws with a bit of teflon sealant or tape on the threads. The spray wand is removed so there is only the hose remaining (you may have to adapt a hose to fit the bleed screws). A simple cutoff valve in placed in the hose to stop the brake fluid flow at my disgression. With the sprayer filled with enough fresh brake fluid to do the job, I pump it up to build some pressure. The hose is attached to the furthest bleed screw (cracked slightly open) and the valve is opened to start the flow of fluid. I watch the MC reservoir for fluid rising until there are no air bubbles. I continue through the remaining bleed screws. Once here, I let the system sit so any air in the lines while migrate to localized areas. A couple hours will more than suffice. I replace the bleed screws with my speed bleeders and do a normal brake bleed usng the brake pedal and a catch container. The speed bleeders make it a one man job. One nice part about this method is it properly bleeds the MC for you without that extra step involved. That's all there is to it.

In all the efforts to reduce or eliminate exhaust fumes drawn into the car has anyone tried to minimize the low pressure area in the rear? I was thinking that narrow plastic scoops mounted in the rear wheelwell opening (out of view) could be vented up and out the rear valance, just below the bumper, via hose. The outlets could be installed to look factory and visually pleasing. The idea is the low pressure would draw air out of the wheelwell (and from under the car). This might have a positive effect on downforce and lower that notorious low pressure area too. It might help to reduce fumes getting pulled into the car with open windows. I wish I had access to a windtunnel to test the theory. This would supplement the replacement of all rubber and filling of all holes, of course. It's just a thought... What are your opinons?

I picked up my 2000 LS1/4L60E from http://www.hpsalvage.com in Texas. Mark is very professional and it showed right down to the shipping crate. It had 16k on the ticker and came complete with EVERYTHING down to the exhaust and ECM with complete uncut harness. Shipped to Virginia for $4500. It looks brand new and is still sitting in my garage while I decide if it goes into my Land Rover or 240Z. I also got a full standalone harness and ECM (non-emission and no torque control) from Chevrolet Performance Parts. Picked it up on eBay for $1100 brand new.

I have a set of 280ZX SS flex lines from MSA. I'll only be using the front ones. If you want to purchase the rear lines at cost just let me know. I'm only one city over from you in Portsmouth.

Keep us posted on the serpentine damper. I am looking to have a dual (v-belt/serpentine) damper fabbed. I want to drive my old school stuff and also drive a Kenne Bell supercharger. This is just the beginning stages though and there are many miles to travel.

Thanks. That's enough info for me. I have a F54 block in the garage so I guess it will be the recipient of a LD28 crank.

I've never seen anyone mention the LD28 block when stroking a L6. Is there a particular reason for this?

No, you don't need them persay. Consider this though, some are designed to direct air flow for cooling purposes (not the S30's unless you modify for an air duct). Most importantly, should some road debris be kicked up and into the rotor it may shove the shield against the rotor BUT it won't possibly get jammed up into the caliper/rotor. The odds are well against this happening but it could happen. Of course, a brake line could get severed too and create a bad situation too. Just imagine a scenario where you only a one front brake functioning and you need to brake HARD...the faster, the scarier.

What is the static timing? It should be up around 12 btdc with triples. If there are vacuum leaks or the timing is close to stock you'll never get it to idle proper.

Poor exhaust scavenging will result in lower hp. The exhaust pulse rate is effectively cut in half with split exhaust. I'd at least run a crossover pipe if I split the exhaust. You could run a proper exhaust and Y it at the rear for the look.

If you're not experiencing this problem in other gears in the same rpm range I would suspect a lack of fuel to support the engine load. I would look at the emulsion tube. It is the heart of a sidedraft when the mains kick in. Maybe go up a size on idle jet and retune the carbs too if you think the transistion phase is causing the bog. You didn't say if the engine pulls fine after the bog which would point away from the emulsion tube. Lastly, I think you are over on the choke for this engine. A 34mm would be the max I'd consider with that combo. I suspect your engine would start to peak out on hp here anyhow.