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redlinevo7

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Everything posted by redlinevo7

  1. redlinevo7
    Still going, life got in the way but nearing completion. Just finishing up interior wiring then to lay carpet and all the small fun things then to get it to dyno to tune. Will probably do a follow up vid in a couple months.
  2. redlinevo7
    Hi Yes had them for a while but pretty sure that's what they were
  3. redlinevo7
    Hey guys Sorry been real busy otherwise. Started engine but TPS sensor was dying/dead so couldn't really rev out but at least it turns over, so just waiting on the sensor and should be able to get a proper test done. Alot of people have been asking me about the gauges, so fyi here are the ones I have, they are customized but this will give you the part numbers at least and sizes... GRS-WTR-01 2-5/8" Water Temp Gauge 120-260F GR4.5-TACH 4-1/2" Tachometer Gauge 10K RPM GR4.5--SF-03T 4-1/2" Dual Gauge - 160mph Speedometer GR258-OIL-04 2-5/8" Oil Pressure Gauge 100 psi GR258-BOOST-01 2-5/8" Boost/Vac Gauge
  4. redlinevo7
    Couple more pics. Engine was swung over on starter and getting 30psi oil pressure at 200rpm so should be good for a full start. Had to get starter rebuilt because it was literally the only thing I hadn't changed and as luck would have it, it was dead. Just gotta sort out why the ecu is not sending a signal to the fuel pumps.
  5. redlinevo7
  6. redlinevo7
    Hey everyone, searched but on my phone couldn't find anything listed. Hoping someone can tell me the length for the water pump and alternator belt they used on their RB engine. No power steering or a/c. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  7. redlinevo7
    Recent pics
  8. redlinevo7
    More recent back pic with exhaust mounted.
  9. redlinevo7
    Thanks guys. I like it also, plus it's different which is what I was going for.
  10. redlinevo7
    My '77 280z with RB26. Still a work in progress. More pics on instagram @redlineimports
  11. redlinevo7
  12. redlinevo7
    New video update...
  13. redlinevo7
    FInally got the engine in. Not the best quality pic just a shot with my phone. Now gotta clean up everything and work on the custom oil catch can and couple other parts as well as run piping.
  14. redlinevo7
    I have the obx pipes. They seems o be good quality although I haven't actually run the engine yet but the build quality looks good especially comparing the price to the tomeis. My build is in this section also. You should find a pic or two of them there.
  15. redlinevo7
    I took some pics today and some measurements. Wil try and get them off and uploaded tomorrow for you.
  16. redlinevo7
    Hey Ian, I'll be back at the workshop tomorrow and can measure the shaft for you but it was actually from McKinney themselves and fit back in spot on.
  17. redlinevo7
    Thanks guys. NIce to get feedback and know your hard work is not unnoticed. Regarding the back I always knew it would be a love / hate sort of thing for some people and I don't really have a problem with the original rear either but the purpose of this car was always to be a bit different without straying too far from the classic feel of the car. It's by no means a purists type of car but I did limit myself to staying pretty much all datsun/nissan family, with the only exception being the fender indicators that are from a BMW. I also wanted to keep it straight 6 but again upgrade. Otherwise its more of a modern interpretation with a personal twist and a desire to be unique without going overboard. I think when the car comes together in totality the rear will suit it even more but I like it and I guess that's the main thing. I live on an island and to be honest this will be currently the only one here in drivable condition so I have nothing to compare it to. Ironically I have never had the care in it's complete stage, never even driven in an S30 before believe it or not. Our imports are restricted and our duties on cars and parts are crazy (read $44,000 USD for a new corolla). How much would you guess something like this would go for up in 'Merica, not that I plan to sell it any time soon, just see so many varying prices up there. There was a green one on Ebay that was very nice with a SR20 a couple years back that I think went for just over 60g US. Jared was the guy's name. That was tastefully modded and restored but also not a true restoration, but alot more restrained in the modifications department than I am. I believe I remember a comment where he said he gave it away at that price, and after 5 years of working and investing in one, I can see where he is coming from.
  18. redlinevo7
    Been a while... Got dash and console back from flocking. Engine going in shortly and exhaust to be fitted then running wiring harness. \ \
  19. redlinevo7
    Custom 'Z' emblem for rear light center panel.
  20. redlinevo7
    Speedhut.net
  21. redlinevo7
    Hey guys just found out engine pic made it to speedhunters site. Check it out... http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/03/iamthespeedhunter-the-engine-theme/ (4th one down) Nice wallpaper size too.
  22. redlinevo7
    Sorry was for previous poster Vintage-TechZ before me asking me to post in his new thread about the gauges but couldnt find the thread.
  23. redlinevo7
    Can you give me link to the post? Can't seem to find it.
  24. redlinevo7
    My advice if you're going to the point of rebuilding the engine, even if you aren't doing it yourself (which I would not suggest given you have to ask the above questions), knowledge is power. Google and youtube are your friends and even though you can't believe everything you read/watch and there is no replacement for hands on experience, you will still be far better equipped to understand it all and at least make sure no one carries you for a ride.
  25. redlinevo7
    I am no pro engine builder but I'll give it a shot till someone with more technical experience can clarify. Bearings are thin metal sleeves that usually encompass the crankshaft to the block/cradle and the rods to the crank. The clearances mentioned have to do with the small spaces between the parts that allow for a bit of play and oil flow. Generally speaking the larger the clearance the more power you can theoretically make but the quicker the wear on the parts. Race engines usually have higher clearances but are rebuilt more frequently. For your modest goals I would suggest either stock or a nominal size over. Piston bore would be the diameter of the piston itself as it relates to the block. I'm not overly familiar with the RB25 but I would imagine first option may be stock and then up from there. The reason you could go bigger is to allow machining of the block in case there was any issue previously and the walls had to be machined open to clean them up, then the new pistons would be up to spec. (the machinist would bore the block to match the new pistons). I assume you would get a very slight power increase also. The crank collar is the end of the crank that the oil pump mechanical gear is driven by. On pre R33 engines these were thinner and therefore had less contact area to turn the pump, often resulting in oil pump failure, one of the common issues with these engines, especially at higher rpm. The R33 and up resolved this issue by making the crank collar about twice as long. A common upgrade as offered by the option here is to have an afternarket collar the same size as the R33 fitted on the R32 crank, thereby upgrading it. It is pretty much a no brainer upgrade that you will want, along possibly with restricting flow to the head and making sure the return pathways from head to block are clear of any casting slag so oil can flow back to the sump easily. The ARP bolts are upgraded bolts and while the stock ones should handle the hp you're looking for I would suggest to be on the safe side and upgrade them. Hope I have clarified it for you a bit. But willing to be corrected if I'm wrong... Cheers
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