steve260z

I'm not even sure what's being described here but what about the voltage regulator?

Have about 4,000 miles on the motor now. Carbs are really tuned well, running 34 degrees all in. Tested the compression, engine warm and carb wide open. #1 170 180 180 175 180 182 Good numbers. Using the Schneider stage 2 cam, so don't know how much of an impact overlap has on static compression numbers.

Looking forward to the info!!!!!!!!!!!

Yea. Bought a wide ban O2 meter, discovered vacuum leaks around the Weber throttle shafts. I continue to tune the webers but have a fairly solid 12-13 AFR now. Pulls real strong. Need to hit that same mobile dyno again to make another run.

Other thoughts? Yes. spray for vacuum leaks

Which model DCOES do you have?

25mm is the general target for Webers

The float level is the most basic thing. Don't need any special tools. Yes, Keith and others have come up with cool novel ways of measuring the depth of a fluid in a hole. That's all you're doing. Do this, just cut a white strip of paper or card stock the width to dip into the hole. Make a mark 25mm from one end and look and see when the paper breaks the surface of the gas. That's it. You know how to do it. Don't try to to bring in vacuum advance into getting the Webers running right. The solution is within your engine bay right now. Set the max advance at 34. Wherever that leaves your static, that's what it is.

The 510 article above addresses the throttle position I was mentioning. Good find.

I replaced all my leather seals and the carbs acted totally different. As in different but not much easier to tune!!! You have to spray around and get rid of the air leak. Maybe you have one maybe you don't. Another thing since everything matters with these carbs. I assume the flat spot occurs when the pump jet is put into action. In that you are not slightly feathering the throttle.......Do this, yes take the carbs off AGAIN...Keep the the gas in the carbs, activate the throttle plates so gas shoots our the pump jets. Yes, it will come spraying out. Make sure they are actually spraying out and working. I happen to have 1 pump jet that just dribbles out. Haven't decided if that's a problem yet but at least make sure they are working..... I was able to tune the carbs and get rid of 90% of the flat spot by working each carb by itself in the manner I described above. You can move the throttle plates from the idle position, then to transition holes then to pump jet and main jet. This allows you to see where the problem is occurring and allows to see how each carb transitions and see which ones are good and which ones are bad. It also allows you to exclude the linkage as a problem issue since its not connected. If I had to do it all over again I would have bought new carbs verses used ones but that's a totally in the past thing.

Yes, boy all that sounds way too familiar. First regarding the head shaving. I can't remember the amount shaved off the head to use cam tower shims but do you need those? Does the new sprocket actually adjust for the geometry change? Check that out. Ok, carbs. You need to look at each carb individually. Take the linkage off each carb once it's running and warm. Rev each carb by hand to see if u get the bog with the car just sitting there. Since the engine has no load this is an easier test for the carbs to pass. Hopefully u still get this bog during this test cause it's very useful. I think you need to get the throttle plates in a different position at idle. It all starts there. Assuming u get the bog in this test make adjustments on the throttle plates and idle jets until the bog is gone. Now, I don't treat the standard setting suggestions as absolutes, by any means, but it's noted in many set ups that the idle jets should be turned out near 1 1/2 times. U are way less than that which would indicate they are too big. But, I have the same amount of turn out on my idle jets as well so go figure. I've set mine to achieve AFR. What happens when you have over run on the engine? (Let off throttle at 4K plus? Does the exhaust pop and or what is AFR at that point?) Spray starter fuild all around the intake and throttle shafts , anything happen? If you have vacuum leaks the engine speed will drop. Steve

Here's the difference between the rear Tokico linear springs and the Eibach Pro Kit Progressive springs.

Good numbers on 26 degrees, I'll try my 34s or 32s. Its one of the two I have on hand.

Yea, that sounds familiar to me as well. Regarding the graph, I'm running 36s in my DCOE 40s and think I have some 34s round here. I'll have to put those in and see the difference ...see if power remains the same but response quickens up.

Regarding the PDF above, is there another graph showing the "signal"? It references a 50% signal drop going from 36s to 34s.

Great plan. I currently use DCOE 40s with 36mm chokes on my stoker and can't wait for you numbers and thoughts on drivability with the different combos. What's the biggest useable size in 45s? 41 choke? I would start at a 40 choke. Betting that's going to be the best fit but can't recall how much head work has been done. Big breather?

I don't see any issue for concern short of building a very high HP motor.

Cool article. But the "1 in 6" comment goes into "surprising what's true and gets passed around as truth" as well. Not buying that.

I bought the Eibach springs which lower the car relative to the stock springs. I took out the Tokico springs I've had on the car for years. They really lowered the car more than I wanted and had a really stiff ride. Very happy with these Eibachs....Good ride and no problem with large speed bumps. I woundn't use them for a track only car but great for the street. Pic attached.

Yea, I doubled the spring. Wow...strong pedal now. While messing around I sprayed carb cleaner around the throttle shafts and got rpm reductions on 4 or the 6 areas. So, that could be my problem. Fixing that then see what happens.

New issue, I set the idle at around 1100, which is where it idles well..Not too high or low. Engine is happy and sound good. But, coming to a stop or letting it sit and idle it will drop down to around 800 and nose dive and die. Not every time but about 50%. If I set the idle higher then its too high and will pull around corners other low speed situations too fast. Any idea what could cause this? Well, its either not enough air or not enough fuel... One guess is my chokes are too big for low speed operation. Running 36s on my dcoe 40s. Maybe its just borderline to big. At low air speeds the chokes are too big and not enough vacuum. But that really shouldn't effect the idle? Think that's a bad guess.... Why can the car idle fine for 10 minutes at 1100 rpms then die after that? Any help is greatly welcome... Thanks steve

Yea, I'm not too worried about it. To fix that one particular carb I need to take out the throttle shaft. Not too fired up about that. Idle is a bit up and down but I can live with it.

Yea, no bypass screws. These are dcoe 40-18s. It shouldn't make much difference at 1/3 throttle and up correct?

Asking if the differences are significant enough for concern. Really, just concerned about throttle number 1. Thanks for the numbers!

When syncing the carbs how close is "close enough"? With the SK sail gauge I can get the following in kg/hr: Throttle/flow: 1-7 2-5.5 3-6 4-5.5 5-5 6-5.5 I'm just concerned about throttle #1. I may have a slightly bent butterfly or rod on carb #1. Reason for concern?