pparaska

WOW, that's a great price for all of that! I'd make sure he knows the rules for SCCA and NHRA if you plan to go to those tracks/events and compete. Seems these two differ enough to make it impossible to make a cage that works for both sanctioning bodies, if you get to the point of needing a cage in both classes of racing.

Thanks for the pic Terry. I'm just thrashing like mad to just get my car together and the thought of ONE MORE MOD is painful at this point. I'll probably be looking for one of those thermostat housing based coolant fill thingies to handle this problem.

Welcome! I'd love to have a carbon fiber dash, but I'm a bit concerned about how shiny it might be and cause a glare problem. I guess that could be handled a few ways. I really just want something that looks good and if weight were lower that'd be great but ultimate low weight is not a huge concern to me - I think a fiberglass/carbon hybrid dash/console would be killer Any idea how much a console and dash would cost me? BTW, I will be moving this thread to the High Tech Forum in a day or so - it fits better there. Cheers,

Good one Terry. On my Z, the top of the thermostat housing outlet is about at the same leve as the fill for the radiator. I had a silly idea - how about if I jack the front of the car up a bit and then let it run with the cap off, get warm, top the radiator, shut it down, put the cap on, let it draw out of the recirculating overflow bottle? Maybe do that a few times. I just don't want to have to put another filler on the car - but one that fills at the thermostat housing like dedenbear (sp) etc. sells might be a good idea (but not cheap).

You need to find out what U-joints that driveshaft takes. If it's 1350's then there's a U-joint that goes from that to 1310's which is a typical Chevy U-joint size, and it's the one that JTR's driveshaft adapter uses. You'd have to look at the u-joint on the slip yoke for the transmission that you will use to answer what can be done on the front end. I think the T-56 uses a 1350 size on it's yoke.

Mechanical = no wires. The oil pressure gage uses a line (preferably a braided hose, I used copper tubing) from a fitting like on the back of the block near the distributor. It just runs to a fitting on the back of the gage. The mechanical water temp gage has a tube that's attached to the back of the gage that runs to a fitting (included, 1/2" NPT with Autometer) that goes into the intake manifold where a sending unit might go. You just have to be careful you don't kink the lines when installing them. I think on the water temp gage you have to use the full 6 feet of tubing (you can't cut it), so you would probably coil it up under the dash.

Dry Ice. 1) Spread a layer of chopped up dry ice on the floors for a half hour. 2) LIghtly beat on underside of floors with a rubber mallet. Reportedly, the tar sheets will just chip off. 3) Clean up residue with kerosene, paint thinner, etc.

At first I thought it was a joke, but as I read on, I could see it wasn't. I did get a good laugh though! Having dealt with certifiably mentally challenged individuals, I feel sorry for all involved. JD8 may have no clue he's a moron and that what he does is socially unacceptable (3:00 AM parties, etc, etc.). I really mean that. It's amazing how truly ignorant some people can be - I mean they just don't have any idea as to what's o.k. and what's not. I've had first hand experience with people who just have no idea that most of their social behavior is socially unacceptable. Heck, you can even try to explain it to them and they can't understand it. It's sad, because they don't mean to be annoying, etc., they just don't "get it". Then again, JD8 may well know that all the weird stuff he does bothers his neighbors, but JUST DOESN'T CARE. For that, jail time would be oh so appropriate - with JD thrown into the lockdown with a dress on .

For an old 'Mercian car, that doesn't look all that big either. I wonder what the weight is. He's guessing 500hp at 8psi. I bet it's more than that! What a hoot! Killer budget build!

I have Hagerty insurance on my Z. Mind you, they will not insure it if it's used to commute in, race, etc. It's really for weekend showing/fun cruiser cars. They don't mind horribly if you take it to a track every blue moon, but they don't want to insure a race car or a commuter.

Yes, size matters, I mean the long pump is better It does make accessory mounting much easier, and if you are going with a setback placement, there's plenty of room for an electric fan, etc. I like the Stewart water pumps. The stage 2 and higher ones are new redesigned castings for even flow to each bank and have a good impeller and bearings, flow more and use less HP than other pumps. Go to http://www.stewartcomponents.com/chevy.htm for their catalog, if interested. Yes, they are pricey. ($149 for the Stage 2)

One way out of the gage issue is to just use mechanical water temp and oil pressure gages. Yes, unless you go to an expensive European aftermarket gage, you are probably left with using two pods for just these two gages, and losing two other gages in the process (volt or amp meter and clock). I used Autometer gages: oil pressure, water temp, and fuel level (use the old Ford sending unit version and see my web site on how to "calibrate" it to the Datsun sender). I put the oil gage in the left hole, water temp in the middle, and fuel level in the right hole. Lone showed one of those volt meters that plug into the cigarette lighter lately and that's a way to get the volt meter back. I figure what ever stereo I buy will have a digital clock in it anyway, so the loss of the clock is no biggie. By using mechanical oil and water gages, you don't have to worry about the wiring and you get more accurate readings anyway. Just my $.02

Daggon, we stole this thread didn't we Lone Yeah, the Vic Jr may become a base for a Holley Commander 950 TBI setup, or get bungs put in it for port EFI.... But I love the look (and hp potential for a later, large engine) of that Holley Stealth Ram,...

??? Sorry, been away from the net a while. What R200 idea/? was that?

Beautiful! Love to hear how the dyno runs come out!

Wow, your girlfriend has had a very tough life - I've never heard of someone with so many challenges presented to them in life. I can't even imagine what you two must be going through. Very sorry to hear about all this. My families best wishes and prayers go out to you and your family. Best Regards, Pete

Even though many knowledgeable people told me the Vic Jr would work in my application (240Z, 3.70 LSD, 26" tire, Tremec 5spd, 12-677-4 Comp Cams cam, 9.7:1 compression 327) I choose to keep put my Holley hi-rise dual plane (PN 300-36) on to start with. I figured the cam was at the top of the streetable range as far as IVC, overlap, etc. and I wanted to maximize low end torque to begin with and find out where the dual plane started laying down. I have a Vic Jr. too, but I'll probably wait until I do some drag testing, get a road dyno or G-tech, etc. and baseline the car before experimenting with the Vic Jr. Heck, if I go to EFI, it'll all be moot anyway.

Yeah, some of the rice junk I see really makes me wish I had a camera with me. Maybe I'll get a toy "barbie" digital camera to keep in the car .

Anybody know what wavelength laser they are using? The proper filter (from edison, etc.) over a rear mounted fog light might overcome the reflection they are looking for from your exhaust. Last I checked, emitting in the non-visible IR bands wasn't illegal - yet. I agree that in general a well tuned car won't be a gross polluter, but they are playing unfair if they are setting up in areas that REQUIRE acceleration, IMO. If they are going to play unfair, then I would too.

From one of the fogey's - You're Welcome! The thunder of a hopped up NA engine with alot of cubes, at idle, cruise or full tilt is something I don't think anyone can really say is not an adrenaline rush! Heck even my little 327 (DD2000 estimates 380hp) sounded great when I cranked it up after a rebuild yesterday!

I'm wondering if the Holley Commander 950 TBI setup might bolt right onto a 4 barrel L6 manifold. You might want to hit their site and give them a call.

It's a very tight radius donut of muffler tubing. It's used for tight curves in an exhaust system. It will be restrictive if too long, but I only needed 45 degrees or less in one point.

Vizard's book on how to port SBC heads has some plans in it. Good book if you want to learn about port flow, porting, etc.

teamcruz, if we all had the same opinions, it'd be awful boring - we'd all be driving the same car with all the same mods for one!

And faster ramps mean less difference between seat duration and 0.050" duration. What that means is more area under the curve (more fuel/air per timing event). And that means with the same seat timing you get more power. Seat timing, in particular Intake Valve Closing point, dictates dynamic compression ratio, and therefore low speed response and torque. There's a rule of thumb that a solid flat tappet cam needs 8-10 more degrees of 0.050" duration to make it comparable to a hydraulic flat tappet. And the faster ramps are the reason. But all this is only true if the solid cam really does have faster ramps. The point is that they can have faster ramps and a cam grinder can take that opportunity to make a cam with less difference between seat and 0.050" duration differences with a solid flat than a hydraulic. And as was pointed out, this allows more lift as well. Of course, spring pressures must go up to compensate, as well as more room before they coil bind. That's probably what the head maker meant but "solid lifter ready". I LOVE the sound of a bit of clattering in a solid cam. But if I move to a knock sensor system some day, I'll have to move up to a hydraulic roller - with the new lighter lifters and a rev kit possibly. Talk about a pile of money.