pparaska

DrewZ has that on his Z.

quote: Originally posted by kc6wfs: What problems do you gurus forsee? Traction!

Van (Two40ZMuscle) was telling me Pierre was thinking about offering it as a kit. Just don't call Pierre and happen to mention the V8 word - he doesn't approve, so I hear.

Comp Cams and others make "lift rule" cams that have fast ramps, a good amount of duration, and low lift to be able to run in certain racing classes. Many times these cams have a LSA of 106. I'd think a custom cam with the lobes that these cams use on a wider LSA might be the ticket here?

Thanks Grump! I love all these references. Especially the ones with double integrals .

Looks awesome in there! That sure was a bunch of welding on the bellhousing! Whew!

You sure the timing mark is correct? Vacuum leak maybe?

Terry, I'm very interested in seeing these pictures - but the site keeps timing out on me - can you email some to me?

Terry, it looks great - nice touch!

Looks great! Is that a Tremec 5sp I see? The shifter looks familiar (I have one in my Z).

Warren, I think that there's a limit to how well this works. At low speed, yes, the dynamic compression can be low enough for a high static compression engine if the cam overlap is large. But then the dynamic compression goes up at higher rpm, and you might get high rpm detonation. Well, this is the way I understand it anyway.

I got some drawings, etc. from a guy on the IZCC list. He of course, wants to be sure people know that his design is not certified by an engineer and that the plans are for use "at your own risk". I won't say that I would or would not use the plans to stay out of legal trouble as well. But they are on my site : http://members.home.net/pparaska/rotisserie.htm Links at the top of that page.

John, Ross, I think what you see when a spring sags is CREEP (to change shape permanently from prolonged stress or exposure to high temperatures). Or someone using grinding tools or a torch and taking the temper out of the steel so that it DOES go plastic locally. I agree with John, any good spring design will have a good factor of safety on shear stress so as to stay in the elastic region.

Using CHP's numbers: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/editorial/article_popup.jsp?id=42119 469 hp @ 6500 433 ft lb @ 5000 I think it's cam limited (lift mostly) at this point. The heads flow better at large lifts (lower lifts also) and you need more duration and lift to get the power up. But then how streetable will it be? I ran the 12-679-4 290/296adv 252/260@.050 .540/.558" solid extreme flat tapet cam on this engine (with Canfields) and it put out 480 hp @6500 426 ft lb @5000 It still had 304 ft lbs at 3000, 281 ft lbs at 2500. I'd be concerned about streetability. I'd imagine with a cam with that duration and LSA, the idle vacuum would be below 10 psi.

Jason, I used the cam lobe specs from Comp Cams for the 280-1 and 285-1 lobes: http://www.compcams.com/catalog/232.html and flow numbers for ported L98s from here: http://personal.mia.bellsouth.net/clt/m/g/mgervin/chp/flowchrt.htm I ran this with your setup and large tube headers through mufflers in DD2000 and got: 441 hp @ 6500 421 lbft @ 4500 Very close to Grumpy's numbers. I agree with Mike C. Those heads even with the best porting probably will be very hard to get past 450hp. Not to be concerned, I'd think - that's still going to be fun in a light little 240Z!

quote: Originally posted by DavyZ: The guy that runs the place has a Z project and used to post here as Takman57. Also, Long (Dankinzle) is a long time member and frequent poster and is formally affiliated with the shop as well. I have heard nothing bad about them, and they even offered HybridZ discounts last year on header coating. If memory serves me correctly, they had some kind of formal mention in CarCraft or Hot Rod regarding coatings--about 1 year ago (?) Good stuff. Davy Davy, I don't think this is correct. Tech Line Coatings has been around for a long time. Many of the ceramic coating places get their materials from them, from what I've heard. Tony's place probably does as well. I sent Tony a message a month or so ago (email) but never heard back. Is his business still going?

Great Stuff, Grumpy! BTW, I put together an Excel (office 2000) spreadsheet for the equations for V/P index (covered at http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm ) and put it up on my site. I checked it against their numbers and got their results. It's here on my site (excel file).

The tire overall diameter will be different, but the 245 is 245mm of section width (widest measurement at sidewalls).

Yes, I'm running an 8 inch spring with the perch above the rim lip. 149mm backspacing with 1/2" of rotor hat thickness.

Check out the Wheels and Tires link on my home page - I show how 17x9s and 255/45-17s are the MAX with coilovers and a stock fender lip. I can't see how you'd fit anything wider, even if you went to an 18" wheel, because the fender well is too small a radius and starts turning in towards the center of the car not far above the fender lip. I agree a 15" sounds like a better solution for a bit of tire wrinkle.

Wow, rickey, that does sound expensive - but nice! Craig, the SS tubing was a bit harder to bend, but not much. The real problem is that it doesn't conform easily on the flared ends to the male flare in the fitting you screw it into. I had to REALLY crank down on the fittings to get all the weeping to stop, and this is using lines that were flared perfectly on a machine by Classic Tube. If I were to do this all over, I'd just do it all in ERM steel tubing like the factory did and powder coat the stuff silver. The SS looks nice though.

quote: Originally posted by johnc: > If you plastically deform the spring (take it > past yeild) If you do that to a suspension spring, chances are your entire car (and possibly you) has been plastically deformed as a result of the accident that occured right after you deformed the spring. Agreed, John A spring will be a good bit stronger than what the suspension is mounted to

Thanks for posting that - that site was posted here a year ago or so and it was great to visit it again. I'm not into hero worship, but this guy is definitely at the top of my hero list. Anybody that can self-teach themselves that level of craftsmanship deserves a great amount of respect. And what a beautiful car to used those talents on! Oops, my keyboard is slippery now...

Another alternative is to just measure the length of each line and order lines in those lengths with the fittings installed and ends flared and bend them yourself to match the originals or take into account your mods. I did just this with Classic Tube. Make darned sure you let them know it's for a Nissan and that the fittings should not have a "nose" on them (unthreaded portion by the flared end). The ISO fittings have this nose and they have to turn that off on a lathe before installation. If you don't have that removed you have very few threads engaged when they go into the OE fittings on the car.

Looks like a nice toy for a poser. I don't even like street rods with it. It takes it again into the realm of cool looks that aren't functional for me. Ride around at a reasonable ride height and get to the show/cruiseplace and "lower" your ride. No thanks, not for me. JMO,