pparaska

I made a copy of the JTR mount (bent it up in a shop press). If you are getting the T-5 from a Camaro or Firebird, it will be set up to be tilted 15 degrees, to tilt the shifter to the driver's side (left side) of the tunnel. This is how it will be mounted if you are using the Camaro/Firebird T-5 bellhousing. If you are using a "straight-up" bellhousing for a standard small block Chevy, then the trans will not be tilted. The difference is important, as if you use the Camaro/Firebird bellhousing, the rear pad to bolt the rear mount to will be horizontal, and the JTR mount can be used. If you use a "straight-up" bellhousing, then the mount pad will be tilted 15 degrees, with the left bolt hole higher than the right hole. I used a straight up bellhousing from Tilton/Sonic. This left my mounting pad tilted to the horizontal. I found that a polyurethane mount (which I suggest as the stock mount is not interlocking) sat on the JTR mount in such a way that it touched the edge of the left "hump" in the JTR mount, and the lower middle portion of the JTR mount. I made up a small spacer to fit over the bolt in the middle of the polyurethane mount and reach down to the corner of the JTR mount that is at the side of the middle part of the JTR mount as it rises to make the "hump" on the left. I drilled a hole in the JTR mount in this area and ran the bolt through there.

Yep - I screwed up - the first gasket is for a LS1 - my bad - I'll edit the original post. Yep, the 1134 will do it for you.

There's was 0.026" (compressed) GM head gasket that would work well with .016" deck height (below deck). Info: http://www.jrgmparts.com/GM_Performance_Parts/GM_Parts_Catalog/GM_Engine_Components/GM_Small_Block_Crate_Engine_Co/Head_Gaskets_Bolts_GM_Chevy_Sm/head_gaskets_bolts_gm_chevy_sm.html There is probably an alternative...Here's a Victor Reinz gasket that's 0.025" thick: http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=20108 You can probably get this gasket elsewhere - I'm not too happy with the service from these guys as of late. Mr. Gasket also a .028" gasket, no warning about using on AL heads, but that would work for you too - PN 1134 See the 138th page of this pdf (page 136 printed on page) : http://go.mrgasket.com/newproducts/CAT_PDF/74220G.PDF

Glad you found it Bill. BTW, the Rattler as an added benefit - it's a conversation starter. Pull into a local cruise in, turn off the engine and it "rattles" as the engine stops. Then people will come over and let you know there's something rattling when you stop the engine. .

I fully agree with your choice of the cam (XS274) - I ran that cam with 461 pocket ported heads in my 327 (9.7:1) and it was streetable - but more would have been too much. To me, the old Magnum grinds are too slow for what you get. I never had a problem with very comparable springs too. You need a bit of spring with the Xtreme cams, especially if you are going to rev it. I think 7K will be the limit, and you need to make sure your oiling and valvetrain are very good. Personally, I'd go for a 6" rod or more and a piston to work with those - the 5.7" rod 327 pistons are long and heavy - not what you want for a high revving engine! Definitely research the issue of zinc in the oil. EOS or Comp Cam's additive is a great idea, or some of the racing oils that have enough zinc in them. It's another reason to do a roller (next time ). A 650 double pumper carb will be SO MUCH better with this setup. I had a 750 vac sec on my 327 and went to the 650 DP and the difference was incredible. The only vehicle I'd put a vac sec carb on would be a big heavy car or truck. All a vac sec carb does is replace your brain - you're smart enough not to dump all 4 barrels opened at 1500 rpm, so you don't need a vac sec carb. The hit you get from that extra pump is too much fun to give up!!!

This place has been around forever! I don't know if it's the same guy that ran it 20yrs ago, but that guy knew his stuff! http://www.tidewaterz.com/

When I bought my Tremec TR-3550 (weak version of TKO 5spd) I had darkhorseperformance build it with an old style Ford input shaft, which was a little shorter than the GM input shaft. It's a 10 spline, 1-1/16" shaft. It came with a pilot bushing that fit into the larger more rearward machined hole in the back of the chevy crankshaft. McLeod makes a bearing version of that bushing. Using a McLeod hydraulic TO bearing, I needed to space the trans back from the bellhousing about 1/8" using a plate I made. Using this trans and TO bearing is documented here: http://alteredz.com/TremecInfo.htm

rudy - I learned my E-manners before HybridZ - only because I'm older and had been on the internet since 91 - back before the WWW, in the land of email and gophering... But I still mis-step. Only human I guess. I think a great rule of thumb is to imagine the person(s) you are type a message to are as close as the screen you are looking at. A lot of flames would be abated if we all followed that rule. And I know I would have had fewer problems if I always followed this too.

I have for a long time worked with officers in the US Navy. I can tell you that many of them could not complete a sentence without the S or F word used at least once. So I'm pretty much used to it. I try not to use that kind of language around my kids, if in a meeting, etc. but I let them out in casual presence of my colleagues sometimes. I apologize if I offend anyone with my language or actions here. Please PM me if you have a problem with my language or behavior here.

Funny you mention that, as I was wondering if the Power Plus (Professional Products) Air Gap was a decent way to go. I want to try a dual plane, since the overlap I'm running on the existing cam is a bit hairy (I had Vizard spec it for me too) and I needed more low end response at cruise than it was giving me with the Victor JR. I looked ALL OVER the internet, and for some reason only thought to look at David's site after a bit of looking. There was the answer - all those manifolds are about the same. As it is, the Edelbrock version is about $210 (heard the price was going up) and you can get the Professional Products version PN 52026 that David tested for about $144 + shipping from CNC-Motorsports. That's the way I'm going to go.

Zerrari GTO - Want to take a shot at writing an new FAQ type thread on that?

And what does this mean, Clifton? Without the rebel guest, the party is fun for more people. What are you trying to say here, Clifton? If you think the only place that someone in authority over you deserves respect is in school, you will probably have a tough time of it in life. That situation happens in the work place, out on the road, just about everywhere. It's a strange concept to some, but respect for authority is a method of self-preservation or at least a method to lower the problems in your life. I and the other admins DO have authority over the members here - it's a simple fact. It's something that we don't like to often point out to the members as it sets up an uncomfortable situation. But when rebels feel that they can ignore this fact and make public posts against the admin's actions, they bring the topic to the attention of everyone. It's happening more and more in the past few years, and it's been getting to be more of an issue as of late. So if I or the other admins expect some respect because we're "in power" we are asking too much? How about if we just don't moderate the forums and let all the flamers and spammers just run over the site unfettered. Maybe we'd get some respect after we let that happen? What if the police all quit doing their jobs and tried not to catch all the murderers and rapists - I bet you might respect what they do (except for victimizing citizens with speed traps, etc.) more if you thought about what they do every day. Do you have a problem with authority in general? Everyone deserves respect if they act like mature human beings. That's how I go through life. They get more if they are nice, helpful, etc. They get less when they act like a rebel without a real cause, if they go against any authority just because they don't like any authority. This, I would think is really simple and obvious, but some just don't get it and it's why I wrote what I did: If someone acts like a rebel against the hosts at a party they will get unwelcome attention from the hosts. For the simple fact that SOMEONE has authority in that situation, they deserve to be shown a bit more respect in public, no matter how much you dislike them or dislike that they have respect. If you instead show disrespect to them in public, then you should expect some kind of reaction that you probably won't like in the end, as well as the other people at the party glancing sideways at you and thinking you are the fool, or they might even come over and tell you to knock it off. If someone here acts like a child that needs parenting, we are inclined to take on the parenting role - that's our duty. But for the VAST majority of members, we don't have to do that and we just act like gracious party hosts and try to be helpful as much as we can. So, no, we admins don't always talk to guests as if we are parents. We only do that if we need to fix things if a rule was broken. Do you really think that the admins talk down to all the guests that much? Out of my 5000+ posts, I can guarantee you that most of them were either me asking a question, answering one, or throwing out a bit of humor. Up until a few years ago, we had basically nothing to do as far as "parenting".

Note that the ones listed on ThermalTechCoatings' site as being angle plug, D-port, (T8019 and T8019C) are oval port, and won't seal well on the D-port heads. http://www.thermaltechcoatings.com/images/DCP_2891.JPG I've been there and done that. In fact, if you search, you'll find my thread on it, and why I ended up buying the CC5s from JTR, but specified D-Port when I ordered. Note that they are generally cheaper from JTR than from Sanderson as well. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103407&highlight=d-port+headers I'd love to find a 1-3/4" long tube, shortie, or block hugger header that would work with angle plugs and D-port and fit in the JTR position!

Calgary - you sure do get to use the paddle! - just do it in a PM! LoL Yes, I think the members needed to read that rant. We've had a spate of problems with this lately and I wanted to make it completely clear what the social setting is at HybridZ.

woldson - it's a valid question. I'm not really referring to you. I didn't take offense at your initial post.

Word to the wise: It seems there are several members, past, present and future, who don't understand the cold hard facts of life: - HybridZ.org is a private party that you can come and join without invitation, and stay as long as you don't cause trouble or tick off the hosts. - HybridZ.org user status is not a right. It's a priviledge. - The admins/moderators (referred to as admins from here on) have power to show the door to people that don't follow the rules or become a problem too often - they can ban you from the site. Yes, you can re-register, but we will probably out-last you on that little game. If you don't like how the admins are acting at the party that they are throwing (i.e., allowing you to come to HybridZ and post), you can leave or you can PM or email them and see if you can politely explain your complaint. That way, you are much more likely to get them to listen to your complaint and possibly apologize and/or rectify the situation if they agree they should have dealt with something another way. But if you post about the admins disparagingly on the forums, you will look like the rebel that wants to be shown off the island. If you weren't taught to respect authority (whether you agree with the authority figure or not), then we really don't care if we have to teach you here. This is NOT a democracy. Consider this social situation: If you make a scene in public on the forum, you will be shown the door. Why the heck would we want you at our private party if you call us out in front of everybody? Do you think publicly slamming the admins is going to HELP your situation? I guess you may get some kind of satisfaction if someone posts and agrees with you. If that's what you are looking for, then you are just a grand-standing rebel, and we certainly don't want you here. It's the admin's party and you probably aren't going to continue to be welcome if you cause a fuss about them in public, just like if you flame one of their guests. Sure, it doesn't seem fair that the admins can smack you down for your speaking your mind, but instead of making it public (what good will that do but get others to become the focus of scrutiny?), be tactful and mature and do it IN PRIVATE. In private, there can be a peaceful resolution. But when you make it public, you cause the admins to have to make a decision about whether you are welcome at the party or not. It doesn't matter if the admin was wrong or right in how many people's eyes. It's the admin's party. Don't give us the "that's not fair!" BS - we will just tell you life isn't fair and HybridZ is not a democracy, it's a dictatorship. Learn to live with those cold hard facts. As always, put yourself in the shoes of the admin when you think about publicly denigrating them. Sure, they should be above retaliation. But why should they bother with you after you do that? Why should they allow you to stay at their party? They have no reason to want you to stay after that, since you've now publicly challenged them. You've at this point made an uncomfortable scene. I can guarantee you that more people will be against you than for you after that. Sure, you may get some who take your side, but then you've started the battle that must be dealt with. Many admins won't have time for that and decide that your wonderous tech knowledge is not worth the price of your rebel ways and they will probably ban you if you make it a big scene, or make a few small scenes. Lecture concluded.

The plug he's referring to is on th head deck or just behind that surface, near the back of the block on the odd numbered bank side. The 327 block I had in my car had just a cup plug hole there - no threads. Later blocks where threaded to use an NPT plug (hex key type). I had to fix that on the 327 when the shop just tapped a cup plug in there and it leaked just a bit. I put a new cup plug in with JB weld. That one under the rear main cap is important too - I agree! Easy to see its there too - it's just an inch or so below the cap mating surface.

My experience with that leak is that you have to pull the head to be able to stop the leak. I know what plug you are talking about. The OLD SBCs had a cup plug in that hole, the newer blocks have a screw in plug. The hole is to cover up where an oil galley coming up from the filter was drilled into the block casting. Pull the head, remove plug (not always easy), clean the hole, and insert new or good plug with some non-hardening sealer. I had that happen once. It sucks to have everything in the car and have to pull the head to fix that leak. I now pressurize the oil system on the stand, and get oil coming out of each pushrod (cranking the engine over a bit) to see all the rockers get lube AND make sure that plug and the galley plugs in the rear of the block, and the one above the filter pad don't leak. Sorry to give you the bad news. Give the shop some grief over it.

http://alteredz.com/wheelstires.htm

Well, I have been accused of going too far down the page selecting cams. However, a discussion of using .050" duration versus .004" or .006" (whatever the manufacturer uses for "advertised") on a hydraulic cam comes into play. With the differing lobe intensities out there, you could have a significant difference in .004" duration (and overlap) with two cams having the same or nearly the same .050" duration. The compcams High energy/Magnum lobes versus the Xtreme lobes show that. If you take the two High Energy and Xtreme lobes that have 218 .050" duration and put them on a both the intake and exhaust with a 110 LSA, here is a comparison: HIGH ENERGY Grind: 12-210-2 268H Advertised Duration (.006"): 268 268 0.050" Duration: 218 218 Lift: .454 .454 LSA: 110° Grind Number CS 268H-10 Valve Timing At 0.006 Open Close Intake 28 60 Exhaust 68 20 (Overlap at .006" is 48 degrees) These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 106 Intake CL XTREME 262 lobes on both Intake and Exhaust (custom grind) Advertised Duration (.006") 262 262 0.050" duration: 218 218 Lift: .462 .462 LSA 110 Valve Timing At 0.006 Open Close Intake 25 57 Exhaust 65 17 (overlap at .006" is 42 degrees) These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 106 Intake CL That's 6 degrees difference in overlap at the same "seat" timing point of .006". I'm guessing this will have a noticeable difference in low end performance, not insignificant anyway. Just trying to point out why I don't like to depend on .050" timing comparisons when talking about low end performance, which is very much a function of overlap (using seat timing is more realistic than .050", according to Vizard and others). Of course, I could be all wrong too!

O.k. I'll spoon feed you. But seriously, just look at the "Similar Threads" box at the bottom of the page for your thread. This one in particular answers your question: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91613 Hell, that was even easier than searching!

I do as well. I usually chuckle when reading Chevytalk.com and seeing guys asking if the Xtreme 262 cam is too big for their 350! LoL! I think 225 @ .050 and 270 advertised duration is the bottom of the barrel for any 350 or larger engine. Below that it is just too small. 110 LSA is the max I'd run on a 350. Personally, I'd rather find "too radical" and then back off a bit on a cam than go too conservative.

The biggest problem with that old "151" cam was the incredibly long seat timing. Depending on who you listen to, it was anywhere from 280 to 306 degrees "seat timing" duration. I had one in a 327 with 10:1 SCR and it was a freaking dog. The overlap (seat timing overlap is what really matters IMO) was very large for such a low lift/ low .050 duration. So it had NO low end torque. Came on at 3000 rpm or so like gangbusters though . The newer grinds are much better with more hydraulic intensity for the same 0.050" duration and more lift. I wouldn't put a "151" cam (or copy) in anything, even a restored corvette with a 350/350 engine. I'd put in something with some lope, but a newer, higher intensity design. Probably a 280ish seat timing duration cam with 225 or so .050 duration.

Yep, that was from Vizard's article: http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=-2026144213 Definitely talking about overlap and duration at seat timing, not .050" tappet lift. 251 duration (seat timing) is damned mild in my opinion. I'd be looking at a 262 or 268 duration cam, probably 110 LSA. That's just off the top of my head though!

Took a bit of googling, but here ya go: http://cms.firehouse.com/content/article/article.jsp?sectionId=45&id=32289