george.bryant

Yes got all that thank you. What can you tell me on dizzy timing?

yeah thats wht the book says, but how does that make sure that everythings set right? "You want to use the dot whose number sorresponds to the hole that has the camshaft alignment dowel in it." what do you mean by this? i lined up the bright link with the number 3 dot as its the only one that i could set it up with and have the cam sprocket go onto the cam without trouble. i dont understand this dowel stuff tho

Ok!!! I finally got it off, after a shitload of CRC (WD40), a whole small can of it infact! And CRC gasket remover in the seam between the front cover and block. (I was very carefull not to get it near my near head gasket). Then about 10 mins later and alot of baking in the sun (its was 28 celcius here when i was doing it) i gave the four corners a whack with a hammer and it finally came lose!! Then I cleaned all of the bits that came off with degreaser for a good hour. They came up really nice! While the degreaser was doing it's job I started working on the tensionner, chain and getting it the cam sprocket back on the cam (with the chain on it). Now i'm a bit paranoid that in the whole process of getting the crankshaft pulley bolt out, that I moved it from TDC. My cam is set to how it was when I took the head off. I adjusted the crank to back to what should have been TDC on #1. Then I put the cam sprocket with chain back onto the cam. Was that the correct thing to do? I have "How to Modify Datsun & Nissan Motors" and a Skyline FSM (doesnt actually cover the L20ET though, only the L20 (carb) and L24E. I'm pretty sure I set the timing correct in that perspective but im not sure. I tried going by the literature that I have. Someone PLEASE help me out, PM me if you dont feel like writing a reply to this. How do I know that the cam is alligned with the crankshaft correctly? If the timings all messed up when I get it running again will it be a huge mission to correct it? ;etc etc Regards, George

Ok, im stuck with the front cover. it wont budge. i have the sump bolts out in front of the crossmember, do I need to get all of the sump bolts out?

A dude from Skylines Australia (thread is here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=100923) has been helping me. I'm pretty clued up on it all now and guess theres nothing i can really do until I get my hands on a claw style puller? I'm going to try and rent one from my local Handi-Hire. what should i use? I shouldved listened to you guys and taken the chain off the way i did in the first place..

Hey guys i've been going through the annoying process of chaing my headgasket incase you didnt know. Everything has gone good except for something that I was told has a pretty high chance of happening... The timing chain slipped a tooth and i couldnt get the cam sprocket to fit to the cam properly as the chain wasnt allowing me enough slack. I got annoyed so i checked my chain wedge and it was a bit lose. Next thing I know i'm like 3 links shorter...then more...Then the tensioner had came lose and the arc or the chain wasnt there I knew straight away that the chain had slipped so I just let it. Its being help up again now but it fairly short compared to before. Obviously I have the get the front cover off and get everything realigned. What exactly needs to be done to remove it? At the moment my radiator, distributor and oil pump are still attached so I'll take them off, the fan is also attached so how do I go about getting it off. WIll the crank pulley be in the way, it looks to me astho it will be. How do i remedy this? Regards, George

Ok, the worst that could happen so far has and the timing chain slipped a tooth, then the wedge cam lose so i took it out cause there wasnt much else i could do. Then the chain kinda fell a bit and yeah.... How do I get the front cover off etc guys? I'll go get my radiator out now and hopefully when i get back someone will have given my nice front cover uninstallation instructions

I'm working on this at the moment Nick. One I finish reading about it i'll tell ya all about it

i got head off easy. wedge worked a treat and it seems secure. head is in the shop getting surfaced.

You cant buy the chain wedge in New Zealand, well not that I can find. I got a wedge of wood that worked perfect

ok, i turned the motor over so that that the bright link in the chain was facing a one of the three dimples on the cam sprocket, It ended up matching up with #3, the cam lobes are sitting in the position as showed in the manual. Is this correct? I was going to mark the chain and gear aswell. but i was thinking that when i put the gear back on i could just match the chain upto dimple #1??

ACtually my service manual doesnt cover it which sucks and it doesnt have any turbo stuff. can you scan some more pages?

OMG! I could of looked in my R30 FSM!! Thanks for that so much, so easy aye! I didnt understand that lining up of the bright link in the chain with that cam gear number but now i do! thankkks

can i find TDC with a compression tester?

How do I find TDC on my L6 on cyl #1? I'm in the process of removed the head to replace gasket, I've gottem as far as to getting manifolds off and the rocker cover. Now i need to get the cam gear off. On ZCAR.COM i asked and got the following reply for how the get the cam gear off etc, is it correct? I still dont understand all this stuff with dimples on the cam gear and such. Can someone please put it in noobie mechanic langauge? Procure the right tools for the job * Timing Chain wedge - You will need to properly address the issue of the chain before you do anything else. Unless you plan on doing the chain replacement at this time, which I don't think thats the plan, anyways ? *** Remember the wedge must fit snuggly, firmly even if you have'ta hammer it down in there, the tighter the better. * 27 mm socket, for the crankshaft dampener pulley bolt Which will allow you to manually turn over the crank, place crank @ TDC, oppose crankshaft & camshaft when you loosen the cam sprocket bolt. A necessity for the DIY Z mech. Prerequisites: * Engine / Cylinder head are bone cold ! * All eng. coolant, fuel, vacuum, electrical connections have been drained, plugged, disconnected or removed * Intake/ exhaust manifold removed , however, they can be left on but will add to the difficulty upon reassembly OK here Freakin Goes ! # Freaking one ! FIND TDC OF #1 CYL. ----- on compression stroke ------- Reference * #1 piston reaches the top of it's travel, as viewed by a dial indicator, by eye and or a mechanical device to transfer the linear motion. * Cam lobe positions away from rockers and on their heels * Crankshaft dampener pulley wheel notch alignment to the "O" indicator bolted or fixed to the front cover. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ # freaking two Visually inspect the timing chain for wear or stretch, check that the notch on the camshaft sprocket hub & ther groove on the camshaft thrust plate are in alignment. To determine if the cam timing has become retarded due to wear in the chain. The groove is above and to the left of the notch the chain has stretched and corrections can be made upon reassembly by advancing to the next higher dowel, if the cam timing can not be corrected in the #3 position the chain must be replaced as it will only continue to wear Do you know where these are? ** Take NOTE *** Of the # of the dowel pin @ the 12:00 position 1 - 2 - or - 3 Find the corresponding numbered dimple on outer circumference of the camshaft sprocket. Mark the adjacent chain link w/ paint white or yellow after thouroughly washing w/ mineral spirits or laq. thinner. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ # Freaking 3 Bust loose the 19 mm camshaft sprocket bolt, by opposing w/ 27mm socket & breaker bar on Crankshaft dampener pulley bolt. ** DO NOT REMOVE IT *** just break the torque on it. *** Realigning the timing marks on Crankshaft Dampener Pulley w/ noted crank angle indicator as before by rotating the crank slightly CW. This will or "should" theoretically set the #1 cylinder @ TDC on compression stroke. * Verify that your Crankshaft is reset @ #1 TDC & Camshaft timing is correctly marked. *Now "FIRMLY"wedge the tool in between the chain tensioner and the tension side of the chain. *Now fully remove the camshaft sprocket bolt w/ lockwasher and plain washer. ** Careful ** DO NOT DROP THESE INTO THE OPEN FRONT COVER ** * Carefully walk the sprocket off w/ chain in hand. Extract the sprocket, pile the chain carefully down inside the cavity bewteen the chain guides. *** Take special care protect the open front cover from foreign object debris *** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ # Freaking 4 * Loosen and remove the two 6 mm cylinder head bolts threading down and into the front cover. * Clean oil sludge and crud from internal wrenching bolt heads to provide adequate bearing. Slacken head bolts in reverse order of the specified tightening sequence ( * ) in half turn increments until fully loose. ( * ) Starting at extreme ends and working toward the center, alternating at each end. * Extract all 14 head bolts, 5 long and 9 short noting their positions. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ *** # Freaking 5 *** * Lift head off of engine block, making sure the heater core inlet hose has been disconnected......obviously huh? ** Remember not to set the head assy. down on the combustion surface, there are protruding valves on #2 an #3. Use wooden blocks or 2x4 pieces. from (http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=628330&t=628051)

ive just had a pain in the *** from my radiator having the same kinda contamination in it. blown gasket in my car i know that for a fact. oil was leaking into the water galleys from a weird crack in the gasket and was making its way out between the block and head very slowly and also into the radiator. the stuff in ur little cup looks exactly the same as mine! one day mine was the nice green of ethenal glycol (is taht what it is) and then the next day the car was overheating and all sorts of crap and the radiator water and overflow bottle were full of yummy looking brown weird smelling water.

ok get this! I got out and start doing some more work...i went to drain the radiator (that is only about 4 months new with a new bung) and my screw-drvier stripped the bung!! The only thing I can think of to do, is to drill through it, pull it out and replace it with a more durable bung. God how annoying.

cheeres alot guys, i jsuyt went out and bought some extension bars and a torque wrench, time to go pull those manifolds off!!

i dnt see how it would be that different apart from the fact your motor is 2.8 litre and not 2.0 and i have a turbo and you dont? lol, what is FSM anyway. id like to see waht ur talking about.

yeah i know the one, red dr30

Can you help me through setting the timing again?

I remember needing a bit of wood or something to hold the chain up whent the head is off. can someone please show me a photo or a diagram of what i need to make

How do I remove the cam chain from the cam gear? I'm taking my head off my motor to change the head gasket and jsut realised i have no idea.

Hey guys, what tools do i need to remove the inlet and exahust manifold from my L20? I know this is a weird question but i just want to get everything before i start.

larger hole very true! With that spare head i had, I was thinking instead of wasting money on a crack test (NZD$40). I would just get it shaved a bit. How much should I do, what is the min? Is it ness to get a check? Also what should i do in terms of valves, springs, lifters; etc ?? My budget is low. oh! ive been personal with old Paul Newman a few too many times lately for my liking (i have a '83 KHR30 Skyline, not a Z)